Alekos Box with Copper accent

[Quigsworth]

I got this box from Alekos a while back and it's been 3/4's built since I got it, I was waiting for my flush switches and I just didn't want to commit to finishing till I figured out what form factor my homebrewed Meatsneaker atty's where going to be (as it turns out, I got 3 different pairs of assorted audio jacks that will all work and they're all over the map size wise...so, stick em on top). I usually wrap 1.7 +/- coils, I just wanted batt voltage and wanted to have some decent run time...plus look pretty. These are brand new TF's, and will be paired till death (like Mallard Ducks) to keep them as balanced as possible voltage wise...also, I read somewhere on here that if you're running parallel's to swap the "lead" batt every charge...I have to say, I still can't wrap my head around that concept, but sure, sounds like a plan...
again, big thanks to Alekos for the box

 

[Robert T]

I like his boxes(a lot) I keep his thread open on my iPad all the time so I can easily check it every day. The copper top looks sharp. How do you like the RCA drip Atty?

Very nice.

 

[Quigsworth]

I like the copper top for an entirely different reason...it's called drilling the switch hole using the wrong mark, friends shouldn't let friends drink and mod ...I almost cried, but it turned out pretty good, as far as the drip atty's...I just shake my head thinking about how much money I've spent on devices...I built two at the same time, took me an hour (I have a lathe at work which helps huge), they're awesome, 2 mins to rebuild (I just use ceramic wick) they're like little baby Ody's

 

[Robert T]

Well, I can't mod if I don't drink. lol The copper top should give the connector some added(needed) support so it's all good.

 

[asdaq]

Gives it a nice flair and the extra stability is a bonus too. You used a lathe to sand down the solder joint or something else? I agree about the high cost of rebuildables, but for machined parts and stuff I can't possibly do that sort of justifies it.

 

[slimest]

What a beautiful thing! You could also make copper darker, using usual iodine from a pharmacy, mixed with water (approx 1:5 - 1:10). After that copper looks like old

 

[Quigsworth]

You used a lathe to sand down the solder joint or something else? I agree about the high cost of rebuildables, but for machined parts and stuff I can't possibly do that sort of justifies it.

These weren't "RCA" jacks they are female in-line 1/8" stereo jacks...I grabbed my favourite drill bit (fits exactly inside a carto tube) put the jacks on the lathe and bored out the entire jack...then unscrewed it and dumped out all the pieces of jack guts...I love having access to a lathe that's 5 mins away, it'd be cool if it was actually in my shop but it's pretty big...I'm still looking at this...

 

[WillyB]

also, I read somewhere on here that if you're running parallel's to swap the "lead" batt every charge...I have to say,

That should read series. The purpose is to try to age the cells equally as they will discharge at a slightly different rate. In parallel it's not a concern.

 

[Quigsworth]

Ah, thanks Willy, my bad...now you've got me thinking about my VV's, hmmm, ah well those TF 18350's I've got now are about ready for the recycle bin anyway...time to pick up 3-4 sets and this time I'll number them 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B, etc...and swap who goes on top each cycle, are those black flame TF's a good batt or should I be looking at something else for VV's?

 

[Quigsworth]

What a beautiful thing! You could also make copper darker, using usual iodine from a pharmacy, mixed with water (approx 1:5 - 1:10). After that copper looks like old

That's a great idea, I was just going to let it patina on it's own but that just creates verdigris which isn't the best thing to have going to your mouth on a regular basis...I also found some Mahogany veneer to cover the "glue pool"