Anybody Using A Kabuki?

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DPLongo22

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But after spending the better part of today taking a critical look at it, I see that there seems to be a sharp, but shaved fly in the positive pin. I could use a swatter right about now.

(and no, I have not an glimmer of a clue as to what I'm saying but it's sure fun typing!)

Happy Katurday, Kabukers~

And you haven't even started drinking yet, have you? :laugh:
 

AstroTurf

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But after spending the better part of today taking a critical look at it, I see that there seems to be a sharp, but shaved fly in the positive pin. I could use a swatter right about now.

(and no, I have not an glimmer of a clue as to what I'm saying but it's sure fun typing!)


Happy Katurday, Kabukers~

QUOTE="raitizz, post: 15905446, member: 238335"]Gap? Have pics?

Btw, check if the K4 pin screw does not eat in the P3 pin. I had that issue, the pin screw on the authentic K4 has pretty sharp edges.

R[/QUOTE

bdd068f3223a5f5782da68178dc3d811.jpg


Try to keep up Kat...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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DPLongo22

"Vert De Ferk"
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QUOTE="raitizz, post: 15905446, member: 238335"]Gap? Have pics?

Btw, check if the K4 pin screw does not eat in the P3 pin. I had that issue, the pin screw on the authentic K4 has pretty sharp edges.

R[/QUOTE

bdd068f3223a5f5782da68178dc3d811.jpg


Try to keep up Kat...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Let me know how that last part works out for ya.
 

stevegmu

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Oh, lawd no. The world couldn't handle more than one Steve. ;)

And I go by David, Dave, " Hey, a-ole", many things. My kids have some choice names for me...

My brother is in Germany and going to pop in to Prague for a few days this Christmas, so the ladies at the club will have 2 Christmas presents- he's quite the ladies man and has some catching up to do after being in Afghanistan and Iraq since late 2001...
 

Katdarling

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QUOTE="raitizz, post: 15905446, member: 238335"]Gap? Have pics?

Btw, check if the K4 pin screw does not eat in the P3 pin. I had that issue, the pin screw on the authentic K4 has pretty sharp edges.

R[/QUOTE

bdd068f3223a5f5782da68178dc3d811.jpg


Try to keep up Kat...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'll try, sweetie, but I run like a girl.
 

Zen~

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OK, I'm back from vacation.... decided to check in and see what's happening in this thread... and BLAMMO... a couple people with issues that need to be addressed... so let's look at some of them and see what we can do.

Jackie and I feel for Zen. He's getting skewered and he's not around to respond. His chair is spinning so fast right now, it's probably going to take off!

Yeah, it's spinning... but besides the high post counts with the same couple of people posting over and over again, it looks to me like only a couple of folks need some attention, shouldn't be too hard to straighten out.

I wouldn't worry too much about him, Gin. I have no doubt that he's fine, and that none of this will impact him in the least.

It actually kind of does impact me, I want people to have devices that actually work properly.

And I feel TERRIBLE for him, and for everyone else having issues. That wasn't my point, and sorry if I appeared to be insensitive to people's issues.

It's OK... we'll get to the bottom of it.

I agree about the absolute, there must have been a lot of these tanks sold however, how many, only HOH and Provape know, but only a few with problems. I think if it was a widespread problem, the forum would have been blasted with complaints. As the bell curve goes, there will always be outliers, I'm usually one of those " lucky" individuals. My gut sais the design was a pretty solid concept from the get go. It's just a bummer for those chosen few who wind up with the perfect storm of incompatibility.

There have been a LOT of these tanks sold, and a VERY small percentage have had issues (well under 1%... WAY under) Up until now, the issue has been solved by machining bases that are .040" deeper which up until coldgins 3 bases has completely solved the issues with connectors that are out of spec. The tolerances we machine the bases to are ridiculously tight in the area of thread depths, in fact, most CNC machining by "regular" companies is +/- .005"... because we are counting on the pin engagement we manufacture the Kabuki base to the insanely tight tolerance of +.000/-.003... you're seeing that correctly... if the base threads are over by even .001" they are rejected. NONE get through that are over... zero... So... if the pin isn't contacting the coils or the P3 on the device are WAY out of spec... and machining the coil seat to be .040" deeper should make for a SERIOUS connection in even the most severe out-liar...

That being said... 3 replacement bases were sent to coldgin... machined .040" deep, and the problem seems to be persistent. I simply cannot explain that, nor do I understand how that is even possible.

