Aleader X-Drip 510 leaking

[DexterKBK]

Hey everybody, I'm still kind of new on the site, i just made my first post last night.

So i just got my first ever mechanical squonker (though i have owned unregulated and mechanical mods before) and am experiencing leaking from the 510.

Luckily the whole box strips down easily, so i was able to at least locate the problem, the leak is occurring around the spring loaded center post of the 510, but only when i squonk.

Also the atty I'm using has the style of bf pin that is cut all the way across for a flat head blade, and I'm assuming it doesn't make a very good seal against the center post, but shouldn't the inside of the 510 connection have a seal to stop any excess juice from draining into the internals?

I'm upset and feel like i wasted money on a box that, other than this slow leak, seems to be well made!

Please Help!

 

[listopencil]

I'm a squonk newbie but maybe you can get a better quality BF 510 pin and swap it out?

 

[DexterKBK]

I was thinking about just replacing the whole 510 but that would be a last resort for sure.

Do you know anything about disassembling a 510? I would like to try to take the center pin out to get a better look at everything but i don't want to break anything in the process... Thank you for your quick response!

 

[DexterKBK]

I so wish i knew how to get that center pin out. If i could just get everything disassembled I'm confident i could at least make the leak better and probably come up with a fix for it.

Calling all diy'ers, how do you disassemble a 510 connection? (Removing the spring loaded center pin)

 

[bombastinator]

On the mod or the atty? On the atty it’s easy. On the mod not so much

 

[DexterKBK]

On the mod, and I'm very happy to say i figured it out, at first i thought the chamber holding the spring was press fit or something, but with a little elbow grease the pin unscrewed from the 510, and so does the area that holds the spring against the pin.

I'm making a makeshift seal right now, the way I'm looking at it is it can't be worse than it was, i can only improve the situation.

And talk about bad design, there were NO o-rings or seals of any sort in the 510, no wonder it leaks honestly I'm surprised it wasn't worse.

Thank you so for your help, I'll be sure to pop back in when I'm done and let you all know how it went! And now if anyone needs help with anything on this mod and no one else here has it yet, i can help them! So glad i finally started posting here

 

[stols001]

I hope that fixes your problem DexterKBK, and do let us know about the outcome. I have never had to replace a mod's 510 pin (thankfully, because I don't think I would be good at it). Slow leaks are the most annoying, IMO. It's like you have to constantly look out for them.... I really hope this works!

Anna

 

[DexterKBK]

Thank you so much Anna! So far so good! I've squonked 3-4 ml already and no leaks yet! I can't say for sure that is fixed yet, but i have hope, and when you just bought a squonker that your having to semi modify, hope is a beautiful thing

Have a good day!

 

[inswva]

If you do eventually want to replace the 510, I'd suggest a Modmaker unit. They are fairly inexpensive and very easy to install in a mechanical squonker.

MM510 Squonker Connector

MM510 Washers

 

[VictorViper]

Glad you went ahead and broke the 510 down - nothing to fear, as you learned, these connections are marvelously simple. That also generally means a quick and easy diagnosis and fix (assuming no damage - or in this case, what seems like a sloppy design).

If it continues to be a problem, swapping out for a different 510 is dead easy and cheap, you just need to be relatively sure the switch will still make contact with the pin. Sometimes that will come with a need for some minor adjustments to the positive leaf.

 

[DexterKBK]

Yeah i think in the end i will make this box one of my first vape related diy projects. But I'm happy to say that i completely fixed the leak! I've already refilled my squonk bottle at least 6-7 times since i fixed it (probably more lol)

I also watched another video about this box and there is another HUGE, even dangerous flaw in the design of this box. Basically there is a brass fastener holding down the contact bar, and the brass button is touching the contact bar as well.

That's all good and well, IF you insulate those items! If something metal in your pocket were to touch the fastener/button and the sleeve of your atty it will hard short the battery.

At least it was an easy fix, just applied electrical tape to the contact bar. It's pretty much fixed, bit when i tested it with a multimeter (positive probe on atty sleeve, negative on the mods fastener) i was reading 2 volts with a fully charged battery. Before it would show 4.2ish.

Anyone know why it's still carrying current? Any ideas on how to fix it completely? Thanks again everybody, you've so been so friendly and helpful!

 

[VictorViper]

Yeah i think in the end i will make this box one of my first vape related diy projects. But I'm happy to say that i completely fixed the leak! I've already refilled my squonk bottle at least 6-7 times since i fixed it (probably more lol)

I also watched another video about this box and there is another HUGE, even dangerous flaw in the design of this box. Basically there is a brass fastener holding down the contact bar, and the brass button is touching the contact bar as well.

That's all good and well, IF you insulate those items! If something metal in your pocket were to touch the fastener/button and the sleeve of your atty it will hard short the battery.

At least it was an easy fix, just applied electrical tape to the contact bar. It's pretty much fixed, bit when i tested it with a multimeter (positive probe on atty sleeve, negative on the mods fastener) i was reading 2 volts with a fully charged battery. Before it would show 4.2ish.

