Anybody Using A Kabuki?

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Zen~

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while your here, are you closer to Maine than ProVape? that beta might find its way to me soon and will want an update.

Yeah, NY is a LOT closer than Washington State... Your P3 would be updated and packed in less than 20 minutes and leave the same day it arrives at my shop. If you shipped your P3 for updates to me on a Monday, you would have it back by Friday or Saturday.
 

Katdarling

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Which are the ones that people used those nifty drip shields?

Ahhhhhh....... the beautiful and sexy 901 attIEs.

And one of the kings of atomizers, , , Ikenvape.

Atomizers



You can still buy these??!!!

You actually CAN. Here's a site, but with some searching I'll bet you'll find a few more. :)

510 Bridged Atomizers (single coil) [510-bridged-atomizer-sc-blk] - $4.75 : ECIGSPLUS.com, Discount Supplier for Electronic Cigarettes and Supplies
 

The Ocelot

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Great article, very informative and interesting, do these 306 come with a BF hole. I, like you, use the REO and Provari - the best of both worlds and these little atomizers intrigue me. Where do you get them?

Yes, they have a hole in the bottom. Actually, unless it specifically says the bottom (or post) is sealed, all of these types of attys have holes.

I mostly use Joye LR306s (as in Joy, Joyetech, whatever the vendor wants to call them), because I got them from Vapor Kings in bulk, but it doesn't appear they carry LR or sell them in bulk anymore; their prices are too high for singles of that grade IMO.

This is a nice atty: LR306 Low Resistance Bridgeless 1.5ohm Atomizer (Cisco Spec)

ETA: As far as price, keep in mind that if you take care of them, they last a long time. I'm still using a couple that are 3 years old.
 
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The Ocelot

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Which are the ones that people used those nifty drip shields?

That would be a 510. The 306 doesn't have a jacket, so the drip tip goes on the outside (check my blog). I have never used a drip shield, they didn't exist when I started vaping. I was happily dripping away on my eGo until I got a ProVari. I still tell people it's the easiest way to try new flavors - drip, taste, blow-out - it's less fiddly than RDAs.
 

MsLoud

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That would be a 510. The 306 doesn't have a jacket, so the drip tip goes on the outside (check my blog). I have never used a drip shield, they didn't exist when I started vaping. I was happily dripping away on my eGo until I got a ProVari. I still tell people it's the easiest way to try new flavors - drip, taste, blow-out - it's less fiddly than RDAs.
Yes, read your blog! Thanks for that - very cool info!
 

jwbnyc

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Great article, very informative and interesting, do these 306 come with a BF hole. I, like you, use the REO and Provari - the best of both worlds and these little atomizers intrigue me. Where do you get them?

You can get 306 with sealed or unsealed bottoms.

I like the open ones.

I've always used the Avid Vaper 306.

Pricey, but they last a long time as long as you don't drop them.

You also need an Honest-To-Dog drip tip as opposed to what we call a drip tip now.

Avid does a deal (by their standards) on Two 306 and a drip tip.
 

jwbnyc

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Which are the ones that people used those nifty drip shields?

You can use either but you want the longer drip tip with a 306 if you are going to use a shield.

I never use a shield with mine. Just stick it on a 2.5 and vape. If you don't over-drip and clean the atty after each use you won't need one.
 
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The Ocelot

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You can get 306 with sealed or unsealed bottoms.

Note to Reo users: you have to get the unsealed bottoms to work with bottom-feeders. I have always used the unsealed ones on all my devices (I'm not sure there were sealed ones when I started vaping). Our battery devices are sealed anyway, so it doesn't matter if a few drops leak out, but honestly, since you only drip in a small amount of liquid it vaporizes so quickly it's not really an issue.

I find the "old style" dripping very relaxing. It has a ritualistic feel to it.
 
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h00ligan

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Add 3-5% Distilled Water to your high VG liquid, all will be fine.
The uneven coil doesn't matter... Really... it doesn't.

Don't judge a book by its cover... read it!
Judge the coil by the flavor and performance, not how it looks.
The uneven coils ice used have all heated unevenly and while that is largely irrelevant when a wick is saturated the instructions for this are to dry burn where it would matter. I guess I can try diluting with distilled water. Never done that. Is the flavor changed? If assume it would have to be ?

I guess I'll I've it a shot but my theory is either part of it will not be able to be cleaned well with dry burn or to clean it all a part will either break the wire or char the silica (charred silica takes effort). That's the end theory. That I won't be able to dry burn it clean due to very uneven heating.


I'll be the bullet and test the theory. And I'll post video results when I try to clean with a. Dry burn per the Cisco instructions.

That's said in not a huge silica fan but I'll see how it fares in this application. Where I don't like it typically is much higher watts
 
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h00ligan

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The P3 Kabuki has no pin like the 510 does.

It's contact is make with the bottom of the coil.

Much better in my opinion, if you have a P3 device to use it on.

Jim
Yah I have to say the 510 pinks definitely the weak spot in the kabuki. Especially how the j suitor gets pushed out.


@zen is it possible to buy a different base only for a p3 connection ? I guess I too may bite he billet. I can't get he center pin to stay it constantly loosens up.

Method. I've been changing the coil with it unscrewed. Tightening it u too some resistance is met. Any more than that and the insulator comes out. But it does t seem to be tight enough to stay. I've also been having issues changing it between devices. So I guess I'd rather get the p3 base and lock it to that.

Is that possible?
 

Zen~

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Yah I have to say the 510 pinks definitely the weak spot in the kabuki. Especially how the j suitor gets pushed out.


@zen is it possible to buy a different base only for a p3 connection ? I guess I too may bite he billet. I can't get he center pin to stay it constantly loosens up.

Method. I've been changing the coil with it unscrewed. Tightening it u too some resistance is met. Any more than that and the insulator comes out. But it does t seem to be tight enough to stay. I've also been having issues changing it between devices. So I guess I'd rather get the p3 base and lock it to that.

Is that possible?

Since you have a problem with your 510 base, I would trade you for a P3 base.
 

h00ligan

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Since you have a problem with your 510 base, I would trade you for a P3 base.
Oh I'd appreciate that. Very much. Can you pm me how I should send the old one in?

To the Cisco spec coil
--//
In an attempt to be open minded I mounted the rebuilt coil. As expected it's terrible. Shows shorted most of the time. The bottom "plug" as you all know should be pretty tight but it's not. So the coil is spinning inside. I could see from the top it was touching. If I soon it around in sure I can find a place it am doesn't short but hen screwing it I will cause it to spin more.

So I'd have to say confirmed it's a poorly made piece. They offered to return it prior to my trying it. Hope that still stands! Anyway I don't feel it's worth trying for anyone else with a kabuki. Just my $.02. There isn't enough care put into the rebuild to be sure of getting one that will work. Unless I happened to get a one in a long shot lemon. Confirmed it won't even wick a 69% vg juice I have for the brief time I could get it to fire. Could be the shelled holes not sure. It's not for me obviously. The new nautilus coils are too good to muck about I suppose.

Obviously YMMV I can only relay what happened with the one I bought.
 
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