another question about hot batteries.

[erictho]

so i've recently received a precise + 18500 and i am using imr 18500 1500 mah batteries.
i use a large o-ring and two washers to secure everything under the top cap. i keep an eye on my batteries, and they're not on the charger any longer than i need to. the charge is not continual, and my charger senses when the batteries are full. i also rest my batteries and have 3 in my current rotation.
today i was vaping with a coworker, and suddenly my battery appeared to overheat. the switch was super hot and i ended up disarticulating everything for a while so it could chill out. after that incident i was able to vape for a little while longer before it died. i rested it a bit and threw it on the charger.
later today at my venue i needed to change my battery. i was using my pv for hours issue free. when i got home i went to change a flavor and i was having the same issue again.
both times i replaced with a rested fully charged battery after the precise itself had cooled down, but the other battery seemed to overheat right away.
i don't really understand what's happening here, and i'm not sure whether i'm doing something wrong with the mod or if it's an issue i need to take up with my battery supplier.
also, i'm pretty cautious about the length of time i engage a button, even when i feel as if the hit wasn't quite "satisfying". i always lock when out of use as well.
thanks in advance for the advice.

 

[snork]

When you say "i use a large o-ring and two washers to secure everything under the top cap" I just want to make sure how you have that arranged, it's a little misleading. So you have two washers on the button post, and your thick o-ring is at the bottom of the unit under the battery, and you're inserting your battery negative end first into the top of the mod so it drops onto the o-ring? Sorry if that sounds so basic, but your wording made me ask.

 

[forcedfuel50]

so i've recently received a precise + 18500 and i am using imr 18500 1500 mah batteries.
i use a large o-ring and two washers to secure everything under the top cap. i keep an eye on my batteries, and they're not on the charger any longer than i need to. the charge is not continual, and my charger senses when the batteries are full. i also rest my batteries and have 3 in my current rotation.
today i was vaping with a coworker, and suddenly my battery appeared to overheat. the switch was super hot and i ended up disarticulating everything for a while so it could chill out. after that incident i was able to vape for a little while longer before it died. i rested it a bit and threw it on the charger.
later today at my venue i needed to change my battery. i was using my pv for hours issue free. when i got home i went to change a flavor and i was having the same issue again.
both times i replaced with a rested fully charged battery after the precise itself had cooled down, but the other battery seemed to overheat right away.
i don't really understand what's happening here, and i'm not sure whether i'm doing something wrong with the mod or if it's an issue i need to take up with my battery supplier.
also, i'm pretty cautious about the length of time i engage a button, even when i feel as if the hit wasn't quite "satisfying". i always lock when out of use as well.
thanks in advance for the advice.

what brand and size of battery are you using?
Also, do you think you have a shorting atomizer, certain brands are easy to overtighten and push the center pin of the atomizer up into the atomizer body causing a short? Replace atomizer if so.

 

[erictho]

ok. i got my precise + from happy vaper, and the washers included did not fit over the button post on the bottom cap. so i thought by process of elimination that the washers were going undert the top cap where the atomizer/cartos are articulated. i didn't really get any instructions with this, and have been unable to find instructions with pictures online. if i don't use an o-ring/washer combo on the top cap it seems the button depresses more than it needs to and the battery jiggles around. so in total i have one thin washer under the cap with the button(negative side cap), the thick o ring on the positive side of the battery, along with the washers. at first i thought maybe the +/- terminals were reversed, but they were in there properly.
i'm not sure what brand of battery i'm using, here's the link to the product page: IMR18500 Chemically Safe Li-ion 3.7V 1500mAh Rechargeable Battery
i'm using smotech dcc cartos in a tank with a 510-510 adapter. are they prone to the same shorting?
i noticed that the particular tank with the flavor i wanted to use is the carto i'm having issue with. but i've been using it for a little while without problem and it seemed kind of random. i should likely toss it, then?

 

[snork]

Now we're getting somewhere!
The o-ring *must* go under the battery! It's bound to short out if the battery is sitting directly on the metal of the bottom of the unit, especially if it's being squished down by an o-ring placed between the top cap and the battery. I wouldn't use it if you don't have the proper parts and have it arranged properly. If you need o-rings or washers pm me and I'll send you some quick.
I'm at work so I gotta go, but maybe you could search for forcedfuel50 on YouTube. David has some videos about the o-rings and washers.

 

[Greenbox619]

Super T actually sells a parts kit with the o-rings and washers you need to get your PrecisePlus running properly.

Refresh the page if they don't show, they are towards the bottom of the page: Super T Manufacturing, Innovative manufacturer of electronic cigarette products.

 

[forcedfuel50]

The metal washers are for under the switch contact post, which unscrews from the bottom button with a flat screwdriver. No washers belong anywhere near the top cap. Oring goes under the battery, it should have come pre-installed in the unit. I am having an exploded view of the PrecisePlus drawn up that i will post up when it is done and you should have received directions. Shoot me a PM with your email address and i'll get you out some.

Here is the bottom button screw in post that the washers go under. Just unscrew it with a flat screwdriver. Add washer(s) to shorten the throw or remove them to lengthen the throw:

 

[forcedfuel50]

Also, that battery you are using i would replace with a genuine AW P18500 battery and use one thick (.100) oring under the battery, it'll outperform that battery you have by a wide margin both in mAh and in it's ability to hold higher under voltage.

The Oring goes under the battery and is pressed all the way down in and rests on a ledge on the bottom of the tube. Watch this video as it explains how orings can be changed in the Precise (this is for the Kick, but the same principle applies):

 

[erictho]

thank you!
it did come pre-installed with the little o-ring on the bottom, and one washer on that end. for some reason i didn't think that that particular piece was a screw, and it turns out it was a little loose as well. to get the throw i like i fitted three washers there.
i thought my previous assembly was really off the mark, but like i said i was a bit confused over the information that i did have.
also, i'm a little unable to watch videos on this computer, so sometimes they're not always the best way for me to research.

 

[forcedfuel50]

thank you!
it did come pre-installed with the little o-ring on the bottom, and one washer on that end. for some reason i didn't think that that particular piece was a screw, and it turns out it was a little loose as well. to get the throw i like i fitted three washers there.
i thought my previous assembly was really off the mark, but like i said i was a bit confused over the information that i did have.
also, i'm a little unable to watch videos on this computer, so sometimes they're not always the best way for me to research.

The reason you had to add washers and an oring (and the extra oring you addded should not be on top of the battery, it should be under the battery stacked on top of the other if it isn't already, wasn't sure by your original post) is because that battery is shorter then the recommended AW P18500 battery (black colored ones). You'll find the AW P18500 outperforms off brand IMR batteries like the one you are using anyway. If you get the correct battery, you can go back to the original setup which is one thick oring and one washer under the switch post. Hope that helps!

David

 

[erictho]

i definitely think i misread what counted as recommended and thought those fell under that category. these batteries that i have now do kind of blow, and that makes sense.
should i be concerned about any safety issues in the meantime? i will place an order for them the next time i am paid.

 

[CPT.SPALDING]

The AW batteries are well worth the little bit of extra cash.