AGA-T+, I'm irritated, what the hell? (VAMO Qs as well)

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UncHellMatt

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Everyone running into these problems, you're playing my song. I was having them all, and then some! Now I'm having zero issues.

Since I went with the "spring and washer" method on my AGA-T, I had no problems with my coils. On the SS wicks, I took the advice of someone on these forums and just gently rolled the top portion of my wick, after oxydizing, through a cotton ball, just enough to give a little frosty look. Another thing I did was roll my wick somewhat loose, then take a 1/4" wide strip of cheese cloth and run it through the length of the center, then roll it back up, leaving a small amount dangling out at the bottom. If there was an area at the base which had the potential to cause a short, it would be stopped by the little bit of cheese cloth, and on top of that the cloth soaks up juice like straw. I can vape happily and barely need to tip my juice at all to fully saturate the wick.

You might also consider getting the RSST as someone else mentioned. It's been like night and day, though that and all the others I've had to widen the air hole on the cap considerably. I had it going in one try, no hot spots, no shorts, and the tank goes all the way across the bottom like a bucket. No chance of the bottom of a wick causing a short. It also looks damned spiffy.
 

Dana G Birrell

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I've been vaping this AGA-T pretty successfully every day now. My EGO batteries have all eaten ..... I tested my device side by side with an ego tasting nicotine flavors at a local shop. I am extremely impressed with the flavor that comes off of this device as opposed to an ego device.

Now, does anyone have any recommendations for cleaning the AGA tank without removing the wick/coil?
 

Thraxxy

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It took me afew tries to get good coils running on my aga t2.

I eventually got comfortable with it.

You'll eventually get better at it, too.

I have the best luck wrapping my wire around a drill bit and attaching it to the aga t. Once I've done that, I fire my device to see how it glows. Assuming all isgood, I insert my pre oxidized wick.

Then I gently work the hot spots out.
 

Dana G Birrell

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This thread has been a huge help for me the last two days. Thanks to ALL who have contributed.

Still not where I want to be, but I am a helluva lot closer than i was 48 hours ago!

Biggest tip I can give you that no one else thinks of, make sure you bottom coil is nowhere near the base of the AGA-T. This will help tremendously with eliminating hot spots and getting the bottom coils to heat evenly!
 

Dana G Birrell

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VAMO and AGA-T fell from my front pocket today at work. Landed smack on the drip tip and wouldn't vape. Took an ohm reading and it was showing 0.0 ohms. Slightly twisted the top portion of the AGA-T (on top of the glass) and it vaped for a moment, then died. Pretty sure the AGA-T is screwed from here, I also managed to lose my last nut from the center post. Hopefully one of the local stores that carries battery mods has AGA-Ts or I'm completely screwed for about a week. I have a backup device, but I can't get a coil wrapped properly around silica thread that will properly vape at these levels of voltage.

Edit: Looks like the problem lies in my VAMO. .....
 

Kiva

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Hey guys. I have an AGA-T+ as well. Yesterday I tried to build a low ohm (3 wraps with 32 awg) to try it out because I'm thinking of buying a hybrid/mechanical. But after it not really working out and talking to someone who suggests to use lower gauge kanthal (which I ordered some 30awg today) I made a new wick (using eHumans method, though having to trim some of the 3" width off because I couldn't get it thin enough to fit into the wick hole) and wrapped a coil. It kind of seems like all the coils are heating up evenly except the bottom one. It seems like it takes awhile to heat up. Why is this? And how can I fix It?


Sent from my iPhone
 

cowboy6591

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VAMO and AGA-T fell from my front pocket today at work. Landed smack on the drip tip and wouldn't vape. Took an ohm reading and it was showing 0.0 ohms. Slightly twisted the top portion of the AGA-T (on top of the glass) and it vaped for a moment, then died. Pretty sure the AGA-T is screwed from here, I also managed to lose my last nut from the center post. Hopefully one of the local stores that carries battery mods has AGA-Ts or I'm completely screwed for about a week. I have a backup device, but I can't get a coil wrapped properly around silica thread that will properly vape at these levels of voltage.

Edit: Looks like the problem lies in my VAMO. .....

Make sure when you dropped it the impact “Bounce Back” did not crush the spring on the bottom cap:facepalm:. They are built to collapse under heat but I would imagine a good smack could loosen things up so the battery will lose contact with the top connector thanks to the bottom spring crush allowing alot of looseness. I shouldn't advise to shove a hunk of tin foil in the bottom cap but if I had this problem I would dare and go it. At least as a test unless your button is located at the bottom then all bets are off don't doit!!!:(
 
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cowboy6591

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Thank you, when a coil glows from the wick to the post, does that mean the coil is too tight around the wick?


