Another Battery Question

[carpedebass]

I'm trying to put together everything I need to order for my first mod build. I've pretty much settled on a MV 5V box kit. Probably laughable to all you pro modders, but it's my first so don't laugh too loudly.

The MV site doesn't specify which batts to use for the 5V. I'm assuming 2 14500s. Am I right??

 

[WillyB]

Yes a pair of 14500s.

Do note these work best with higher ohm atties and cartos (stay above 2.4Ω). If you are a fan of smok DCs or Boge 2Ω cartos look elsewhere.

 

[DaveP]

If you haven't already bought, look at the MV vv box mod. For $34.99 you get variable voltage from 0v-7v with the same 14500 batteries. I bought the Trustfire protected 14500s for my vv mod, but later found out that I should have bought the AW 14500 IMR batts, which are safer.

I find that even with a 3 ohm Little Dwarf dripper atty, I get good vapes from the mid range position on the thumbwheel and start to get slightly burnt taste when I crank it past the 2/3 point. I can also use cartos and CE2 clearos on this mod with great results. I like the variable voltage for the flexibility of the vape levels. With 5v, you won't be able to adjust it for different atomizers. With variable voltage, you can use just about any atomizer.

Some will say that the linear voltage regulators generate excess heat when you crank down, due to heat dissipation by the chip. I don't experience this at all. It runs cool regardless of where I set it. You will sense warmth with heavy vaping where the atty screws into the connector, just like an eGo or any other atty. They naturally produce heat.

The Madvapes vv mod produces great plumes of vapor and nice flavorful aroma.

Variable Voltage Box Mod

 

[carpedebass]

Yes a pair of 14500s.

Do note these work best with higher ohm atties and cartos (stay above 2.4Ω). If you are a fan of Smok DCs or Boge 2Ω cartos look elsewhere.

I plan on using DC XXL cartos from Vaping Zone at 2.5 ohm.

If you haven't already bought, look at the MV vv box mod. For $34.99 you get variable voltage from 0v-7v with the same 14500 batteries. I bought the Trustfire protected 14500s for my vv mod, but later found out that I should have bought the AW 14500 IMR batts, which are safer.

I find that even with a 3 ohm Little Dwarf dripper atty, I get good vapes from the mid range position on the thumbwheel and start to get slightly burnt taste when I crank it past the 2/3 point. I can also use cartos and CE2 clearos on this mod with great results. I like the variable voltage for the flexibility of the vape levels. With 5v, you won't be able to adjust it for different atomizers.

Variable Voltage Box Mod

I've actually had a VV box from MV previously and I sold it...been kicking myself square in the tush for it ever since. I plan on replacing it someday, but I want to build it myself. Being an absolute noob in terms of electrical stuff and modding, I figured a box kit would be a good starting point.

 

[bombshellECHO]

Agree with Dave. The madvapes vv box is a very cheap and easy way to get into mods. I believe there's only a few dollars difference between the 2. They both use the same 14500 protected batts. Also as already stated unless you are gonna vape around 4-4.5v stay above 2.4 ohms. I myself found a sweet spot with 3 ohm and 4ohm cartos (depending on the juice and voltage) and trust me that madvapes box will take you a long way.

Happy vaping!

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk

 

[bombshellECHO]

I plan on using DC XXL cartos from Vaping Zone at 2.5 ohm.



I've actually had a VV box from MV previously and I sold it...been kicking myself square in the tush for it ever since. I plan on replacing it someday, but I want to build it myself. Being an absolute noob in terms of electrical stuff and modding, I figured a box kit would be a good starting point.

Sorry didn't see that before I posted lol if you are new to building boxes I would recommend trying to build a 3.7 AA box. It took me a few times doing that before I was able to do a 5v

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk

 

[carpedebass]

Sorry didn't see that before I posted lol if you are new to building boxes I would recommend trying to build a 3.7 AA box. It took me a few times doing that before I was able to do a 5v

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk

Curious...why did it take you a few times? They have step by step instructions available for both. What am I missing here? I'm sure there's something.

 

[Stosh]

Curious...why did it take you a few times? They have step by step instructions available for both. What am I missing here? I'm sure there's something.

The more complex the build = the more ways to shoot yourself in the foot...
Depends a lot on your experience in soldering and following circuit diagrams???

Besides your first mod build will not be your last mod build, you'll find that you want
to move the atty connection a little bit here, the switch fits better there, the led is
annoying and should be moved.......etc.
You will find things you can change to fit your preferences.
And the cost of building a box is 1/10 or less than a fancy pre-built mod.

p.s. the sweetest vape you will ever have is the first off of a mod you built with
you own hands!!!

 

[DaveP]

Something you really have to be careful about is potential shorting of the batteries. You probably noticed that your MV vv mod was completely filled in (potted) with clear silicone sealant in the component channel. That was to eliminate the possibility of shorts occurring across the battery voltage.

I haven't experienced it, but from what I hear, once you hear the batteries spew, explosion follows shortly! I read a post the other day from a guy who said he heard his mod make a hissing sound, threw it in the dish drainer in the kitchen and ran, and didn't get out of the kitchen before it exploded. He found pieces of the batteries and the mod all over the place, some still smoking.

