Just thought I would drop my 2 cents into the mix. The AGA-T2 is my first (and only) RBA, and I have had it for around 2-3 months now. I really like it, but it took experimenting with several different building methods before I settled on my current one. Here it goes:
I use 500# stainless steel mesh. I have also used 400, but the 500 wicks better for me. I cut the mesh into a 1.5" x 2.5" rectangle, and wash it with hot water and dish soap. Next, I roll it into a solid wick as tight as I can (no center air hole). I press really hard while twisting it between my fingers. I do not oxidize the mesh before I roll, because I noticed that doing so makes the mesh less malleable and harder to roll into a tight wick. I also do not fold the outside edge over anymore because the flap had a tendency to make the edge pop up on the finished wick, and create uneven contact with the coil. I just make sure that the outside edge it perfectly cut with no frays.
Once the wick is rolled, I test fit it into the wick hole on the RBA to make sure it fits. Once confirmed, I proceed to oxidize it with my propane torch. I have experimented with unoxidized wicks, and while I thought the vape was good, the wick does not maintain its shape as well as an oxidized one. Working out hot spots was more of a chore because the wick kept flexing and bending. I only make ONE oxidizing pass over the flame, making sure that the entire wick glows to the core. I immediately quench the wick in water and dry it off. I do not repeat the process, and I DO NOT burn any juice on the wick. To me, juice burning contributes to off flavors in my vape, and also causes black crap to leak back into the tank after vaping and turn my juice a darker color. At this point, the wick is rigid and holds it shape really well.
I use the Petar K drill bit method for my coils. This is the only way to go for me, and I have been using it exclusively for a while now. My AWG of choice is 28g kanthal A-1. I cut my length of wire, and oxidize the whole thing with my torch, making sure the wire glows while moving it through the flame slowly. A 3/16" drill bit is perfect for the AGA-T2. Looking down on the top of the bit, I twist the wire counter-clockwise, starting at the bottom and coiling upwards. I do a 7/8 wrap, which yields about a 1.1-1.2 ohm coil, keeping the coils nice and close together (without touching). Then I insert the bit into the wick hole and pass the grounding leg along the outside of the ground screw. I go on the outside of this screw because tightening the screw causes the wire to increase tension and hold firmly to the bit. Passing the wire to the inside causes the lower coil or two to pop off the bit when tightening the screw. I then do the same with the positive leg - pass the wire on the ground screw side of the center post (between the top two nuts) and wrap about 180 degrees clockwise around the post. I pull it pretty tight so it holds its shape, but then release the tension before tightening the top nut down with a pair of needle nose pliers. Again, tension is created when I wrench down the nut so the wire holds tight to the bit. The goal here is to maintain consistent-sized coils that all touch the wick the same amount. Once everything is tight, I gently wiggle the bit out of the hole and check the the resistance. I follow this up with a few test fire pulses to confirm a solid connection and to seat/break in the wire. I DO NOT remove the excess wire from the leads yet.
Wick insertion is next. My wicks slide pretty easily into the coil until the very end. I make sure the wick makes contact with the bottom of the tank, and that it sits in the recessed well between the center post and the glass. This will ground out the wick (just in case), and also prevent it from moving around when I need to make coil adjustments. A test fire is next, and I usually have a hotspot on either the top coil or on the wire going from the wick to the post. My first adjustment is to push the top of the wick closer to the post. This releases a bit of tension on the wire, and also creates a little more contact between the top coil and the wick. Wrapping the center post clockwise, and ensuring the wick is squarely in that little well inside the tank, makes this adjustment a snap. This will usually take care of any major hotspots near the top. Some additional fiddling is usually required, but it is very minimal. Once the coil is heating evenly, and heating up in the middle of the coil first before spreading toward the ends, I remove the excess wire sticking out. I have had to make a few last minute adjustments to the wire before, and leaving this excess until the bitter end is very helpful.
Before I fill the tank, I drop a few drops of juice on the wick/coil and fire it up. In the past, my seemingly perfect wick has sometimes developed a hot spot once juice was introduced into the tank, and I would have to empty the tank and rework the coil. A few drops up top first helps to sort out these final gremlins. Once checked, I fill up the tank and vape away!
This process has served me very well. I can't tell you how amazing this device is once you have all the kinks out. I was limping along there for a while, trying to figure out why I wasn't satisfied with my device. I had enough glimmers of hope with previous setups that I knew AGA-T nirvana was possible, but I think I have finally arrived. I can now go through multiple tanks of juice without having to change a thing. Great flavor, great vapor production, the throat hit is borderline reckless even with 6mg juice, and my satisfaction level is through the roof.