The coil glowing red between the end [of either side] of the coil going to the post or ground screw [their called legs] is a PROBLEM!! That gives a bitter burnt taste. You don't want that. I double back on my ends to the wick with a twisting technique that lowers the resistance of my legs preventing the glowing. It's a cheat/Shortcut to avoid using Non Resistance Wire [NRW] from the post to the coil witch ultimately wipes out glowing legs. I have seen setups that don't use any of these techniques run successfully but notice the coils where rapped close together, little or no gaps and the post to coil space was under 1/8 " so keep the coils winding gaps close and the legs gap to connector short and you can skip the Bovine Serenity. :2c:
 

albcig

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Hey guys ive been reading this thread im trying to sort out my aga t+ which i got the other day, however looking at the pics in the begenning of the thread puzzles me as the rubber ring underneath my 3 nuts is missing can anyone offer me a solution please?

Thanks

don't worry about that. i have removed that one completely cause it tends to burn on low resistance and gives a bad taste. the real insulator is a black grommet underneath the upper deck.
 

cowboy6591

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just finished building a new coil, and i have to be honest, although i consider myself an experienced user i understand the frustration the beginners are going through. its a metal touching metal touching metal setup. they have to come up with something new. this thing is just hard sometimes

Dude I am with ya on that one.!! One thing that reality keeps hitting me on the side of the head with is the fact that as I screw around with these gennys [Genesis tanks] and SS stuff, From stainless steel rope to ss-mesh
now ss-mesh with 2 strands of silica core [to prevent the tank juice from getting crapton and gross.
And a small wrap of cotton gauze to prevent shorting. [this can add problems with flavor].


I have figured out the coil business but am sick and tired of the inconsistency of the build results and the lack of consistency with performance. MEANWHILE!! The whole time I am %$#@'n with these gennys I am sucking on a Carto Tank and getting a consistent vape though weak in flavor and throat hit the clouds are good and it is “Consistent” in hot weather, clammy climates in the bathroom after a shower, First thing in the morning= same ole carto performance. While I hammer in hundreds of hours to make these %$#@!! genesis tank coils to work. Replacing cartos with commercial replacements at 2 bucks a pop every ten days $uck$ like a Hoover. The whole idea of my buying into the RBA/Tank like a Geneses is;
To hopefully design a system that will hold up for 6 months and not require .... attentive Bovine Scatology rebuilds every three days. If you succeed in your methodology of winding a wick and coiling it, the next time you repeat those same techniques and the ghost of mechanical sodomy comes knocking and WHAM!! this time my method didn't work ? Huhhhh?
This whole wick build and winding is such an “In The Moment” type of thing it becomes more of an Art then a science, and I am not much of an artist, unless I get behind my Pedal Steel Guitar, but then again I'm not much of a good one either.


The jury is still out on my “Deciding” to be a Genny fan or not, I am going to try all things, Botttom feed, Top clear-tank and bottom feed clear-tanks high dollar Kayfun stuff before I “Settle” in on a format to cling to. They all must be rebuild-able because I am a doomsdayer independent DIY type.
BOX mods look repairable also, You can change out the button in minutes to a Radio Shack replacement for a buck. YES!! I love the Genny's performance but can't depend on it. The AC comes on in my house and suddenly I am vaping an entirely different vape machine? What? First hit in the morning is bad too but after that all is good? My carto tanks don't flake out like that, but they don't satisfy me either on flavor or throat hit.
I hate to brag about my setup right now, It's vaping like a blown radiator hose on a 1929 Model -T
And flavor to beat the band, but I know in one week I will be in here cussing at my AGA -T2 Dual coil/Wick setup like a sailor with a social disease.
:evil::mad::vapor:
 
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cowboy6591

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I may have just coiled a twisted 34g @ 1.7 ohms. Not really 100% sure as I basted the wick and coils with minty chocolate, which tastes absolutely horrifying, but we'll see here in a few.

E: No burnt or metallic taste! Time to work it around a little bit more to get a stronger vape.

Progress? I think I figured out one of the main things I've been doing wrong, and it's setting my first coil too close to the base of the device.

E: Slightly re-wrapped, sitting at 2.0 Ohms. bottom coil is off of the bottom of the device, and it's vaping at 3.7v with flavor, without metallic or burnt taste. Once I up the mod to 4.8v, I start getting a burnt taste from the vape. Tomorrow, I will empty the tank, burn off the juice and take pictures of the coil cold and hot as well as burning juice. For now, off to bed.

