All Mechanical- a flaw in thinking.

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Firefly13

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Thanks Golden, this has really been an awesome thread. Now I have some other ideas of what I'd like to try. If this thread had not come about, I would not know what other (best) choices I'd have available.

:D I have a p10 on the way, waiting on the ShockWave to be released! I like all mechanical! :p

At some point, I will try some other mods, but I'll revisit this thread first!

Grammie, i own the GG slim which is the GG equivalent of the P10, make sure you use the IMR10440 batteries !!! I used to use the trustfire protected ones and they performed so horribly, the IMR10440's i got work so much better.
 

Java_Az

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I think design flaws are giving the electrical mods a bad rap. They are not all designed badly but some will leave out parts that the data sheet says are required. There are also commercial mods that use straight up tactile switches no mosfet. Highest rated tactile switch i have ever seen is like 250 ma. well if your continually pumping 1.3 amps threw a 200ma switch it just isn't going to last long. There also seems to be different ideas about what exactly is a mechanical switch. There is a so called switchless mod out there where the maker made his own ( for lack of a better word ) switch. I asked what he called that thingy majig he presses to fire the atomizer and he called it the part he made it out of. Just about all mods use a mechanical switch with the exception of touch switches. Tactile switches are electro mechanical switches. Most people seem to think they are not mechanical. by themselfs completely under rated for vaping yes. But non mechanical no.
 

BuzzKill

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I think design flaws are giving the electrical mods a bad rap. They are not all designed badly but some will leave out parts that the data sheet says are required. There are also commercial mods that use straight up tactile switches no mosfet. Highest rated tactile switch i have ever seen is like 250 ma. well if your continually pumping 1.3 amps threw a 200ma switch it just isn't going to last long. There also seems to be different ideas about what exactly is a mechanical switch. There is a so called switchless mod out there where the maker made his own ( for lack of a better word ) switch. I asked what he called that thingy majig he presses to fire the atomizer and he called it the part he made it out of. Just about all mods use a mechanical switch with the exception of touch switches. Tactile switches are electro mechanical switches. Most people seem to think they are not mechanical. by themselfs completely under rated for vaping yes. But non mechanical no.

A tactile switch is a MECHANICAL switch it uses a dome of metal ( in many cases ) that is deformed by the button to make contact with another metal part to complete the circuit AND they are rarely rated over 250 ma they are NO GOOD for direct switching of 2 amps of current.

That said , a good Tact switch can be used up to 1,000,000 cycles ( we use this type ) I tried calculating how long it should last in a PV and ???? maybe 5 + years under heavy use or 10 yrs under normal use ? BUT some of them are not sealed and getting juice in them can kill them QUICK ( learned that the hard way ! ) so a sealed tact switch is best IMO .
 

o4_srt

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What an interesting thread, it went from a debate of mechanical vs electronic, to cell phones making things explode, to you'll be a great father, and then back to the original debate. All of this has been very insightfull and i thought that all of the arguments had merit except one. There was a statement that a properly built electronic device can be as durable as a mechanical. I will agree that a good electronic device will be plenty reliable for what we use them for, but I will bet my bottom dollar that if we took any electronic device out there right now and dropped it along with a P-18 from a 20 story building that the P-18 would still be in one piece and will fire and the electronc one won't. Ofcourse if you want to try this experiment we will need to use your P-18 not mine :)


you'd be surprised at the testing mil-spec electronic components go through. in addition to the standard ambient testing, testing at -48 degrees celsius, +80 degrees celsius, vibration testing where the units get attached to giant shaker tables and are shaken for hours on end, explosion testing, etc.

i'd be willing to take you up on that bet, provided we use a quality electrical PV, but therein lies the problem. There are very few well designed, well built electronic PV's. Hell, i don't even hold my own PV's to the soldering standards I must follow at work, simply because I am usually excited to make it work and give it a try, and because I know that it's no big deal if I have to get in there to repair a cracked solder joint.

to further, even genuine joye batteries are poor quality, cold solder joints, excess flux all over the PCB that the assembler never cleaned off, improperly stripped wires, etc.
 
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Grammie

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Grammie, i own the GG slim which is the GG equivalent of the P10, make sure you use the IMR10440 batteries !!! I used to use the trustfire protected ones and they performed so horribly, the IMR10440's i got work so much better.

I ordered the batteries from David so they should be the "good ones"! If the dang thing will ever get here!

I have one of the slims and 3 of the 50 super slims!

Told ya I like mechanical!
 
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