Another dang protank question/advice needed...

[cramptholomew]

Hi all,
So, I've had my first protanks for a little more than a week, and have become discouraged with the airflow. I'm running them on an SVD, and a mech. The airflow is TIGHT, to say the least. I've rebuilt coil after coil, and wick after wick. Tried only tightening them until they're JUST BARELY secure. That helps slightly, but the draw is still too tight for my liking. Has anyone else had this issue? Any fix, or is it just that way?

It seems that the only air hole would be through the bottom of the coil head connection, and having a sealed 510 connection in both devices would be the culprit... Am I correct in my assumption, or am I missing something?

Edit: they're full size Protank 2s

 

[crxess]

Nope, look at the Base - the Protank has 3 side holes above the 510 threads. these are to channel air to the center hole.

Are these the Protank or Protank 2?
Protank 2 holes are 1/2 the diameter of the PT1 holes.

Don't tighten down the protank or you can Block the air flow.
Simple Test:
Draw on Protank - off SVD - how is draw? should be airy/loose
Place PT on SVD - Draw tight?
Loosen slightly to keep contact but loosen PT - Draw come back?

Possible solutions:
1)Raise SVD center pin if possible(tiny screwdriver or paper clip)
2)Order replacement Original Protank Base(larger holes)
3)install Air flow controller on SVD*
4)enlarge side holes on your base

 

[cramptholomew]

Don't tighten down the protank or you can Block the air flow.
Simple Test:
Draw on Protank - off SVD - how is draw? should be airy/loose
Place PT on SVD - Draw tight?
Loosen slightly to keep contact but loosen PT - Draw come back?

Possible solutions:
1)Raise SVD center pin if possible(tiny screwdriver or paper clip)
2)Order replacement Original Protank Base(larger holes)
3)install Air flow controller on SVD*
4)enlarge side holes on your base

I did see those little holes above the threads, but I thought they'd be too small to really be functional.

I'm wondering if its also how tightly I'm screwing the coil head assembly into the base. I have had to screw it in as tightly as possible, otherwise the positive connection doesn't touch the connection on the SVD. The SVD has a spring loaded positive pin, that it wider than the protank 510 connector. Maybe I'll try loosening the very bottom post of the coil head to try to make up for that.

Thanks for your advice, I appreciate it.

 

[yo419g0tamin]

don't enlarge the holes it causes very bad leaking if you do.

 

[yo419g0tamin]

I did see those little holes above the threads, but I thought they'd be too small to really be functional.

I'm wondering if its also how tightly I'm screwing the coil head assembly into the base. I have had to screw it in as tightly as possible, otherwise the positive connection doesn't touch the connection on the SVD. The SVD has a spring loaded positive pin, that it wider than the protank 510 connector. Maybe I'll try loosening the very bottom post of the coil head to try to make up for that.

Thanks for your advice, I appreciate it.

I used a tank airflow controller to fix my problem on my provari works great.
The tank airflow controller is around a $3 adapter.

 

[scalewiz]

I use a 510 to ego adapter. With the mini protank, they are needed of course, since they use the large ego threads. With the full size protank, you can use a cone to cover the ego threads. I tried to enlarge the small holes above the 510 threads, but it doesn't make any difference; the air comes up through the center hole.

Just bought a Smok e-pipe today and immediately discovered that the larger Protank won't work on it either; must use that adapter or the mini Protank.

 

[UntamedRose]

might be a dumb Q........but WTH lets try....you didnt ditch the small rubber clear piece that came on it right?

 

[sze5003]

Good idea actually. Not sure if my protank 2 came with a rubber piece. I don't see it. I was watching tv and it was dark when I opened up my protank 2 box so I'm not sure if it fell and I didn't see it somewhere. My tank is pretty airy though.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

 

[crxess]

don't enlarge the holes it causes very bad leaking if you do.

We are talking about the side air holes on the 510 connector - nothing to do with liquid. They increase/decrease AIR FLOW!

Op, you can wiggle the protank center pin down about 1mm - Not the grommet it sits in, just the head of the center pin. That is a common issue on kanger tanks.

 

[cramptholomew]

might be a dumb Q........but WTH lets try....you didnt ditch the small rubber clear piece that came on it right?

Which one? There are lots of rubber pieces...

 

[yo419g0tamin]

We are talking about the side air holes on the 510 connector - nothing to do with liquid. They increase/decrease AIR FLOW!

Op, you can wiggle the protank center pin down about 1mm - Not the grommet it sits in, just the head of the center pin. That is a common issue on kanger tanks.

Yes I am talking about the air holes on the 510 connection just above the threads, if you enlarge the holes it will leak badly.

 

[DasBluCig]

Check that center hole on the bottom of the coil....Does it have a "chamfer" -type cut ACROSS the hole?
If NOT..... that's likely why no air is getting up to the tube.....I found this out when I compared a "bad" coil to a known "good" one...
What to do?
1) Pitch the "bad" coil and just use a new one....out ~$1.....
2) Cut a slot across the hole with a Dremel grinding wheel....out (maybe) 10 minutes time (assuming, of course, you HAVE a Dremel....if not, use a hacksaw blade or file.....)
Good Luck!

 

[JeremyR]

Yeah if the center pin isn't slotted its defective. I opened up 2 of the little holes on the side of the 510.anything you can
Stick in and work around will enlarge them. I had no leaking issues and it does loosen the draw. Take the coil head out first! Also you can slot the svd or enlarge the protank slots with a dremmel.