Aerotank NON reading on VTR

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edyle

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Tried the extension. No dice.

Also,

I see a very small gap between the base of the aerotank and the main body. I can't tighten it any further, at least not with regular finger force. Is that normal?

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k295/Kurt_Cob/54153dc7-7aad-4999-a766-25d075dcd2a6_zps5e97edcc.jpg

I am more interested in seeing the bottom of the aerotank showing the center pin.

I bet the center pin on the aerotank is slightly up inside the 510 threading and that would be why it is not making contact with the center pin on the vtr.
 

Lurch

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I had the same problem on my Tesla. Was getting real low Ohms readings and unit won't fire, then would read "short." If I snuck up on it would work; I left the Aero tank about 2 twists from being all the way on, fired and worked. Used that way for a few hits, then started slowly tightening down about 1/8 turn after each hit. It would eventually work while properly secured.

I went back to the B&M where I got the stuff. We studied and examined it and couldn't figure it out. Finally we replaced the base on the Aero tank and it worked fine!! Maybe the tolerances are a little off on the base of the units????
 

edyle

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CAM00476_zps8vkcm26b.jpg

That round circle in the middle is the center pin on the tank.

It needs to make contact with the center pin on the battery side.

If you have one of those common 510/ego adapters, put it on the tank, and try the tank on the vv3; if it works then try it on the vtr; if it doesn't work then the center pin on the vtr side needs to get raised up.
 

edyle

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It does work on the vv3, with or without the adapter. Just doesn't work with the vtr.

How do I raise the center pin?

ya; I know it works on the vv3; the reason for trying the adapter is diagnotics.

To raise the center pin try a toothpick or pick; might want to make sure and take out the battery from the vtr first to prevent possibility of shorting.

Does anything work on the vtr at all?
 

edyle

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Yes, the iclear 16b (two of them) and a iclear 30s work like champs on the vtr.

That's the reason for checking if an adapter of some sort will work on either the aerotank or the vtr.

You already tried the extension tube on the vtr, so put the extension tube on the aerotank, and screw that onto you vv3 to confirm that it does not work there. Once you confirm that, then it would mean the problem is on the aerotank side.

If it works there, then it means the extension tube isn't making center pin contact with the vtr!!! To confirm that, you can try the 16b on the extension tube on the vtr;



It's either one or the other:
either the center pin on the vtr is pressed down too far, or
the center pin on the aerotank is too flush with the base of the aerotank and needs to stick out a bit.
 

Spectrum156

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This happens to me a lot with the Aerotank/VTR especially right after rebuilding a coil. For me, the base is not the problem.. It tends to always be the leads getting shifted way out of place upon re-inserting the silicone grommet. Here are the steps I usually take.. Make sure there is no liquid on the VTR's connection. Power down the unit and give it a good couple of wipes/twists with a Q-Tip. If that doesnt work, take the head out of the Aerotank base and make sure everything is tight (top chimney portion, bottom grommet, etc..). Then, re-insert into the base fairly tightly. If it still doesnt fire, it could simply be just a dead coil.. Hope this helps.
 

5150Marley

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I had the same problem on my Tesla. Was getting real low Ohms readings and unit won't fire, then would read "short." If I snuck up on it would work; I left the Aero tank about 2 twists from being all the way on, fired and worked. Used that way for a few hits, then started slowly tightening down about 1/8 turn after each hit. It would eventually work while properly secured.

I went back to the B&M where I got the stuff. We studied and examined it and couldn't figure it out. Finally we replaced the base on the Aero tank and it worked fine!! Maybe the tolerances are a little off on the base of the units????

I had the same problem with my Tesla with the "short" error... I took it back to the store they couldn't figure out what was wrong.

They gave me the option of waiting for a new Tesla or taking the value of the Tesla and applying it toward another mod.

I took the credit and got a Provari... a shiny polished stainless steel mini with blue led.

I thought it was the Tesla it seems it was the Aerobase and the Tesla.

Sounds like the Aerobase can be temperamental at times or it could be a Kanger quality control issue?
 

edyle

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I had the same problem with my Tesla with the "short" error... I took it back to the store they couldn't figure out what was wrong.

They gave me the option of waiting for a new Tesla or taking the value of the Tesla and applying it toward another mod.

I took the credit and got a Provari... a shiny polished stainless steel mini with blue led.

I thought it was the Tesla it seems it was the Aerobase and the Tesla.

Sounds like the Aerobase can be temperamental at times or it could be a Kanger quality control issue?

ultimately the problem is really the 510 thread interface is really designed and fine for cigalikes, but for big tanks its really just too small.

to make up for it, many mods are designed with adjustable center pin.
 

5150Marley

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Shhhh its a secret. ;)
ultimately the problem is really the 510 thread interface is really designed and fine for cigalikes, but for big tanks its really just too small.

to make up for it, many mods are designed with adjustable center pin.

All I know is that the all of the Kanger tanks (Mini Protank II, Protank II and the Mega Areotanks) I have work on my MVP, Ego's and my Provari's... Im happy about that.

The poor Tesla just happened to not play nice with the tanks I use... :(
 
OK. I tried all of the suggestions here. Thank you.

#1 Tried the aerotank with the vtr extension on the VV. No go.

#2 Cleaned the VTR, tightened up the coil etc. No dice.

#3 Tried another brand new coil (coil in it was already new). That had the same NON result.

#4 Also tried to push the little connector at the bottom of the base of the aerotank. It did pop out a bit, but when I connect it goes back in.
It didn't make a difference.

So, it seems the base of the unit is defective, at least, in the context of the vtr.

Very strange.
 

edyle

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OK. I tried all of the suggestions here. Thank you.

#1 Tried the aerotank with the vtr extension on the VV. No go.

#2 Cleaned the VTR, tightened up the coil etc. No dice.

#3 Tried another brand new coil (coil in it was already new). That had the same NON result.

#4 Also tried to push the little connector at the bottom of the base of the aerotank. It did pop out a bit, but when I connect it goes back in.
It didn't make a difference.

So, it seems the base of the unit is defective, at least, in the context of the vtr.

Very strange.

That seems to be the problem there; the center pin on the aerotank is getting pressed up inside the 510 thread cylinder.

Since it works with the vv3 it means it ought to work on some 510 thread connectors.

Interesting that it does not work with the extension tube onto the vv3


A mod with adjustable center pin is advantageous in this situation.

I don't know how that aerotank base is made up on the inside but maybe theres some way to get that center pin to come out and stay out; a pice of rubber maybe?
 
I would rather not mess with an expensive APV to make it work with something that's less expensive. Especially when that APV works fine with several other tanks. It's just me.

The tank needs to work with the APV not the other way around. I wrote to kanger's USA customer service in GA. Hopefully they will look into this, considering I am not the only one who is having this problem.
 
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