"Once I up the mod to 4.8v, I start getting a burnt taste"

That turning up the voltage and then getting a burnt taste sounds like a kanarkered wick, I would guess it's running lean [dry] and the excessive heat is allowing some hot spots witch doesn't mean your coil is bad, it maybe the lack of juice= bad wick?.
:2c:
 

cowboy6591

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Dude I am with ya on that one.!! One thing that reality keeps hitting me on the side of the head with is the fact that as I screw around with these gennys [Genesis tanks] and SS stuff, From stainless steel rope to ss-mesh
now ss-mesh with 2 strands of silica core [to prevent the tank juice from getting crapton and gross.
And a small wrap of cotton gauze to prevent shorting. [this can add problems with flavor].


I have figured out the coil business but am sick and tired of the inconsistency of the build results and the lack of consistency with performance. MEANWHILE!! The whole time I am %$#@'n with these gennys I am sucking on a Carto Tank and getting a consistent vape though weak in flavor and throat hit the clouds are good and it is “Consistent” in hot weather, clammy climates in the bathroom after a shower, First thing in the morning= same ole carto performance. While I hammer in hundreds of hours to make these %$#@!! genesis tank coils to work. Replacing cartos with commercial replacements at 2 bucks a pop every ten days $uck$ like a Hoover. The whole idea of my buying into the RBA/Tank like a Geneses is;
To hopefully design a system that will hold up for 6 months and not require .... attentive Bovine Scatology rebuilds every three days. If you succeed in your methodology of winding a wick and coiling it, the next time you repeat those same techniques and the ghost of mechanical sodomy comes knocking and WHAM!! this time my method didn't work ? Huhhhh?
This whole wick build and winding is such an “In The Moment” type of thing it becomes more of an Art then a science, and I am not much of an artist, unless I get behind my Pedal Steel Guitar, but then again I'm not much of a good one either.


The jury is still out on my “Deciding” to be a Genny fan or not, I am going to try all things, Botttom feed, Top clear-tank and bottom feed clear-tanks high dollar Kayfun stuff before I “Settle” in on a format to cling to. They all must be rebuild-able because I am a doomsdayer independent DIY type.
BOX mods look repairable also, You can change out the button in minutes to a Radio Shack replacement for a buck. YES!! I love the Genny's performance but can't depend on it. The AC comes on in my house and suddenly I am vaping an entirely different vape machine? What? First hit in the morning is bad too but after that all is good? My carto tanks don't flake out like that, but they don't satisfy me either on flavor or throat hit.
I hate to brag about my setup right now, It's vaping like a blown radiator hose on a 1929 Model -T
And flavor to beat the band, but I know in one week I will be in here cussing at my AGA -T2 Dual coil/Wick setup like a sailor with a social disease.
:evil::mad::vapor:

Well make it 6 days instead of a week. Not giving up but not sold either on these genny clones AGA T-2. Steadily the ohms reading going up 1/10th ohm every day. Started out at 0.9 Ohms and uppity up up up she goes day 6 1.5 Ohms and craptastic flavor craptonite vape but the throat hit was short of bull flatulence. :censored::rules::danger:


Been battling the gunky piles on the coil and the resistance steadily rising worse then a cheap carto-tank. I am dumping the 32 Gauge Kanthal and going down to 30 gauge and I will sample a 28 gauge if need be. I like the efficiency of thin wire , lower watts tighter coil but that rapid depletion has got to go.


32 gauge Kanthal does not keep, not well enough for me anyway. I got away from single coil 1.7 ohm cartomisers for the same reason, 4 or 5 days and Pbtptbptbptbbppttbptb :pervy:
Ohm goes up to 2.4 and my system turns into a pile of cylindrical BILE.:evil::mad::p

This is not a dry wick problem I assure you, Never let it run dry and toke at 3 O'Clock position.

There's got to be a resistance wire out here in Cyber La La land that will make it down the road one
month before the Bovine Squats. Back to the drawing board as predicted, Maybe a double stack
battery 18350's on a mech with 2.5 ohms 29 or 30 gauge kanthal will hold up better, I hate to go in that direction but this 4 to 7 day life expectancy of 32 gauge is worse then being a FAT bee at a fly swatters convention.
 
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notawoman

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Im a new genesis builder, ive managed to get my rsst working great. The aga t plus on the other hand gives me a lot of problems. It's not forgiving to inexperienced genesis builders in my opinion.

I would suggest using the 32 gauge with a vamo. 28 gauge will be very low ohm coils. Also if the top coil glows that bright you have a bad short. Try oxidizing more and a juice burn or two. When installing don't tighten the top too tight or it will short out instantly.

Honestly id recommend a rsst. not hard to work with it even has a spring loaded center post.
 
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