Anybody Using A Kabuki?
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Suddenly a certain song by twolivecrew started to auto play in me noggin'
And yet no video doth appear here?
@LouisLeBeau - what are YOU doing here?
not happenin'!
Hey thanks for the offer friend, but I live in Australia and I'm sure the postage would be ridiculously expensive even for a cuppla tiny little drip tips, but I'll PM you my details anyway.
Cheers
I use profile 1 in my Provari for nautilus 1.6ohm BVC coils. No boost. It's set at 8 watts and I rarely increase the wattage from that except for up to a max of 8.4 watts. Haven't needed any extra.
And Yes of course I prime my coils by pre soaking them down the centre, and also soaking the wicking holes.
Then I fill the tank, install the base, and stand the Provari vertical for at least 10 mins before my first hit.
The first couple of hits are usually a little bit damp and gurgly so I know there is plenty of juice in there.
The new coil I installed last night after I posted my above message has already developed a burnt taste and I'm not even finished the first tank of juice, so I've just installed a triton mini 1.2 ohm coil and am currently waiting for it to prime while I type this.
And I've had the Kanger tank on for a while today too. Exact same juice, and the coil in it is at least 3 weeks old. No burnt taste at all.
I'm beginning to think I've got a dud 5 pack of nautilus BVC coils because this is becoming a bit ridiculous changing coils so often.
At least if it is a dud pack they'll be all used up in a few days at the current rate of "failure".
Couple more days before my Kayfun 5 arrives and I'll be done with the kabuki I think....which is a real shame considering how beautifully made it is, and how great it looks on my beloved Procyon.
I've recently repaired my "broken" Kanger Kbox mini so I think I'll retire the kabuki to alternative flavour duty on that mod (I have several other flavoured juices that I occasionally Vape just for something a bit different from my all day Vape on the Provari)
And I'd just like to add that after opening up the Kbox mini to do the repair I was a little shocked at just how crappy Kanger build their mods if this is anything to go by.
The word "junk" comes to mind LOL
And, profile 2 is the one I use for aspire 1.2ohm triton mini coils.
They are clearly labeled "15 - 20 watts" so I have profile 2 set for 15watts with No Boost, and I only increase the wattage a little (max 16 watts) from there after a few hours vaping, but only if needed.
Better airflow for direct lung with these coils, but my first one developed a burnt taste within a cuppla tanks, so I'm seeing a bit of a pattern with aspire coils/kabuki in general.
Once again, zero burnt taste with ANY of my Kanger coils, or the mini RBA, so it's not the juice, or the Provari causing this issue
They are clearly labeled "15 - 20 watts" so I have profile 2 set for 15watts with No Boost, and I only increase the wattage a little (max 16 watts) from there after a few hours vaping, but only if needed.
Better airflow for direct lung with these coils, but my first one developed a burnt taste within a cuppla tanks, so I'm seeing a bit of a pattern with aspire coils/kabuki in general.
Once again, zero burnt taste with ANY of my Kanger coils, or the mini RBA, so it's not the juice, or the Provari causing this issue
I've had my kabuki for a few weeks now. I bought it based on popularity and hype surrounding it's supposedly superior flavour.
I'm not a cloud chaser, and flavour is the most important thing to me.
Prior to the kabuki I was using a Kanger top tank mini on my Provari Procyon. It is a black tank and never screwed down flush with the top of the Provari, leaving a .5mm gap, which was a generally unappealing experience aesthetically.
Here in Australia I needed to pay $124 + shipping for the kabuki which is no small chunk O cash, so I had hoped I would get a very noticeable flavour increase over the Kanger tank.
Being able to recall user settings to suit a tank/coil setup on the Provari allowed me to quickly swap between the Kanger and Kabuki to compare flavour, but unfortunately there has been little if any noticeable flavour improvement from the kabuki. Exact same juice used in each tank. Money wasted from a flavour perspective.
The SS kabuki does however look a million bucks on the SS Provari compared to the black finish of the Kanger, so that's a nice positive...albeit a Very expensive positive.
