All my mods part1

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asdaq

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How bout this: A pill fob for the tank and plate portions, l3oertjie's design for syringe needles to hold the coil and raidy's design for kanthal, wick and overall placement of all the parts. I'm worried about the safety of having the coil near anodized aluminum, but using needles would make for a smaller diameter build.

I know, it's a bit of an atty mash-up, but hey...
 

Gummy Bear

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What do you guys think of carbon fiber mesh? I am thinking that would be a pretty good material selection for this.

Oh Don't even go there. There are people that won't dare cut carbon fiber unless it is under water.

As l3oertjie said: I say "go with the MASTERS choice" Stainless steel. Full stop.
 

raidy

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Kanthal, has aluminum in it's core.

There is a big difference between metals and alloy.
Stainless steel contains chrome and is yet not Toxic.
But chrome is very toxic. Thats the difference fron alloy an pure metals.

salt ist natrium and chlorite. Both is utra toxic, but salt is not toxic (o.k. 15gr Salt kills you).
 
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WillyB

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Amazing stuff Raidy.

Bit I'm still kicking it old style more along the lines of the A-1.

I'd like to know what this fiber is and maybe a link.

raidy_fiber_DSC00504.JPG


Terms like 'Bio-Ofenschnur' lead nowhere.

Thanks
 

roadrash

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How bout this: A pill fob for the tank and plate portions, l3oertjie's design for syringe needles to hold the coil and raidy's design for kanthal, wick and overall placement of all the parts. I'm worried about the safety of having the coil near anodized aluminum,

sorry raidy, was replying to asdaq.
 

asdaq

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Willy, Bio-Ofenschnur is natural oven rope of sorts. I can't recall what makes it natural, but it's used for lining a fireplace door. I got some 6mm. It comes smaller, like the yarn you saw.

roadrash, it seems the anodizing will crack but not peel or flake when heated, but increases the melting point of alu to over 2000C. That sounds reassuring. Since the wick/mesh would go through a drilled hole perforating the anodized layer and will conduct heat from the coil, there is some reason for concern there. However, somewhere in the OT raidy used a piece from a lighter sort of like a napkin ring around the rolled mesh to keep it rolled nice. This was in turn inserted into the plate, and would act as a buffer between the mesh and the fob. If I find the picture I'll post it.

edit: it's the dip tube ferule:

exploded%20lighter%20labeled.jpg
 
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raidy

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The easiest Testgenisis the world

Who wants to test once a genisis that can now do so easily:

eg00gyvar1q8b.jpg


eg01zmcbtg6j5.jpg


1) Take a wine cork.
2) Take a plastic tube into which fits the cork.
3) Cut 1/3 corks and make a hole approximately 2 mm and two small holes for the silver wire.
4) Insert the cork into the tube.
5) Insert the rolled screen into the hole in the cork.
6) Insert the two silver wires into the cork.
7) Wind the Kanthal to the silver wire and bend the ends (see picture 2)
8) Wind the Kanthal 4 times to the screen and then the second wire wrap and bend the ends and press firmly.
9 ) Put the lower cork and out the silver wire (plastic tube out look) .
10 ) make even a hole for liquid fill.
11 Put another piece of pipe as mouthpiece on the upper cork plug.
11) Bring power to the atty and enjoy steam.


Cannot be easier than this!
Keep 5mm distance from Kanthal to the cork.

Enjoy your first own genisis! :)

EDIT: Instead of winding the kanthal you also can use a terminal strip (without the plastic please!)
eg027qdc3jr2k.jpg
 
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