Aerotank/protank rebuild problems

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spewny

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I've been building new coils for about a week now, but my results have been inconsistent at best. Working with 28ga kanthal around a 16ga needle at 12 wraps in a standard protank cart. The wraps are tight and torched and seem to look just like any videos that I've seen. Then organic cotton through the center without flavor wick.

The issues that I've been seeing are quite random unfortunately, but the most irritating has to be shorts when I screw the cart down tight in the base. I have tried snipping the excess wire with dykes and nail clippers, to the point I can't even see it, but I still seem to be getting shorts at that last bit of tightening. Even more maddening is when everything will checkout perfect until I snug up the aerotank base, then right to 0.0.

At this point I'm not sure if I am doing something wrong with the carts or possibly have a bad base on my aerotank that is creating pressure, but I am hoping someone can shed a little light. Thanks a lot.
 

Denvap0r

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I switched to 30ga kanthal for my PT rebuilds. Makes the coil a little smaller so it is less likely to hit the sides and I found that it heats up a little quicker at lower voltage. Hope that helps a little. I'm sure others will have more and better solutions to your problems, but just this switch helped me.

...and a Bababooey to you all
 

Dakota Jim

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I agree with Denvap0r, it seems like 12 wraps on a 16ga needle is going to be too big and when you tighten it down it is compressing something causing the short to the side wall of your atty head - try 30 or 32 ga kanthal with fewer wraps for better results in the smaller heads and use the 28ga for larger rbas and rdas
 

spewny

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Thanks for the tips fellas. I haven't been having issues with the sidewalls that I can tell with torching and multiple compressions, though I did have to step down from the 5/64 when I was trying 12 wraps as that was the problem. The strange thing about the shorting issue is that 1/10 of a turn back on the base from the 510 connection and the short goes away. I didn't think that the aerotank had a floating pin on the bottom but that is all I can think of. Trying the same things in a second aerotank that I got today and the shorts seem to be gone, so it might have just been that.

Still workin on the typical flooding/low vape issues but that seems to be all about cotton density and orientation. I'm getting there, just amazed at the intricacies of the whole process. Everyone wasn't kidding when they said this evolves into a hobby :)
 

ah64ace

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I have been rebuilding protank and T3S atomizers for about two months and at first I was getting shorts like you. Turns out it was shorting against the chimney when inserting it. I use 32 ga. kanthol and 2.5 mm Silica wick. I double over the silica wick and wrap the wire directly around the wick. 4 wraps give me around 1.8 ohms, 5 wraps around 2.2, and 6 wraps around 2.6. I cut the wick even with the round base and always get good results with no leaking and a great draw and flavor.
 

Denvap0r

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The chimney is a good idea too guys, thanks. I'm thinking some 30ga is in my future so that I can ease up on the wraps and start running higher than 1.4-1.5. The vape is great, but I have to keep it around 10w just to keep it going well.

If I remember correctly 9 wraps around a 20 ga syringe needle with the 30ga kanthal gives me right at 2 ohms. I do these for the wife and friends mainly. Ever since I got my Aqua dual coil clone I haven't used a pro tank.

...and a Bababooey to you all
 

spewny

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So after a little more trial and error, and some searches on google, I found the answer to my leaking issue. I have been rebuilding standard protanks for user in the aerotank, but wasn't even thinking about the height different on the single and dual coils. Long story short, flip the grommet on the carto and put it right on the tank chimney, and no more leaking plus a much better draw. Now if I can just figure why that one base is shorting in my MVP I'll be rockin.
 
I've tried 30ga and 28ga wrapped around a 1/16 bit and have had very few problems with both builds. I boiled a bag of organic cotton months ago for my wicking material and still have like 90% of it left. Very cost effective and I like the taste vs silica wicks. It did take a little while to figure out exactly how much cotton to use (both in the coil and on top) but once I got the hang of it, I've only had maybe one or two of them flood on me in the past few months. I've also found that it helps to press down on the o-ring that slides over the chimney and vape horizontally vs vertical. Hope this helps!
 

tcs007

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i had the same prob make sure the coil isn't touching the chimney when you put it back in the head that was my prub any way if it is just put the coil a little deeper in the head

This is the issue. You're sitting your coils too high in the well. When you tighten down the head, it moves the chimney down into contact with the coil. Set your coils lower, and I'm guessing your issue will go away.

I use 28 ga Kanthal in all my rebuilds. I had this same issue a couple of times until I dropped the coil as low as I could.

With cotton wicking, remember, less is more. It takes way less cotton to wick than I first thought.
 
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