Alumodi, A DNA20 Build

[Visus]

I hope ya isolated each fuse, it doesn't matter as much since batts wont be in and out, but super safe works better bests outcomes.. Mamu was so nice to test it for us tooo.

gonna be awesome in a few minutes

 

[kurtus]

I hope ya isolated each fuse, it doesn't matter as much since batts wont be in and out, but super safe works better bests outcomes.. Mamu was so nice to test it for us tooo.

gonna be awesome in a few minutes

Can you explain this more? I just paralleled the fuses together and spliced in line of the positive. I was under the impression that having them wired this way the batts could draw up to 10 amps then trip since I am using high amperage imr cells with it and no they wont be removed until they are dead from over use. Are you refering to wiring a positive lead from each battery to one end of each fuse then wiring the other ends of the fuses together to a single lead out for the positive? I thought of doing it this way but talked myself out of it, I just thought that by doing it that way the battery would trip easier since each batt would only hold up to 5 amps with it wired that way and would possibly cause an issue tripping if I pulled the full 6 amps the dna20 has to offer. IDK, maybe I over thought this way too much, I need a lesson lol. Thx

Edit, I could rewire the fuses, its just a simple split at the fuse legs on the one side to individually wire each batt but is it really worth it, no big deal to do it but really curious of the benifits.

 

[kurtus]

How did the cradle and screen fit in with the 1.5mm cradle and 2mm body thickness? Also, did you desolder the fire button with desoldering braid?

it was a better fit before the coater layed it on thick, added nearly .5mm in thickness if I had to guess. It did end up being a bonus though because of the way I installed the dna board.

The deepest part of the cradle basically sits flush inside the box with no protruding edges sticking up out of the cutout if that makes sense? This meant that I had to dremel down the side of the cutout 1mm where the ribbon cable and glass display extends past the cradles edge. This was great though because I mounted the dna board by gluing the edges of the big transducer on the opposite side the board from the buttons where it wouldn't contact the display screen, I stuck it down ontop of the gel epoxy glue I used to secure the display into the cradle and didn't have to deal with the board pushing the screen back out of the hole from pressing down on it waiting for it to dry. Hard to explain but I hope this all makes a little sense.

As for the button, I used flush cutters and it basically popped clean off, barely any solder holding it on and you could probably rip it of though I dont recommend that haha

 

[retird]

Guess you read this thread by mamu....

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rcurrent-reverse-polarity-protection-dna.html

 

[kurtus]

No I did not read that but I'm going to right now. Thx

 

[bapgood]

You should be fine with a single set of paralleled fuses. I believe visus is referring to mamu's dual battery/reverse polarity thread that retired linked.

Even if you do end up running two fuses you will want to run two sets of two parallel fuses....like mamu did.

Your setup will still give both over current protection as well as reverse polarity for both batteries installed backwards, but no protection for one battery installed correctly and one installed incorrectly and basically shorting the batteries on each other.

 

[kurtus]

So I scanned through that post and I am now a little bummed out I didnt see that sooner. When I bought my fuses I got a 3 pack of the 3a units thinking I would only need 2 of them in parallel giving me a 6a hold current on the parallel batts. The way I understand it is that I would need 2 sets of parallel fuses, one set on each batt to maintain the 6a hold current or is that incorrect? If I only use one 3a fuse per battery am I only going to achieve a 3a hold for each battery individually? I do really like the idea of reverse polarity protection, I do have 10x of the rgef400 4a units I could use instead but then if I parallel those to each batt I will have a 8a hold and a 13.6a trip, is this too much? I'm sort of assuming it is ok since the fuses are there to protect the batts only which and they will never be rated for lower than 10a regardless what brand goes in it.

 

[kurtus]

You should be fine with a single set of paralleled fuses. I believe visus is referring to mamu's dual battery/reverse polarity thread that retired linked.

Even if you do end up running two fuses you will want to run two sets of two parallel fuses....like mamu did.