Anyone know why it's still carrying current? Any ideas on how to fix it completely? Thanks again everybody, you've so been so friendly and helpful!

Can you show us where this is happening? Seeing this kind of nonsense a lot.

[EDIT] I knew this one seemed particularly familiar. Vid inside with his fix method.

Aleader X-drip squonk Mod

 

[DexterKBK]

Wow you got that quick, problem is that was the fix i used... is his thread still open? I ever so slightly ripped the electrical tape when screwing the fastener down and I was still reading half of the batteries current. I used the same method again, but with one extra layer on the side of the contact bar that's facing away from the box and now it's fixed.

I would like to try to think up something a little more permanent. But yeah this box is actually pretty good if you fix it up, and it seems like nobody else has encountered leaking so honestly i don't get it.

I want to talk to someone who owns the mod

 

[VictorViper]

Wow you got that quick, problem is that was the fix i used... is his thread still open? I ever so slightly ripped the electrical tape when screwing the fastener down and I was still reading half of the batteries current. I used the same method again, but with one extra layer on the side of the contact bar that's facing away from the box and now it's fixed.

I would like to try to think up something a little more permanent. But yeah this box is actually pretty good if you fix it up, and it seems like nobody else has encountered leaking so honestly i don't get it.

I want to talk to someone who owns the mod

The OP in that thread is the only other member to mention it that I've seen. @EatMaBB you around?

The trick with his fix seems to be ensuring the hole in the tape is basically a pin-pri ck so when you pop the screw through, it kind of wraps itself in the excess. Surely a rubber grommet would fix the issue.

[EDIT] Something like I've shown below in the right size would do the trick. Should have been included in the design with spares in the damn box. Jeebus.

 

[EatMaBB]

I will try a slotted 510 on mine and see if it leaks with me(give me a couple of days to test).
If your still getting a short with the tape fix, try using 18650 battery wrap on it, if your not sure how to do it with the wrap then you will have to wait on my review for it(24th or 26th November).

 

[EatMaBB]

Just checked mine and it is leaking with a slotted 510 pin on the dripper.
Looks like this is going to be a get and fix everything on it.

 

[DexterKBK]

Yeah and it's my first mechanical squonker too. I had the Kangertech Dripbox 160 but i was not satisfied with the experience and sold it.

If you take apart the whole entire 510, everything unscrews, including three little housing that holds the spring and the center pin, i was actually surprised that it came completely apart.

So the leak is fixed, but I'm not so sure grommets would work, because the fastener would still be touching the brass on the inside of the hole in the contact. Do you know what i mean?

 

[VictorViper]

Yeah and it's my first mechanical squonker too. I had the Kangertech Dripbox 160 but i was not satisfied with the experience and sold it.

If you take apart the whole entire 510, everything unscrews, including three little housing that holds the spring and the center pin, i was actually surprised that it came completely apart.

So the leak is fixed, but I'm not so sure grommets would work, because the fastener would still be touching the brass on the inside of the hole in the contact. Do you know what i mean?

Not if you can source something like what I linked in the image. Look at those like a circular I-beam. The slotted outer diameter only cuts in about halfway to make a channel for fitting. The inner opening is solid.

The real trick will be fitting it without needing to find another fastener. You might need to punch out a wider hole to accommodate it, or find a thinner fastener.

 

[DexterKBK]

Oh i see! I didn't notice that they were slotted, that's a brilliant idea man thank you! And a cheap, permanent solution to that problem.

Now, on to my next problem lol. I have sightly warped the resin around the 510.

So this mod comes with a 24mm ultem/pei disc that goes under the atty, I'm assuming it's meant to help with heat dissipation, but i wanted to be able to screw the atty down as far as possible, so i neglected to use said ultem disc. I have been running a 22mm tsunami, with a .16 dual ss316l/nicr fused Clapton build in it, which is enough to really heat up the atty.

I also can't seem to find any basic information on the care of mods made entirely of resin! Hell i can't even figure out what the exact material used is, and I'd like to think I've got some Google skills... In the context of vaping i can't find any info about whether it's prone to melting from heat transfer, and just how easy it is to break (even though i know it wouldn't take much) when knocked over, or god forbid, being dropped.

This is driving me nuts, i just want to know more about this *censored* resin!

Can anyone with some experience with resin box mods please chime in? Particularly mechanical boxes made entirely of resin like this device. In case any if you haven't seen this device yet it's very similar to the RAM, just fully mechanical.

The material feels cheap, I've already warped it quite a bit, to the point where there is a small gap between the door panel and the body of the device. Super bummed. Also i will throw in pics if anybody is interested. Thank you all for being so helpful.

 

[VictorViper]

They won't even call it resin in the official marketing junk. Just wood/resin "style". Resin isn't a specific material but a class of materials and the contents can vary wildly depending on application, etc.

Gonna be honest, this thing is about as half-arsed a mod as I've ever seen. These are prototype issues, not production model issues.