After rinsing my tank, do I need to let the water dry out before filling?

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R211

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I have an EVOD clearomizer, after rinsing the tank, do I need to let all of the water dry out before filling it? Will any water in the tank affect it in any way, messing up the wick, messing up the flavor? Or does it make no real difference at all?

Also, maybe someone can help me out with a separate question as well:

I have an Ego battery (not adjustable voltage or anything... pretty standard) with the Evod clearomizer, with 1.8 resistance coil inside. I tried a 70% VG ejuice sample that I LOVED, and got it again in 70 percent but it tastes kind of burnt. I also tried another 70 percent VG I have and it has kind of a burnt aftertaste as well. I tried the 50/50 juices I got as well, and those don't have that burnt aftertaste.

Do I need a certain kind of voltage or different ohm for vaping thicker juices, or maybe I just got a bad batch?
 

JRZROB

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Some let them naturally dry, I dry most of my stuff with vaper towels, compressed air and blowing/wiping. Never had a problem this way. Sometime rinsing won't clean some tanks and its parts well and you might have to do a vodka/alcohol soak then a hot water rinse to get old flavor out if you are changing flavors.

I just don't have time for waiting for mine to dry, I like having all my stuff in rotation or ready to go with me.
 

HighEnergyProton

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I have multiple tanks, so when I'm just sitting around I clean a few at a time, I just drop them in boiling water and let them sit in it for about an hour. Then taken them out, do what I can with bounty towels, dry burn and they are good to go. If I'm in a stick and need a tank in a hurry I just wash them, dry burn (easy with the Evod because of the separate atty) and then throw juice in there, it hasn't effected me in any way.
 

Katya

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I have an EVOD clearomizer, after rinsing the tank, do I need to let all of the water dry out before filling it? Will any water in the tank affect it in any way, messing up the wick, messing up the flavor? Or does it make no real difference at all?

I usually let mine air dry but it's not necessary, really. A trace amount of water will not make any difference.

I have an Ego battery (not adjustable voltage or anything... pretty standard) with the Evod clearomizer, with 1.8 resistance coil inside. I tried a 70% VG ejuice sample that I LOVED, and got it again in 70 percent but it tastes kind of burnt. I also tried another 70 percent VG I have and it has kind of a burnt aftertaste as well. I tried the 50/50 juices I got as well, and those don't have that burnt
aftertaste.

Sounds like wicking issue to me. If your juice is too thick, you may thin it out with a couple of drops of distilled water per ml or a little PG. This will improve its viscosity--the thicker the juice, the slower it travels.

Do I need a certain kind of voltage or different ohm for vaping thicker juices, or maybe I just got a bad batch?

You may want to lower the voltage a bit, especially with dark sweet, high VG juices. When you vape at high wattages, the juice needs to be able to travel faster to the atomizing chamber in order to cool the coil and prevent the dreaded dry hits.

If that doesn't work, maybe it's just not a good juice?

I like 70/30 and 60/40 PG/VG ratios and I like to vape at 6 watts, more or less. Start there and see how that goes.
 

Kagey K

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My general rule is to keep it about 2 volts above the ohm. If you have a battery you can't adjust that means it starts at about 3.8 v and goes down to 3.2 as the battery depletes, so you,should be using a low resistant atomizer. 1.8 or so. Which you said you are using. So if you are getting a burnt taste using 1.8 on a non vv battery it is likely your wick is drying out, roll your battery around a bit so the the wicks are covered in juice and even turn it upside down for a second or 2 before baling on it just to make sure the wick is fully saturated. If that doesn't work a new wick may be the next thing you try.

Also vaping has a bit of a funny taste at first, make sure you are not mistaking the vape flavour for burnt.
 

R211

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I think my Ejuice is a bad batch :/.

I had this Unicorn Poop from Vapor Chef before in the sample size with the same 70% VG and it tasted great. I have just went through THREE wicks in one day thinking that the wick was the problem, but I am positive it's the juice... no flavor at all except a burnt taste.

Is getting bad batches of juice normal, I really don't think it's my equipment, I have tried other 70% VG without problem (including the sample) :(
 

Katya

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I've never gotten a bad batch--but I have a box full of just plain nasty juices. :p

Have you tried contacting the Vapor Chef? Maybe they'll be willing to send you another small bottle to test? Just explain to them that your original sample was very different from the big bottle. Sometimes good vendors will work with you, even though juices are not returnable or exchangeable for obvious reasons.
 

Train2

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Once a coil is burnt, it'll keep tasting burnt - you kind of have to ditch it and get a new one.
It MIGHT be that the thicker juice is not getting to the coil. I haven't had to do this with EVOD's - only with ProTanks - but it's worth a shot. Use a tweezer and pull out ONE STRAND of the wick. It lets more juice into the coil - but not enough to flood, just enough for thicker juice.

I wash and then let them sit to dry overnight - but that's because I have a whole boatload of different tops (EVOD, miniprotank 1 & 2, protank 1 & 2, T3...). I only use a couple at a time, while the others await washing or wait to be used.


I think my Ejuice is a bad batch :/.

I had this Unicorn Poop from Vapor Chef before in the sample size with the same 70% VG and it tasted great. I have just went through THREE wicks in one day thinking that the wick was the problem, but I am positive it's the juice... no flavor at all except a burnt taste.

Is getting bad batches of juice normal, I really don't think it's my equipment, I have tried other 70% VG without problem (including the sample) :(
 

Katya

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Once a coil is burnt, it'll keep tasting burnt - you kind of have to ditch it and get a new one.
It MIGHT be that the thicker juice is not getting to the coil. I haven't had to do this with EVOD's - only with ProTanks - but it's worth a shot. Use a tweezer and pull out ONE STRAND of the wick. It lets more juice into the coil - but not enough to flood, just enough for thicker juice.

