Aleader X-Drip 510 leaking

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DexterKBK

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Feb 25, 2017
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Yeah to make myself feel better about the purchase, I'm telling myself i bought a diy squonk kit for $40, which is a great deal to me. But even once the whole thing has had all the parts replaced, I'm still left with this "resin" body that feels like it could be crushed to soft, colorful, glittery pieces in my hand if i so chose...

So should i be using the ultem disc to try and cut back on heat transfer to the mod, or should i just up the resistance of my builds or use an Atty that won't get so hot? Anyone have experience warping or melting resin material?
 

VictorViper

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Yeah to make myself feel better about the purchase, I'm telling myself i bought a diy squonk kit for $40, which is a great deal to me. But even once the whole thing has had all the parts replaced, I'm still left with this "resin" body that feels like it could be crushed to soft, colorful, glittery pieces in my hand if i so chose...

So should i be using the ultem disc to try and cut back on heat transfer to the mod, or should i just up the resistance of my builds or use an Atty that won't get so hot? Anyone have experience warping or melting resin material?

Certainly couldn't hurt. If the resin used is that soft, then it makes sense that any heat transferring to the 510 base would be mitigated by just about anything placed in between. Ultem is a good option for that purpose.
 
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inswva

Do you even squonk, bro?
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I've never had a resin mod but I had a 3D printed Mokooo Neon which warped. I was able to carefully apply heat to it with my heat gun and correct the warp. I wasn't thrilled about spending $250 on a mod that warped within a week, lol. Same method would probably work for resin but I'd be really conservative with how much heat is applied.
 
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