Got mine yesterday, a while back zen posted set it at 9 watts and let it do its thing. That's pretry much what I've done. It started out slow (flavor wise) but it just got better and better. Plenty of flavor plenty of air and clouds to boot. I'm glad I spent the money on this one.
Anybody Using A Kabuki?
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This really sounds off to me, it's a machined piece of steel, and suddenly somehow juice is getting past the coil and flooding the airhole after working good for how long? I am really being curious here, so bear with me...could there be a silicon grommet from a coil that got stuck in there somewhere? Or a piece of debris in the seat where the coil sets? Did you do anything to the base with any tool that may have damaged the threads? I am seriously trying to wrap my head around what would cause such a straightforward design to suddenly fail. Did you check your coils and see if maybe they did or didn't have the little silicon ring on the base of them? I can't think of anything else at the moment, and sincerely wish you the best in getting your Kabuki up and running again.
I just can't imagine what is going on here...and why would one want to leave the coil in the top part to fill? I haz a confused.
I do too, E. Extra 1/2 ml. 25% more is substantial (for me).
If you overfill the kabuki using this method then I would expect that is your issue. The wicking, by design, needs the bit of air space to create the vacuum to wick correctly. If you are filling trying to get that .5 bit of fluid then you are not leaving any room for the vacuum to occur...forcing the liquid to escape from the only point it can - the base of the coil.
LOL!
No, sorry. I meant that it do it often, and haven't had any problems. It wicks fine, doesn't leak, and I get 25% much capacity.
Idunno why...
Some people have enjoyed leaving the coil in the chimney for that last bit of juice, and in most cases, that leads to flooding. The pressure of putting the thing back together forces that little extra juice into to witking holes on the coil body, and occasionally, if that coil is in the chimney during assembly, the coil body doesn't go all the way into the base enough to compress the coil seal. Even the Nautilus Tank instructions state to put the coil into the base before reassembly.
Buy the P3... lol... I know that will sound foolish coming from the guy that made the ZNA, but I said it... lol.
Tough question. Do I buy a P3 from the UK or a ZNA light with 18650 tube shipped to me from the USA in which case I might well get stung for VAT and import duty? I don't have much money so either will be a big undertaking for me. My head says P3, my heart says ZNA
Buy the P3... lol... I know that will sound foolish coming from the guy that made the ZNA, but I said it... lol.
That was a thought I had as well about the coils in the chimney scenario...in essence, if you are not screwing the coil into the base securely, then filling the top part of the system, and get leaks...User Error.
But you have the 510 version, could there possibly be a difference in the P3 base that might make a different outcome possible?
Or maybe you have just been lucky with whatever coils you have and other batches of coils from other vendors might could yield different results, just playing the devils advocate here
Knowing the DPL method, Enaud, I doubt sincerely that it's anything to do with the coils. He's just lucky.
(and likes that extra 25%)
(and likes that extra 25%)
I guess it's karma paying me back for never knowing when I might be dragged into some work "emergency" or another.Knowing the DPL method, Enaud, I doubt sincerely that it's anything to do with the coils. He's just lucky.
(and likes that extra 25%)
I think I'd opt for a leaking Kabuki, if given an option, but alas...
Tis a funny thing, luck. [emoji15] [emoji3]
Thanks Zen
. Foolish? After watching all your videos and reading this thread, I know you're deadly honest in your opinions so it's anything but foolish. Yes Sir, P3 it is
I have just received my Radius - woo hoo. I cleaned my Kabuki, put a new authentic bvc coil in and filled with my favourite juice. 9 watts, boost 1. here we go... everything works perfectly but I am getting a very faint and high pitched noise when I press the fire button.
Very weird, everything seems to be working correctly but there is this faint high pitched noise. I switched to my Kayfun and no noise - thankfully.
Has anyone encountered this? I have been using this Kabuki for around 4 weeks now on my P3 and never had this happen. Could this be the coil? It just seems odd that everything seems okay but it is not a sound that is conducive to a relaxing vape.
Any thoughts would e greatly appreciated.
EDIT : I cleaned the contact points with isopropyl and tried again, at first I didn't hear it, and thought great, tried again and I am getting the noise for a split second - possibly the boost1 time???
Tried the same Kabuki and coil on the P3 and I don't detect the noise.
Very weird, everything seems to be working correctly but there is this faint high pitched noise. I switched to my Kayfun and no noise - thankfully.
Has anyone encountered this? I have been using this Kabuki for around 4 weeks now on my P3 and never had this happen. Could this be the coil? It just seems odd that everything seems okay but it is not a sound that is conducive to a relaxing vape.
Any thoughts would e greatly appreciated.
EDIT : I cleaned the contact points with isopropyl and tried again, at first I didn't hear it, and thought great, tried again and I am getting the noise for a split second - possibly the boost1 time???
Tried the same Kabuki and coil on the P3 and I don't detect the noise.
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The noise might be from the Radius, not the Kabuki. The Radius (actually all ProVarii) potentially emits a high pitched sound from the processor, although most people can't hear it. Perhaps the Kabuki interacts with the Radius slightly differently from the Kayfun. Just a guess, but your avatar is a dog, so maybe your hearing is better.
Something I've noticed with the Radius is increased interference with radio signals.
All my ProVaris will cause some static if fired close to a radio, but with the Radius the effect is quite pronounced and reproducable from a greater distance away.
Maybe there is less shielding due to the polycarbonite shell instead of the metal on the other models?
I was thinking this might be a bit of a sticky wicket for someone working in ICU or demolition.
All my ProVaris will cause some static if fired close to a radio, but with the Radius the effect is quite pronounced and reproducable from a greater distance away.
Maybe there is less shielding due to the polycarbonite shell instead of the metal on the other models?
I was thinking this might be a bit of a sticky wicket for someone working in ICU or demolition.
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