I wash and then let them sit to dry overnight - but that's because I have a whole boatload of different tops (EVOD, miniprotank 1 & 2, protank 1 & 2, T3...). I only use a couple at a time, while the others await washing or wait to be used.

Ahem, you can't really burn a coil--or a wick... They get gunked up and need to be cleaned, true, but they don't really burn. We dry burn our coils to clean them. :)

A coil may pop, especially when dry burned--but then it will not work at all.
 

HecticEnergy

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Up until recently I only had 3 tanks.. I like to switch flavors, so they all usually have something in them. I rinse with really hot water (hot as I can get from the tap) and shake it up quite a bit.
I've never dried mind with a towel or anything. Usually a few minutes in front of my desk fan and it's good enough to vape on... And that's when I'm feeling patient. Other wise I just shake all the water out I can, blow out the vapor/air holes and filler up. I'll usually do a few primer puffs without furring the device until it just starts to gurgle. A few hits later (I mouth to throat hit) and it's golden. Lots of people recommend drying, but I've never really seen much of a difference. Even if your wick is dry, it takes a few puffs before the juice gets to the coil to become delicious vaper!
 

HecticEnergy

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Ahem, you can't really burn a coil--or a wick... They get gunked up and need to be cleaned, true, but they don't really burn. We dry burn our coils to clean them. :)

A coil may pop, especially when dry burned--but then it will not work at all.

You can burn the rubber insulator.. I've done that and the head is RUINED! Be careful with the dry burns is all :)
 

Katya

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You can burn the rubber insulator.. I've done that and the head is RUINED! Be careful with the dry burns is all :)

I agree. Rubber insulators will burn--but not the coils and not the silica wicks--not at the temperatures our coils are generating.

I rarely dry burn nowadays--replacement coils are cheap and I like a new coil. I wet burn often, though! It works well and is gentle on the coils.
 

R211

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does anyone have a good thread or resource they can link me to on how to clean coils? They're Kanger coils for my EVOD... I am new to tanks, I am used to the disposable Cartomizers. I thought coils worked the same way and you toss them once the flavor was bad... some of mine ended up tasting burnt after a few weeks, but not "gunked" but maybe they're still usable.

And can someone explain what dry burning is
 

Katya

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There are many good videos on YouTube:

how to clean kanger coils - YouTube

I just soak mine in PGA (denture cleaning tablets work well, too) and occasionally do a wet burn--I fill the tank with unflavored base (PG/VG mix), raise voltage a bit and vape that (with or without inhaling) until the juice in the tank runs clean.
 
R211, you might want to consider rebuilding your kanger heads. I have a couple of protank 2's that I use and have found that the stock wicks are not for me. I get poor performance and flavor. I rebuild with Kanthal and organic cotton. Tastes great and vape production is greatly enhanced. Plus, it costs maybe a nickel to rebuild. The only negative I have found is the cotton burns out in about four days. The coil stays good for a while. So I rinse then air dry my head then gently remove the cotton. Replace with new cotton, back to vaping.
This works well for me because I like to change juices often.

Sent from my Android powered coffee coaster.
 

HecticEnergy

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I'm with SleepingTurtle. I put a micro coil in my protank head. the only step i do that he didn't mention, is I dry burn after I remove the cotton. Compressed air works awesome for cleaning the coil. Fire it a few times to get it to heat up (dont just hold the button down or you will burn the insulator) like the video says. Instead of blowing, I blast it with the Can O' Air a few times. it seems to work pretty well at freeing up the gunk stuck to it. I also use

It isn't terribly difficult, and you can get 3-7' from most vendors for a few bucks.. or 100ft spool for $5 (+3 shipping) from amazon. Get the 7' ers until you are comfortable with your builds.
I use 32ga kanthal, with 10 wraps on a 5/64 drill bit, and that's clocking in at about 1.7 ohms (perfect for ego). You DO need a multi meter though, to test ohms before poping it on your ego (if that is what you are using). I think you can find them around for $10 at a hardware store. Vape shops have boxes with a 510 connection you can check the resistance on your head for around $20 like here (you can probably find it cheaper, that's just an example).

Alot of people who have done this say they can get a month or more out of a micro coil before they are inclined to change it. That's defiantly cheaper than $1+ a head if you are swapping them out every few days. I had fun doing the rebuild, but there isn't a to of room in there, so its a bit of a pain.

There are tons of videos on line for "Microcoil Protank ReBuild" on youtube. Be Safe!
This lady seems to have a pretty good video here I don't fallow her coil method - I wrap tight on a drill bit, instead of how she does a few loose wraps then "squishes it"
If you still have questions:
Pbusardo has a good one here (at 16 min) This is NOT a micro coil, but it is a good instruction for rebuilding a pt head. He has a better view than the last video.
RipTrippers drives a lot of people nuts, but this one is one of the more mellow videos. He jumps around a bit too.. misses some important stuff (Pbusardo covers). He does 12wraps of 28ga.. that's a bit wide for me, I find I have similar performance with 10 wraps of 32ga, but its a better fit in the cup, no worries about touching the sides of the cup. I do but the drill bit back on before putting the rubber grommet and pin in, to keep the coil in position while I'm tugging on its legs. The 5/64 drill bit is just a hair to big to put into the channels of the PT head, so I'll put it on a 1/16th to do this.


Good luck, I hope this isnt too off track from what you are looking for.
 
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