Another couple of negatives I've found with the kabuki is the aspire nautilus BVC coils develop a slight burnt taste in less than a week of use (1.6ohm coil at 8.4 watts) A problem I've never had with the Kanger coils, or the Kanger mini RBA, both of which give me at least 2-3 weeks of use with zero burnt flavour.
I've also purchased a box of Apsire 1.2ohm Triton mini kanthal coils which fit and work perfectly in the kabuki at a recommended 15-20watts, but even they develop a burnt taste after a few days use, set at their recommended minimum 15watts.
I do however like the more open draw on the triton mini coils compared to the nautilus BVC's, but at $15 - $18 per pack of 5 it will become VERY expensive in the long term to continue buying aspire coils for the kabuki especially considering less than a week of use per coil before the horrid burnt taste sets in compared to a few cents per rebuild on the Kanger, and the Kayfun clone I have just purchased...
The other negative with the Kabuki is a VERY Minor one but worth mentioning anyway.
I really like the feel and look of the standard kabuki drip tip...except that the end that pushes into the tank looks like it was cut with a blunt kitchen knife by a child.
Very crooked (see pic) and not something I would expect on such a revered high dollar tank.
No it doesn't affect performance at all, but I see it every time I remove it to invert the kabuki for filling
And the lack in availability of a decent rebuildable deck for the kabuki has helped me decide to buy a Tobeco Kayfun V5 clone (can't find any genuine Kayfun V5's here in Australia) to replace the kabuki as my main tank. Should arrive tomorrow, and was less than half the cost of the generally disappointing kabuki.
So that's my kabuki story. Just sayin'
I'm sorry you've had bad luck with the Kabuki and the Nautilus coils. My experience has been just the opposite to the point where I'm using more than a dozen Kabukis, all with 1.8ohm Nautilus coils, and the power set between nine and 10 watts at no boost on P3s and Radii. The one exception is a 1.8 Triton Mini Clapton coil, which I'm running at 12 watts and the boost at three. Of all of my Kabuki setups the one Triton one gives the best flavor. The downside is with my ADV it goes through a lot of juice and the coil only lasts a couple of fills, so I use it sparingly.
With a couple of out-of-the-house setups I'm running zero flavor 50-50 juice from Heather's Heavenly Vapes. The Nautilus coils with "clear" juice just run forever, at least a month or more with daily use.
18 months ago or so Aspire did change from ceramic coils to cotton ones. The first batches were so bad that I gave up on my Nautilus tanks and went to Kanger Minis with the newer 1.5ohm coils. Those were good until the Texas heat hit and ALL of the Kanger tanks leaked. I took a chance on the Kabuki, which has never leaked, and I was back in the Nautilus world. Somewhere in my absence Aspire improved the coils to the point where I rarely get a bad one--maybe one out of 30+?
The Kayfun V5 and Mini V3 are both excellent. They are of course more work, and I'm lazy, so I've spend the majority of my time with Kabukis.
I would urge you to give the Kabuki a second chance by purchasing a couple of packs of coils from different vendors. I think you will be impressed as to just how good the Kabuki is. Good luck!
Gettin schooled on the Art of Lurrrrrvv..
It was late, I was looking at "New Posts".. saw a dear friend had posted last.
You say it's not the juice, but I'd like to ask you what the PG/VG ratio is? If you are running Max VG you might try a couple drops if distilled water water in a tank with your next fill.And, profile 2 is the one I use for aspire 1.2ohm triton mini coils.
They are clearly labeled "15 - 20 watts" so I have profile 2 set for 15watts with No Boost, and I only increase the wattage a little (max 16 watts) from there after a few hours vaping, but only if needed.
Better airflow for direct lung with these coils, but my first one developed a burnt taste within a cuppla tanks, so I'm seeing a bit of a pattern with aspire coils/kabuki in general.