There is also the notion that by shortening the threaded P3 section, the "paper gap" will go away. The only problem I see with this solution is that the threaded section of the Kabuki P-3 doesn't actually reach all the way to the bottom on the P3 "socket" so it shouldn't matter. Something else is going on with a VERY small number of P3 threaded devices. (less than 10 so far would qualify as a VERY small number relative to the number of Kabukis that have sold.)

My theory is sanding down the base of the Kabuki will let it go down farther into the P3 for the ones with a gap, which would thus lower the tip of the atty and make a connection, rather than re-tapping the threading where the atty screws into...
I had a team of guys working on this at work today, including engineers and the gap has been eliminated. Problem attys tested and no more issues...


24buell.jpg

I see what you you're saying, but I just don't understand why shortening something that shouldn't be hitting the bottom caused the improvement.

Wow.

Just wow.


Several posts on how to "fix" these. Pardoney moi, but with a high end tank, I have zero desire to take my nail file to it. I give you guys a heap of credit, but I do believe this is over (the top) and beyond what most end users would do...... or want to do.

One more ...... "wow".

I'll toss you a "wow" as well...

When two different high end, "tanks" such as the Kabuki and Kayfun have the paper gap on a P3 and same Kabuki and Kayfun does not have said gap on a different P3, well it doesn't take a rocket scientist but apparently it takes one to tell us we as a community and the manufactures of these fine, high end tanks are mistaken.

It's all a conspiracy so those of us only one ProVari w/ a P3 connector will get at least one of our V2's retrofitted! That way, when ProVape finally admits it's on them and their P3 threading, we'll have back-up to use our Kabuki's when we send in our P3.

I wonder if fear of a mass warranty send in to replace P3 top caps is why we are in this predicament?

It's just not that simple, I know it seems to be, but it's not... thread engagement is a science, and ProVape created the thread spec... it's my job to make the tanks fit whatever ProVape manufactures, not the other way around... If they have variances, I have to figure them out and create a a thread engagement that works on their variables. Yes, as a consumer you are caught in the crossfire, and I as a manufacturer have to split hairs until they work on every P3 connector that exists... as you can plainly see the issue is that I can't actually own every P3 connector made to date... so a couple have had issues. A couple... not a lot... very very few, and I'll make it right. I can't get you your time back, but I can make it work.

Test results. I spent most of last night and this morning doing nothing but testing aka playing with my P3's, Kabukis, Nautilus P3's. I wrote a long report and sent it to David at ProVape. And I'll go over with Zen when I call on Monday. If anyone wants to read the report, let me know and I'll send it to you. I can post it here, if you guys want me to. Nothing secret. I just didn't want to bore anyone.

Here's my conclusion:

Non-Ti P3 Stealth appears to have threading issues. Original Kabuki Stealth looks to need a new base with slightly less deep threading. From what I can tell, the threading on this Kabuki bottoms out in the well on the P3 preventing contact. These two items were purchased at the same time to be used together and have the biggest problem when used together.

Something else is happening... the P3 Kabuki cannot "bottom out" in the well... it's shorter than the well by .010"... The Pin in the P3 connector may be set lower than what we recognize as being the correct spec, which can be corrected by lowering the coil seat, I'll have to machine a new base.

Regarding your report, I'd like to see it, have you taken measurements of the pin depth on your P3 devices? That seems to be where the issues happen to fall.

SOOOOOO..... anyway, I'm back... was a nice relaxing vacation, and if anybody is having issues, I will absolutely get you squared away this week.
 

raitizz

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QUOTE="raitizz, post: 15905446, member: 238335"]Gap? Have pics?

Btw, check if the K4 pin screw does not eat in the P3 pin. I had that issue, the pin screw on the authentic K4 has pretty sharp edges.

R[/QUOTE

bdd068f3223a5f5782da68178dc3d811.jpg


Try to keep up Kat...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Woah, went through the alerts and landed here :D

R
 

coldgin96

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Test results. I spent most of last night and this morning doing nothing but testing aka playing with my P3's, Kabukis, Nautilus P3's. I wrote a long report and sent it to David at ProVape. And I'll go over with Zen when I call on Monday. If anyone wants to read the report, let me know and I'll send it to you. I can post it here, if you guys want me to. Nothing secret. I just didn't want to bore anyone.

Here's my conclusion:

Non-Ti P3 Stealth appears to have threading issues. Original Kabuki Stealth looks to need a new base with slightly less deep threading. From what I can tell, the threading on this Kabuki bottoms out in the well on the P3 preventing contact. These two items were purchased at the same time to be used together and have the biggest problem when used together.