The stories are scary, but don't happen that often. It's usually caused by a short or a defective battery. Protection circuits usually catch it and cut the battery off through a thermal sensor that monitors internal temps or a thermal fuse that detects over current. The batteries are similar technology to those found in a laptop computer.

Here's a youtube video of a guy who made his own vv mod using parts and a schematic from the Madvapes web site. I wouldn't use a metal case, though, without lining it with a non-conductive material.
variable voltage mod w/VV board kit from MadVapes - YouTube

Variable Voltage Regulator Board Kit Rev 2
http://www.madvapes.com/Variable-Voltage-Regulator-Board-Kit-Rev-2_p_2994.html

This thread might be helpful in assembling a vv mod.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/madvapes/166493-how-make-vv-boxmod-madvapes-stuff-3.html

Here's a jpg that shows the wiring connections for the board and parts in pictorial format.
http://www.madvapes.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/rev2_drawing.jpg&maxx=300&maxy=0

 

[carpedebass]

Something you really have to be careful about is potential shorting of the batteries. You probably noticed that your MV vv mod was completely filled in (potted) with clear silicone sealant in the component channel. That was to eliminate the possibility of shorts occurring across the battery voltage.

I haven't experienced it, but from what I hear, once you hear the batteries spew, explosion follows shortly! I read a post the other day from a guy who said he heard his mod make a hissing sound, threw it in the dish drainer in the kitchen and ran, and didn't get out of the kitchen before it exploded. He found pieces of the batteries and the mod all over the place, some still smoking.

The stories are scary, but don't happen that often. It's usually caused by a short or a defective battery. Protection circuits usually catch it and cut the battery off through a thermal sensor that monitors internal temps or a thermal fuse that detects over current. The batteries are similar technology to those found in a laptop computer.

Whoo weee!! I've heard the stories. I plan on filling mine in with JB Quick or something similar. I think that's what my old VV box had in it...sure looked like it.

 

[DaveP]

Whoo weee!! I've heard the stories. I plan on filling mine in with JB Quick or something similar. I think that's what my old VV box had in it...sure looked like it.

JB Quik might be overkill, since it hardens. The silicone sealant used for RTV (radio tv) applications is non-conductive, heat resistant, and safe. Since it hardens to a soft state, it also provides some shock resistance if you drop the mod.

 

[carpedebass]

JB Quik might be overkill, since it hardens. The silicone sealant used for RTV (radio tv) applications is non-conductive, heat resistant, and safe. Since it hardens to a soft state, it also provides some shock resistance if you drop the mod.

Good point. It's likely much less expensive to boot...and I already have some.

 

[WillyB]

... should have bought the AW 14500 IMR batts, which are safer.

Some will say that the linear voltage regulators generate excess heat when you crank down, due to heat dissipation by the chip. I don't experience this at all. It runs cool regardless of where I set it. You will sense warmth with heavy vaping where the atty screws into the connector, just like an eGo or any other atty. They naturally produce heat.

Why are the IMRs safer? Have you seen or read any real reports of folks having problems with standard 14500's? If you happen to have a bad charger, without a protection circuit to cut off the volts what's gonna happen with that IMR as it cooks?

Have you seen the most notorious example (maybe the only) of battery failure on these forums? It's a IMR 18650.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-battery-failure-imr-18650-a.html#post3265928

And when it comes to heat, you make it sound like some sort of old's wives tale. If you understand how these linears work, it's obvious the heat is real and with fresh cells can be quite extreme. A linear has to burn off/dissipate the excess as heat. If you have 8V in and you have your output set at 4V, the difference of 4V is being converted to heat in the regulator just like the output 4V is being converted to heat by the atty. That is also why linears are so inefficient. Instead of dole out what's needed line a switching reg does, it just burns off the difference between input and output.

These linear regs need to breath, need some air and a heat sink. They should not be 'potted' with some insulating layer of goo. And as far as I can tell MadVapes is probably using hot melt glue, not silicone.

This is the copy from their 5V how-to.

Apply hot glue over the electronics and switch to keep everything protected and in place.

 

[carpedebass]

Why are the IMRs safer? Have you seen or read any real reports of folks having problems with standard 14500's? If you happen to have a bad charger, without a protection circuit to cut off the volts what's gonna happen with that IMR as it cooks?

Have you seen the most notorious example (maybe the only) of battery failure on these forums? It's a IMR 18650.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-battery-failure-imr-18650-a.html#post3265928

And when it comes to heat, you make it sound like some sort of old's wives tale. If you understand how these linears work, it's obvious the heat is real and with fresh cells can be quite extreme. A linear has to burn off/dissipate the excess as heat. If you have 8V in and you have your output set at 4V, the difference of 4V is being converted to heat in the regulator just like the output 4V is being converted to heat by the atty. That is also why linears are so inefficient. Instead of dole out what's needed line a switching reg does, it just burns off the difference between input and output.

These linear regs need to breath, need some air and a heat sink. They should not be 'potted' with some insulating layer of goo. And as far as I can tell MadVapes is probably using hot melt glue, not silicone.

This is the copy from their 5V how-to.

Forgive me for being obtuse, but are you saying that I should use hot glue rather than RTV silicone? You pretty much lost me at "Why."

 

[WillyB]

To maybe stabilize/protect some components is one thing, but something like this is silly and counter productive.