Once again, zero burnt taste with ANY of my Kanger coils, or the mini RBA, so it's not the juice, or the Provari causing this issue
There are so many variables that may cause a coil to go bad sooner than later — high VG, sweeteners and sweet flavors, NETs, certain dark eliquids, etc., etc. I have been using the Kabuki for over a year and the Nautilus coils well since the Nautilus tank came out. Never had a burnt coil. The flavor will eventually drop but never a burnt taste. Although the Nautilus coils were not designed for high VG eliquids, I have used 70%+ VG in the Kabuki and it vapes just fine however the coils do not last long and loses flavor but again no burnt taste. It is possible I change my coil before it gets to the burnt taste. I do take unpowered puffs to ensure it is wicking especially with high VG.
I go away for a few days and they start lettin' pretty much anyone in here. What brings you to this side of the tracks, Mr, M/LLB? Nice to see you, regardless...
Regarding the Kabuki experience, my recommendation (completely unrelated to LLB) is that when the JUMA speaks, listen. He's the veritable E.F. Hutton of all things Provi & Kabuki.
For you guys suffering a burnt taste with nautilus coils:
Try unscrewing the top of the tank a few turns until you see an air bubble rise through your liquid - this releases the low pressure build up in the tank, which causes the coil to start to go drier - resulting in loss of flavour and leading to a dry hit
The nautilus coils all do this, some juices will taste it sooner than others, especially the cleaner citrus ones.
It is caused by excess packing of cotton to stop the coils from flooding. The cotton is there to wick the juice to the coil, but ALSO to act as slow leak valve, so the tank pressure can be re-established once the juice starts to get used up
All (or certainly most) tanks work on a pressure difference - when you vape you draw air through teh airflow holes up under the coil to your mouth. This faster moving air creates low pressure under the coil, so the higher tank pressure flows juice to the wick and coil - When you stop vaping the atmospheric pressure returns under the coil and the wick should allow a bubble or 2 to escape back INTO the tank - ready for the next vape
As the cotton gets carbonised this seal gets blocked, so low pressure (vacuum) remains inside the tank - and eventually stops the flow of juice to the coil.
Either just open the the tank to release the vacuum
OR
Do a couple of very strong dry pulls - cover the airflow and flutter your finger while sucking hard on your drip-tip - all without firing the mod.
This dry pull or primmer puff, gets very strong low pressure under the coil, so when stopping the difference is established and the tank auto releases the vacuum.
Most of you are probably throwing away perfectly good coils
I like the 1.8ohm Claptons and the Ni200 temp coils. I run the Claptons around 18-20 watts
Try unscrewing the top of the tank a few turns until you see an air bubble rise through your liquid - this releases the low pressure build up in the tank, which causes the coil to start to go drier - resulting in loss of flavour and leading to a dry hit
The nautilus coils all do this, some juices will taste it sooner than others, especially the cleaner citrus ones.
It is caused by excess packing of cotton to stop the coils from flooding. The cotton is there to wick the juice to the coil, but ALSO to act as slow leak valve, so the tank pressure can be re-established once the juice starts to get used up
All (or certainly most) tanks work on a pressure difference - when you vape you draw air through teh airflow holes up under the coil to your mouth. This faster moving air creates low pressure under the coil, so the higher tank pressure flows juice to the wick and coil - When you stop vaping the atmospheric pressure returns under the coil and the wick should allow a bubble or 2 to escape back INTO the tank - ready for the next vape
As the cotton gets carbonised this seal gets blocked, so low pressure (vacuum) remains inside the tank - and eventually stops the flow of juice to the coil.
Either just open the the tank to release the vacuum
OR
Do a couple of very strong dry pulls - cover the airflow and flutter your finger while sucking hard on your drip-tip - all without firing the mod.
This dry pull or primmer puff, gets very strong low pressure under the coil, so when stopping the difference is established and the tank auto releases the vacuum.
Most of you are probably throwing away perfectly good coils
I like the 1.8ohm Claptons and the Ni200 temp coils. I run the Claptons around 18-20 watts
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