That is a great choice. Mikepetro posted a link to a similar battery many posts back. I may pick one up in a few weeks
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My DNA20 box mod project build
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The length on that battery is 128mm, so it wouldn't fit in the HAmmond 1590B which is 111.9mm long.
I really like the looks of that battery, thanks for the link. I bookmarked the page. Thanks!
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Hey got a coupe questions did you twist the ribbon cable going to the display? Did it put any pressure on it? Also could i get a detailed picture of how you glued the board to the box? Were you cobcerned thats its so permenant? OK last couple did your chi you cap thread on or did you just drill it out and epox it in, and last whats that black tape holding the screen and where the dna 20 is? Sorry for so many questions but i wanted a provari now looks like im planning a build lol
yes....the ribbon cable twists but only so much. if you see the inside where i mounted the chip and display thats about how much it twists...no more. i drilled the hole just slightly bigger than the threads of the topcap. it wont thread in unless i used a tap that same diameter and thread pitch. the black tape i used is gaffers tape. i only did that till i find a better solution to mount the display, gaffers tape hold very well. i will try to post pics tomorrow if the inside.
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Thank you very much appreciate it. Helps a lot planning my build now not copying more like inspiration haha appreciate it a lot. Got tk do more planning then ordering hehe cant wait
Edit holy cow gaffers tape is pricy...
Edit holy cow gaffers tape is pricy...
Threw this together tonight. I still have to drill and create windows for the up/down switches, OLED, and Charging port. Got my DNA20 from A to Z Vapor World. I have to contact them about a small issue that I am experiencing. The display does not switch. When locked, I can press the Fire and Up buttons and the display says "Right Mode". Press the Fire and Down Buttons and the display says "Normal Mode", but it never changes. Also I'm waiting for my stainless steel flattop cap to arrive, so no testing for a few more days.
Anyway, here it is in it's partially assembled form.
[URL=http://s155.photobucket.com/user/SkeeterJeff/media/Vaping%20Images/004_zpsd1308935.jpg.html]
[/URL]
Anyway, here it is in it's partially assembled form.
[URL=http://s155.photobucket.com/user/SkeeterJeff/media/Vaping%20Images/004_zpsd1308935.jpg.html]
[/URL]What top cap ya going with and What fire button is that looks pretty sweet. Still love the idea of a light up fire button but havent found out a way too make it light up yet. Also trying to figure out how to make a plexi glass window for the oled. Trying to plan out way in advanced to avoid hickups.
I have that same button as you red, but flush(got wrong one), I'm gonna use a 16mm flush for button.
This is what I'm gonna use for screen protection.
http://m.lowes.com/product?langId=-...=3143395&store=1196&view=detail&nValue=SEARCH
What I have so far, chi cap, tactile buttons, red box, 16 mm fire button(to thr left of it is the 12mm), evolve charger, battery holders, need wire, and for the DNA30 coop to get started(hope I get in).
This is what I'm gonna use for screen protection.
http://m.lowes.com/product?langId=-...=3143395&store=1196&view=detail&nValue=SEARCH
What I have so far, chi cap, tactile buttons, red box, 16 mm fire button(to thr left of it is the 12mm), evolve charger, battery holders, need wire, and for the DNA30 coop to get started(hope I get in).
Top cap is coming from HERE.
Fire Button came from HERE.
Next one will have a smaller fire button. I had the switch wired where it was lit all of the time, but disconnected it for now. I'll figure out how to get it to light when closed later.
Soldered a Diamond Coil that I built a few weeks ago just for giggles to the +/- output and cranked it up to 20 watts. Worked like a charm.
Jeff
Fire Button came from HERE.
Next one will have a smaller fire button. I had the switch wired where it was lit all of the time, but disconnected it for now. I'll figure out how to get it to light when closed later.
Soldered a Diamond Coil that I built a few weeks ago just for giggles to the +/- output and cranked it up to 20 watts. Worked like a charm.
Jeff
Ugh cant wait to start gathering parts trying to research how to get the fire switch to light up ou when pressed....would be so much easier with parts in hand haha
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Hey just want to point out that's a 12 volt led. It says on the specs 5-12v. It might be too dim or not light at all on 3.7v system. I have the black one with the blue ring, and its the same spec. I will let you know how I cross this bridge when I come to it because I still have parts coming in.
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id like to know too researching like crazy trying to figure out how to get the led to fire when button is used. then i though my finger covers it anyway...BUT I STILL WANT IT! gathering all my parts for my build but havent figured this one out yet...about to just give up
What I did was fold the negitave post for the LED over onto the case and soldered it. Then ran the positive / switched wire to the device, the LED lit.
Also, mine came with a resistor for use with higher voltages.
EDIT: just noticed yours is a little different than mine. Mine is a this one
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=370947965737
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Yeah that's more like the one asidrave has. I was talking to bap about it and I might just throw a 9v in it until I think of something else. The 9v should last a while.
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did the led light when button was pressed or is it just always on.
thought about this just runnign straight from the abttery but its 12v might now have enough power to get much light plus its on off.....but an idea to get the gears turning. a spdt switch with a resistor straight from the battery but will it send any power to the dna. or is the switch separate from the power to the light.
1 Momentary Red Light SPDT on on Switch 12V R11E | eBay
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