No issues with the other P3's, Kabukis and Nautilus P3's. Now this could change, and I hope NOT, when the next round of coils are used.
I'll take a copy of that report, please.

So now the conspiracy is to get us to buy Ti's... :sneaky:
 

coldgin96

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QUOTE="raitizz, post: 15905446, member: 238335"]Gap? Have pics?

Btw, check if the K4 pin screw does not eat in the P3 pin. I had that issue, the pin screw on the authentic K4 has pretty sharp edges.

R[/QUOTE

bdd068f3223a5f5782da68178dc3d811.jpg


Try to keep up Kat...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Gee, Astro, looks like you may be needing a bag of those o rings you rode me up and down about regarding their P3 compatibility... :p
 

coldgin96

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OK, I'm back from vacation.... decided to check in and see what's happening in this thread... and BLAMMO... a couple people with issues that need to be addressed... so let's look at some of them and see what we can do.



Yeah, it's spinning... but besides the high post counts with the same couple of people posting over and over again, it looks to me like only a couple of folks need some attention, shouldn't be too hard to straighten out.



It actually kind of does impact me, I want people to have devices that actually work properly.



It's OK... we'll get to the bottom of it.



There have been a LOT of these tanks sold, and a VERY small percentage have had issues (well under 1%... WAY under) Up until now, the issue has been solved by machining bases that are .040" deeper which up until coldgins 3 bases has completely solved the issues with connectors that are out of spec. The tolerances we machine the bases to are ridiculously tight in the area of thread depths, in fact, most CNC machining by "regular" companies is +/- .005"... because we are counting on the pin engagement we manufacture the Kabuki base to the insanely tight tolerance of +.000/-.003... you're seeing that correctly... if the base threads are over by even .001" they are rejected. NONE get through that are over... zero... So... if the pin isn't contacting the coils or the P3 on the device are WAY out of spec... and machining the coil seat to be .040" deeper should make for a SERIOUS connection in even the most severe out-liar...

That being said... 3 replacement bases were sent to coldgin... machined .040" deep, and the problem seems to be persistent. I simply cannot explain that, nor do I understand how that is even possible.

There is also the notion that by shortening the threaded P3 section, the "paper gap" will go away. The only problem I see with this solution is that the threaded section of the Kabuki P-3 doesn't actually reach all the way to the bottom on the P3 "socket" so it shouldn't matter. Something else is going on with a VERY small number of P3 threaded devices. (less than 10 so far would qualify as a VERY small number relative to the number of Kabukis that have sold.)



I see what you you're saying, but I just don't understand why shortening something that shouldn't be hitting the bottom caused the improvement.



I'll toss you a "wow" as well...





It's just not that simple, I know it seems to be, but it's not... thread engagement is a science, and ProVape created the thread spec... it's my job to make the tanks fit whatever ProVape manufactures, not the other way around... If they have variances, I have to figure them out and create a a thread engagement that works on their variables. Yes, as a consumer you are caught in the crossfire, and I as a manufacturer have to split hairs until they work on every P3 connector that exists... as you can plainly see the issue is that I can't actually own every P3 connector made to date... so a couple have had issues. A couple... not a lot... very very few, and I'll make it right. I can't get you your time back, but I can make it work.



Something else is happening... the P3 Kabuki cannot "bottom out" in the well... it's shorter than the well by .010"... The Pin in the P3 connector may be set lower than what we recognize as being the correct spec, which can be corrected by lowering the coil seat, I'll have to machine a new base.

Regarding your report, I'd like to see it, have you taken measurements of the pin depth on your P3 devices? That seems to be where the issues happen to fall.

SOOOOOO..... anyway, I'm back... was a nice relaxing vacation, and if anybody is having issues, I will absolutely get you squared away this week.

I love you, Zen!

Thank you for taking the time to come in here, take it on the chin, respond and address our concerns in a gentlemanly and businesslike manner.

Glad you made it back safe! Hope you had a really good time and was able to get your...well.. Zen!

I ordered a 4th (2nd stealth) Kabuki from ProVape Friday morning. Might as well wait and check it out before getting in touch with you. Tracking shows it should be here tomorrow (Monday). You're probably going to be one busy bee anyway, first day back and all...
 
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AstroTurf

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Gee, Astro, looks like you may be needing a bag of those o rings you rode me up and down about regarding their P3 compatibility... :p
The oring is fine in that pic...

But you are right everyone should have at least one spare in hand.


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