Aga t-2 is not firing

[rhean]

I''ve had this thing for about a week. What am I doing wrong???

Finally got a microcoil which survived the positive post, which was a miracle. Tried the u-wick with cotton. Worked great, yummy, etc. The coil was around 1.6 ohms, with a 32 gauge Kanthal. I actually put it on my mech mod. No problems.

This morning, it stopped firing. I took it off the mod, measured the ohms using the top posts, got a pretty high reading, 3.5. Measured the bottom, and got nothing.

Figured I needed to take it apart and put it together again. Did that, washed it, dried it, talked to it, practically fed it dessert. Managed to get another working coil which measured around 2.1 ohms from the top posts. Measured the bottom, nothing. Tried it on the mod (I'd given up caution at this point), and it didn't fire. Tried it on a Vision Spinner, again, nothing.

Took it apart, AGAIN. Same process, another coil, same thing. This time I tried it on the Spinner first.

WHAT IS GOING ON? I'm ready to toss it out the window. btw all the battery devices work as usual with every other tank I own, so it's not a battery issue. The multimeter is definitely working.

Btw, the positive post is a menace. It loosens itself, cuts coils, moves around as it's getting screwed into the battery. If I can ever get this thing working, I'll try the spring-washer approach, but the problem is, it won't work.

Edited to add I know that it's my fault lol.

 

[JBL-37]

Make sure when you put it back together you don't over tighten it. The center pin can be pulled up beyond the base. Take off atty and see if positive pin is exposed enough to make contact with battery pin.

Make sure all your insulators are back in as well. I wouldn't suggest putting power to it till you get it figured out. jus in case there is a short.

Also, does your meter read anything at all when hooked up to bottom of atty? Mine shows a number one on far left of screen when there is no contact. When I read a short it is the same as holding the leads together.

Good luck, post up more info if you can.

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

Have you

- tried measuring it on a device like provaro or vamo?
- switched up battery devices?
- check the negative screw?

I feel like its just a case of mod not making contact with center post.

Also, ditch the nuts and use spring - washer

 

[OperationMove]

Back when I had my AGA-T2 I had the exact same problem. When you put the 3 nuts on over and over again on the center post (Or accidently assemble it wrong) the center post isn't sticking out past the 510 connection threads, so until that makes a connection it will not fire. I know this has been said already by the last two posters but I figured I'd chime in.

I used to change devices back and fourth and one would have a floating center pin that was higher than the other, which would offset my AGA-T2 post. When I'd switch over to my nemesis, it wouldnt fire until i took off the cap, loosened the bottom nut a turn or two, and pushed the center post back down. I'm quite certain this is what it is.

 

[rhean]

Thank you! Sorry it took me so long to respond, but I have teens partying after midterms here They're safely eating brunch so I can breathe.

JBL-37: Multimeter reads "1" so no contact. All the insulators are intact and in. First time this happened, the positive pin seemed a bit drawn back, so pulled it up while putting it together, to no avail. Maybe I didn't pull it up enough?

Kanj.nguyen: Sadly, I don't own a Vamo or Provari. The multimeter works, though, and the battery devices are also working. I've tried AGA on other devices. The negative screw seems fine. The measurements taken from the top are fine. Problem is the positive post. Maybe I should have tried the spring-washer thing before complaining lol.

OperationMove: I've been using the bottom two nuts on the positive post, so there's plenty exposed. Maybe that's the problem? When I used all three nuts, there were too many complications

OK, so as soon as the teens leave, I'll reassemble, making sure the positive post is sticking out. Will also look for washers that'll fit the post. Got a spring already from a pen. argh!

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

If youre in a pinch and cant find a washer that fits, a tiny piece of aluminum foil with a hole punched in the middle also works. A little ghetto, but through a long time of tinkering, i foung that aluminum foil can basically do anything. Lol

 

[rhean]

Thanks again! Found a set of 2 mm washers which fit. Put together a coil, and now I've got 1.6 rock solid on top, and floating all over the place on the bottom from 1 to 40, which must mean a short somewhere. I'll research why the top is fine and the bottom is bonkers; there's gotta be a thread on it. If all else fails, there's our local b&m shop. They're super friendly and knowledgeable, and they also sell rdas, which are looking very tempting right now

 

[RWDY]

A trick I use on the AGA-t is to disassemble the atomizer and put an insulator inside the center post then screw the base on. When you put the insulator into the 510 connection it will not go in quite as far which in turn will help to keep the positive post sticking out just a bit, this also puts more friction on the positive post, keeping it from spinning as easy when tighting the nuts. Extra insulators can be found here: AGA Series Positive Post Insulators - 10 pack - Kidney Puncher

 

[RWDY]

Here are some pics:
This will also help to keep the positive post from contacting the base and causing a short.