BTW - I use this on a Black Silver Bullet mod with an 18650 AW IC battery in order to handle the low ohms.
Good luck!
I use 500# stainless steel mesh. I have also used 400, but the 500 wicks better for me. I cut the mesh into a 1.5" x 2.5" rectangle, and wash it with hot water and dish soap. Next, I roll it into a solid wick as tight as I can (no center air hole). I press really hard while twisting it between my fingers. I do not oxidize the mesh before I roll, because I noticed that doing so makes the mesh less malleable and harder to roll into a tight wick. I also do not fold the outside edge over anymore because the flap had a tendency to make the edge pop up on the finished wick, and create uneven contact with the coil. I just make sure that the outside edge it perfectly cut with no frays.
Once the wick is rolled, I test fit it into the wick hole on the RBA to make sure it fits. Once confirmed, I proceed to oxidize it with my propane torch. I have experimented with unoxidized wicks, and while I thought the vape was good, the wick does not maintain its shape as well as an oxidized one. Working out hot spots was more of a chore because the wick kept flexing and bending. I only make ONE oxidizing pass over the flame, making sure that the entire wick glows to the core. I immediately quench the wick in water and dry it off. I do not repeat the process, and I DO NOT burn any juice on the wick. To me, juice burning contributes to off flavors in my vape, and also causes black crap to leak back into the tank after vaping and turn my juice a darker color. At this point, the wick is rigid and holds it shape really well.
I use the Petar K drill bit method for my coils. This is the only way to go for me, and I have been using it exclusively for a while now. My AWG of choice is 28g kanthal A-1. I cut my length of wire, and oxidize the whole thing with my torch, making sure the wire glows while moving it through the flame slowly. A 3/16" drill bit is perfect for the AGA-T2. Looking down on the top of the bit, I twist the wire counter-clockwise, starting at the bottom and coiling upwards. I do a 7/8 wrap, which yields about a 1.1-1.2 ohm coil, keeping the coils nice and close together (without touching). Then I insert the bit into the wick hole and pass the grounding leg along the outside of the ground screw. I go on the outside of this screw because tightening the screw causes the wire to increase tension and hold firmly to the bit. Passing the wire to the inside causes the lower coil or two to pop off the bit when tightening the screw. I then do the same with the positive leg - pass the wire on the ground screw side of the center post (between the top two nuts) and wrap about 180 degrees clockwise around the post. I pull it pretty tight so it holds its shape, but then release the tension before tightening the top nut down with a pair of needle nose pliers. Again, tension is created when I wrench down the nut so the wire holds tight to the bit. The goal here is to maintain consistent-sized coils that all touch the wick the same amount. Once everything is tight, I gently wiggle the bit out of the hole and check the the resistance. I follow this up with a few test fire pulses to confirm a solid connection and to seat/break in the wire. I DO NOT remove the excess wire from the leads yet.
Wick insertion is next. My wicks slide pretty easily into the coil until the very end. I make sure the wick makes contact with the bottom of the tank, and that it sits in the recessed well between the center post and the glass. This will ground out the wick (just in case), and also prevent it from moving around when I need to make coil adjustments. A test fire is next, and I usually have a hotspot on either the top coil or on the wire going from the wick to the post. My first adjustment is to push the top of the wick closer to the post. This releases a bit of tension on the wire, and also creates a little more contact between the top coil and the wick. Wrapping the center post clockwise, and ensuring the wick is squarely in that little well inside the tank, makes this adjustment a snap. This will usually take care of any major hotspots near the top. Some additional fiddling is usually required, but it is very minimal. Once the coil is heating evenly, and heating up in the middle of the coil first before spreading toward the ends, I remove the excess wire sticking out. I have had to make a few last minute adjustments to the wire before, and leaving this excess until the bitter end is very helpful.
Before I fill the tank, I drop a few drops of juice on the wick/coil and fire it up. In the past, my seemingly perfect wick has sometimes developed a hot spot once juice was introduced into the tank, and I would have to empty the tank and rework the coil. A few drops up top first helps to sort out these final gremlins. Once checked, I fill up the tank and vape away!
This process has served me very well. I can't tell you how amazing this device is once you have all the kinks out. I was limping along there for a while, trying to figure out why I wasn't satisfied with my device. I had enough glimmers of hope with previous setups that I knew AGA-T nirvana was possible, but I think I have finally arrived. I can now go through multiple tanks of juice without having to change a thing. Great flavor, great vapor production, the throat hit is borderline reckless even with 6mg juice, and my satisfaction level is through the roof.
BTW - I use this on a Black Silver Bullet mod with an 18650 AW IC battery in order to handle the low ohms.
Good luck!
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