- Status
If your ohm's are changing check that the negative screw and the nut on the positive lead are tight.
After tightening both a bit, if the ohm's still fluctuate try twisting the wick just a bit inside the coil.
Hard to tell from your picture, but also make sure the extra ends of the wire aren't touching anything.
Looks like yours could be, but as I said hard to tell from the picture.
I built my first AGA-T2 about a hour ago. I watched several videos including Phil's. I'm getting 2-2.2 ohms. To quote Grimgreen, it's vapeing like a sir!
http://sincemylastcigarette.com/banners/1355470200_20_1_USD_5.85_dark.png
You are getting the usual "set up" shorts.
Having a mechanical mod & multimeter around would make life so much easier getting all set up.
You'd "Pulse-oxidize" your mesh with the mech in the area where the coils make contact with the wick. When all done, you'd move the AGA back to your electronic mod and vape away providing it's not under 1.2 ohms (goes for most electronic mods). Anyone using gennies should have at least 1 mechanical mod in their arsenal, if only for that.
If you want to vape below 1.2 ohms, a mechanical, not electronic mod is recommended.
But, should a day come when you've had enough of the SS shortcomings and are looking for better taste, consider looking into ceramic wicks at some point.
Last edited:
Congratulations! I just rebuilt my coil and am sitting at 2.1 ohms vaping at 3.7 volts. Feels like I'm getting more nicotine because I actually got a bit of a rush chain vaping mine to see if i could dry it out(which i couldn't). I always chain vape too. I love this atomizer.
Just saw that you're a fellow Texan. How long have you been vaping?
ok question for you. I haven't seriously looked at mechanicals because I thought you didn't want to try rebuilding without the safety features built into something like a Vamo. Is the multimeter enough to ensure no shorts? Is it ok to do it all on a Mech? (with a multimeter of course)
Another alternative that I use for oxidizing the wick is stove top burners (if you have a gas stove). A lot easier and faster than using a lighter imo.
Yes, it's safe. What's unsafe is not using a multimeter.
But ... IMR batteries are touted as safe, and many "High Drain" Li-Ion batteries have internal protections. The drawback using electronic mods is that they give "Low" resistance indicators and do not show the actual resistance to give you a heads up what's actually wrong, and thus they are limited in scope troubleshooting.
Even if above 1.2 ohms, often the limitations of your electronic mod forces you to continue futzing around with your wick to further oxidize it when that is like ... SO unnecessary. A mechanical won't give you any flack ... just check it with your multimeter, and if within the expected resistance range you were gunning for, then just pulse-oxidize the mesh/coil with your mech. And should shorts or "Low resistance" trouble arise at a later point with your electronic mod, multimeter it and fix it on your mechanical.
Lighters, cigarette papers, torches, VG-burnings and other such tricks not required when you have a mechanical. Maybe one day some electronic mods will have a mechanical bypass feature for such set-up operations, or minimally measure the actual resistance of your Genny regardless where it's at.
Last edited:
Thanks for the input. I've got a mech, but it's a 5V GLV-2, and I was worried about popping the coil at that voltage. I will definitely look into the ceramic wick option. Thanks again!
I am wondering if anyone can help me out. I have been going crazy on rebuilding coils everyday for the past two weeks. I use the AGA-T2 and the RSST and both have the same problem. Everything is fine for the fist 12 hours, all of a sudden I get carbon build up (or what looks like a black build up) on the top two - three coils. The bottom two look just fine. This makes the taste a little off and soon after, I get a hot spot on the top coil/coils. All the coils light up perfectly before i get to vaping. I am using 500ss mesh with 30g kanthal. Everyone seems to have good results but I wanted to see how long a build is lasting with everyone else.
What I usually do in this situation is just slide the wick out of the coils and do a quick dry burn of the coils until they all glow evenly again. The old juice that gunks the coils will burn off and be back to good as new.
I've been vapeing about 4 1/2 months and will never touch another analog cig again (stupid politicians not withstanding).
http://sincemylastcigarette.com/banners/1355470200_20_1_USD_5.85_dark.png
I must say that ceramic wicks are still in their very early days, you only have to look at them and they break! They also take longer to get to temperature compared to ss mesh.
The earlier 3/32 ... yes, but they are gone now. Of the five 1/8 ceramic wicks I have installed none have broken and are quite sturdy although some care is still required. None of the harsh acrid taste of SS either, but brilliant flavors in their native state.
SS is way slower to come to temp than ceramic ... esp. the newer ones released over the last month or so. Check out the applicable forums, things have changed quite a bit. Some people don't take the time to read up how to coil them properly and end up with poor results.
I'm long done with SS, so have thousands of others ... it's about to become a by-gone product.
Too many possibilities what could be wrong. Not sure where to start, debug could go on for the next 10 pages. But if you are routinely getting hot spots after 12 hours ... and both different-make RBAs are developing the same problem, I'm inclined to think your mesh above the wickhole has not been fully oxidized by the coils, excessive top wire tension leading to the pos. post, wire not going straight to the pos. post, loose top nut/screw, mesh edge shorting out, etc. ad infinitum.
Nonetheless, if it's not resolvable, watch as many Youtube vids you can find and follow the instructions of the most credible one(s) to the letter, and start your wick and coil making all over. Maybe you are making the same error installing wick & coil on both attys and you can sort this out somehow.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
