Advice about 1.5 ohms

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foe1one

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May 17, 2011
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So I'm wanting to make a 3x AA box mod with a 3 ml bottle and recessed atomizer connection with drip shield and tubing etc etc. to make a compact bottom feeder. The question I have is, what precautions do I need to take with my build to make sure I don't burn anything out using 1.5ohm 306 atomizers with a 14500? Also, I want to use as small a switch as possible.
 

Worldgod

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Mar 31, 2011
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You need to use a switch rated for around 3 amps. Running 1.5ohm you will be drawing between 2.4 and 2.8 amps. (3.7-4.2v). You should not have any other problems with burning anything out imo.

That being said, I think you might have a hard time having a recessed atty connection and bottom feeder as you have to be able to have a feeder tube under the atty connection which will make it stick up that much more.
 

xLowEndx

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Everything Worldgod said was true. Also,

If you are using any kind of atty or carto that is below 2.0 ohms you should be using an IMR 3.7v battery. (IMO the red AW brand are the best) They are not protected but are made up of safe chemistry. These can easily handle the current that our low ohmed atties want.
 

CraigHB

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You pretty much have to use an IMR batt for resistance that low because the protection circuitry will kick-in on a regular ICO batt. The IMR batts use a "safer" chemistry, but they are not perfectly safe. They can vent if shorted or over-charged just like any other Li-Ion batt, just not as easily. It's a good idea to add short circuit protection. A PTC fuse is a quick and easy way to do that. With the unprotected IMRs, use a good charger and check terminal voltage. If they are finishing up more than a few hundredths over 4.2V, get a new charger.
 

xLowEndx

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You pretty much have to use an IMR batt for resistance that low because the protection circuitry will kick-in on a regular ICO batt. The IMR batts use a "safer" chemistry, but they are not perfectly safe. They can vent if shorted or over-charged just like any other Li-Ion batt, just not as easily. It's a good idea to add short circuit protection. A PTC fuse is a quick and easy way to do that. With the unprotected IMRs, use a good charger and check terminal voltage. If they are finishing up more than a few hundredths over 4.2V, get a new charger.

Where is the best place to put one of these PTC fuses in our circuits? After the on/off switch? Anywhere?
 

xLowEndx

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As close to battery positive or negative as practical. That way, you protect the battery from faults in as much of the wiring and circuitry as possible. Conventionally, you would put it on battery positive, but functionally, it doesn't matter.

Very interesting, never heard of these until today.
 

CraigHB

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They haven't been around as long as other electronic components. They were invented in the 1970's, but didn't become inexpensive enough and practical in terms of performance for most applications until the 1990's. It's a great device and I've used them in several different projects (not just e-cig mods). Way better than a traditional fuse since they automatically reset. They're available in a wide range of trip currents from tens of mA to tens of Amps. The one I linked to has a hold current of 3A and trip current of 6A which is good for an IMR 14500.
 

xLowEndx

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They haven't been around as long as other electronic components. They were invented in the 1970's, but didn't become inexpensive enough and practical in terms of performance for most applications until the 1990's. It's a great device and I've used them in several different projects (not just e-cig mods). Way better than a traditional fuse since they automatically reset. They're available in a wide range of trip currents from tens of mA to tens of Amps. The one I linked to has a hold current of 3A and trip current of 6A which is good for an IMR 14500.

I saw that, it's kinda large though isn't it? 3cm x 3cm (24.9mm x 30mm) almost.
 

CraigHB

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Yea, that'a a little big, didn't notice that, This one is a lot smaller, about half the size. Two of the dimensions are lead length so that's kind of immaterial. You can trim the leads as required. The part itself a 12mm circle. I usually use the SMD ones (surface mount on a PCB) which are much smaller, only a few mm in length and width. Don't know why the leaded ones are so much bigger.
 
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