 

[adamfoul]

A trick I use on the AGA-t is to disassemble the atomizer and put an insulator inside the center post then screw the base on. When you put the insulator into the 510 connection it will not go in quite as far which in turn will help to keep the positive post sticking out just a bit, this also puts more friction on the positive post, keeping it from spinning as easy when tighting the nuts. Extra insulators can be found here: AGA Series Positive Post Insulators - 10 pack - Kidney Puncher

I've had the same problem with my aga t2 (on nemesis clone). Was happily vaping away, put it down while I raided the kitchen, came back, and the battery section was too hot to touch! Quickly took the atty off and dropped the battery out to stop it from shorting, and figured out it was short was in the male 510 connection, I syringed all my juice out, disassembled the aga to find the insulator in the base was totally chewed up, leaving the centre pin to short against the negative section.
It was a good job I wasn't away from my mod too long, could have easily caused a fire. I'm now pretty careful about over tightening, especially when using mods with telescoping pins like the Nemmy, they make it pretty easy to push your centre pin up inside the 510 connection, damaging the grommet.

I don't know if this is a common issue, but I'd recommend just having a quick look at your connection if you have a "floating pin" set up.

Now I gotta get me a new battery, the one in the mod at the time now only holds charge for about an hour, and I've only got 1 spare

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

Thanks again! Found a set of 2 mm washers which fit. Put together a coil, and now I've got 1.6 rock solid on top, and floating all over the place on the bottom from 1 to 40, which must mean a short somewhere. I'll research why the top is fine and the bottom is bonkers; there's gotta be a thread on it. If all else fails, there's our local b&m shop. They're super friendly and knowledgeable, and they also sell rdas, which are looking very tempting right now

A genesis is actually very simple in design, fixing anything shouldnt take more than 10 mins. Now it sounds to me like the tank is working now, you may want to try firing it on a protected battery.

 

[rhean]

A trick I use on the AGA-t is to disassemble the atomizer and put an insulator inside the center post then screw the base on. When you put the insulator into the 510 connection it will not go in quite as far which in turn will help to keep the positive post sticking out just a bit, this also puts more friction on the positive post, keeping it from spinning as easy when tighting the nuts. Extra insulators can be found here: AGA Series Positive Post Insulators - 10 pack - Kidney Puncher

That might stabilize the post! The extra insulator that came with the rba was torn, so I was thinking of ordering extra insulators anyway. Do you think that the weird readings I'm getting on the 510 connection are due to a positive post snafu? Am I supposed to measure the 510 connection? Sorry for the question, and yes, I'm that ignorant.

A genesis is actually very simple in design, fixing anything shouldnt take more than 10 mins. Now it sounds to me like the tank is working now, you may want to try firing it on a protected battery.

The bottom measurements are crazy, though, so I'm not sure if it's working. I'm so jealous that you can get this thing working in ten minutes; I've been trying and failing for days I'll definitely not try it on a mech mod; don't want to be a statistic.

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

That might stabilize the post! The extra insulator that came with the rba was torn, so I was thinking of ordering extra insulators anyway. Do you think that the weird readings I'm getting on the 510 connection are due to a positive post snafu? Am I supposed to measure the 510 connection? Sorry for the question, and yes, I'm that ignorant.

The bottom measurements are crazy, though, so I'm not sure if it's working. I'm so jealous that you can get this thing working in ten minutes; I've been trying and failing for days I'll definitely not try it on a mech mod; don't want to be a statistic.

some pictures may help

 

[RWDY]

The connection is where i measure resistance at, and yes it is possible there is something going on with the positive post. For example when you screw an atomizer down to tight onto the battery/mod you can compress the insulator, causing the positive post to come in contact with the base causing a short.

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

If there is a short, it will show regardless of where you measure it, top or bottom. Say there is a short between the positive post and base. If you measure between the two ends of the coil, there will be two paths connecting the leads: the coil, and the metal body.

I seriously think that if you have a safe battery, you can fire it and see that its actually fine. Also, getting yourself a $25 VAMO can save a lot of this kind of trouble from now on. A lot of things can change when you screw the tank onto a battery and that connection gets pressured. Measuring your resistance when your tank is screwed on is the optimal way.

 

[RWDY]

Kanji is more than likely correct.
I reread the original & my post, I got off track thinking about a short, when in fact no Ohms or jumping around is an indication of a loose or bad connection.
More info
1. I had 1 of my AGA-Ts acting the same way and the extra insulator solved the problem.
2. I use a portable Ohm meter that you screw the atomizer into to measure at the connection.
Sorry for getting off track with my answers!

 

[rhean]

The rba won't fire atm. However, I'll order extra insulators. Contemplating ordering a Vamo as well from FT. Also thinking of getting the Nimbus from our super-friendly local b&m along with some extra kanthal, and see if I can pester the very friendly guy who runs it to help me with the rba while I'm at it. Sadly, they don't sell insulators.

I apologize for my incompetence, and thank you for your help and understanding. This is the nicest place online

 

[RWDY]

No apology's needed, mine drove me batty for about 3 days before i got it working.