Your setup will still give both over current protection as well as reverse polarity for both batteries installed backwards, but no protection for one battery installed correctly and one installed incorrectly and basically shorting the batteries on each other.

Thanks Bap, that just cleared up my last post for me I think I will just leave it as is since I always double check my batteries when I install them plus the batts will be installed for good until they die so the likely hood of this happening is slim to none. If I sell it I may change it up. For curiosity sakes, is 8a hold current too much?

 

[bapgood]

IMO....no.....because likely if there is a problem (battery short or reverse polarity) it's going to happen fast and try to draw much more than the 8 amps and trip the fuse likely as fast as 6 amp fuse. I have ran a 7.5 amp mini blade style fuse and it trips just fine without causing problems to the DNA.

 

[kurtus]

Then I have no issues sir, thank you

 

[Visus]

woot I did not have to type a word
woot bap lol

glad you found the post, its really cool protection and a wow Craig knows his electronics
Mamu parallels then to bring down the mohms, I looked over her fuse specs and have a rudimentary gift link for ya's..
Bourns - Samples Request

check out the specs on their fuses and yes they sent a requested 8 of everything I requested.
I chatted with them over the phone they are a happy people company
They called/email to tell me, 'it would be a few days later than I expected and that was only 5 more days
2 of the pots I ordered were not in stock
normally 3 days to ship or so, it ships from mouser's inventory


MF-RHT450-0
maybe the lowest mohm fuse, I have not found any lower



Parts for Mods

I do own a company so that may be of relevance IDK

 

[mikepetro]

................
MF-RHT450-0
maybe the lowest mohm fuse, I have not found any lower
..............

I am using the Bourns MF-LS340 in the Mod I currently working on.
Min/Max resistance = 0.016/0.027
6.8A trip
They are kind of neat, flat and thin as a sheet of paper.

 

[kurtus]

Very cool guys, thanks for the heads up on all of this.......I just couldn't leave it as it was given my ocd, wasnt loosing any sleep over this either lol.


All 4 legs tied to the positive out lead and then the other side of the fuse legs are paired together and ran to each positive if each battery. Setup with parallel 4a RGEF400 TE conn fuses with a 13.6a trip current and a 8a hold on each battery

 

[Visus]

@Kurtus
Those fuse legs are gorgeous, now visus has solder envy urge to solder something..
@Mike
Those strap fuse specs are the bomb

I had no idea how to mount and use the straps until recent post by Mamu and Craig..

 

[kurtus]

Now onto wiring the beast.
All 20g on the fire, batt and output leads
all 22g on the usb and buttons


Usb connector in place and wired




Lets get some damn batts in this thing already

 

[kurtus]

Thanks Visus

 

[kurtus]

So does it work.....HECK YA

First power up complete, no smoke yay


Firing at 1 ohms just fine


Will it fire 1 ohms at 20 watts, yeah



I dont think I've posted a side profile yet



A shot of her backside



does the usb charger work?



Yes, man those screws are bugging me!!

 

[kurtus]

Poll time lol, I need you help to decide on screws for the back plate on this mod. I just can't decide what to use for screws on this, the coater filled the philips head screws in so they couldn't be used anymore and the robertson screws are not nice looking.

Option 1, zinc plated screws


option 2, stainless screws


option 3, what I'm rocking right now


So all in all I am very please with the build quality of this mod. I wanted to make it so that all parts where easily replacable and also make it so that the back plate could be remove with no strings attached. Pat on the back Kurt, you did a good job...haha

 

[mamu]

Awesome kurtus!!

What you did with the screen frame looks great too.

Well done!

 

[mikepetro]

@Kurtus
Those fuse legs are gorgeous, now visus has solder envy urge to solder something..
@Mike
Those strap fuse specs are the bomb

I had no idea how to mount and use the straps until recent post by Mamu and Craig..

Do you have a link to that post? I am curious how they did it. I just soldered wires to mine then insulated them with electrical tape.