Anyone build a 12v-5v Cig. Lighter Adapter?

[Ridewithme38]

I've been looking for some way to properly power a Passthrough from my car Cigarette adapter...while i've found a few random adaptors that seem to work ok...i have no real idea of how many amps they will put out....

So i'm thinking about building one my self....Just Basicly a cigarette lighter adapter with a regulator in it and a usb adapter on the other end..Really it sounds so simple i don't know why i can't find it anywhere on here...

Has anyone used either of these Regulators Before ?

LM1084IT-5 or LT1084CT-5

They appear to be 12v-5v Regulators that can handle up to 5amps...Looks perfect to me...Would i need a heat sink with either of these? Anything else i need to looking into before i source the parts and start Soldering?

 

[four2109]

I don't know about your question but, they make lighter plugs with a USB outlet, about 4 bucks.
I have a lighter plug that has a voltage selector for 3, 4.5, 6, 9v I think. It works good for a passthrough. I got it in Europe and haven't seem them in the states.

 

[nubee]

AFAIK, the usb standard dictates 5v @ 500ma so they would/should follow that if that is their intended use.

I have one I bought on amazon for pennies - literally, and have used it for my 801 passthru, Janty Stick and Kensignton. No problems.

Don't know about those regulators - sorry.

 

[warp1900]

This is what you need, just plug in your car cigarette lighter, plug your usb pass-through to it and you are ready to go.


DealExtreme: $5.63 Universal USB AC and Car Charger (with Cell Phone Adapters)


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[Ridewithme38]

So over building one is a bad idea? Really all i need to power a PV is the Battery that comes with it but i LOVE my 5v 3A NicoStick...Maybe my question was a little off...

I'd like to build a 12v-5v Cigarette light adapter for my car that can handle anything i can throw at it....

Has anyone used either of the Regulators before? Is there anything i need to know about them before Soldering them up and plugging them into my car? Will i need a Heatsink, etc.?

LM1084IT-5 or LT1084CT-5

They Appear to output 5v at 5amps...that should be more then Enough for ANY USB Device right?

Warp i'm going to use an adapter like that...just going to pull everything out and replace it with this Regulator...i've read on here 5v/3ohms=1.67Amps...that Adapter puts out 1Amp...I just don't want to ever have to think about running short on power

 

[warp1900]

So over building one is a bad idea? Really all i need to power a PV is the Battery that comes with it but i LOVE my 5v 3A NicoStick...Maybe my question was a little off...

I'd like to build a 12v-5v Cigarette light adapter for my car that can handle anything i can throw at it....

Has anyone used either of the Regulators before? Is there anything i need to know about them before Soldering them up and plugging them into my car? Will i need a Heatsink, etc.?

LM1084IT-5 or LT1084CT-5

They Appear to output 5v at 5amps...that should be more then Enough for ANY USB Device right?

Warp i'm going to use an adapter like that...just going to pull everything out and replace it with this Regulator...i've read on here 5v/3ohms=1.67Amps...that Adapter puts out 1Amp...I just don't want to ever have to think about running short on power

Hmmm, not sure why you want to do all that work when you get 5.25v and 1000mA straight from that plug which is enough for any atomizer, but here is the link that might help answer about the regulators.


http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/30412-suggestions-5v-batteries-cases.html

5v 3A NicoStick?, are you sure you are not confusing mA with mAh?
Or am I missing something?


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[Ridewithme38]

Hmmm, not sure why you want to do all that work when you get 5.25v and 1000mA straight from that plug which is enough for any atomizer, but here is the link that might help answer about the regulators.


http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/30412-suggestions-5v-batteries-cases.html

5v 3A NicoStick?, are you sure you are not confusing mA with mAh?
Or am I missing something?


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Yah sorry i was rambling...I'm using the TI Regulator listed in that thread...i built the exact same Box actually...the Regulators Max Specs are 5v at 3amps output

UCC383-5
Single Output LDO, 3.0A, Fixed(5.0V), Reverse Current Protection, Thermal Shutdown

correct me if i'm wrong... 5.25v with a 3ohm Atomizer the atomizer would want to pull 1.75amps(Not accounting for Voltage Drop) How is 1000mA's enough when the Atomizer WANTS 1750mA's?

 

[warp1900]

Yah sorry i was rambling...I'm using the TI Regulator listed in that thread...i built the exact same Box actually...the Regulators Max Specs are 5v at 3amps output



correct me if i'm wrong... 5.25v with a 3ohm Atomizer the atomizer would want to pull 1.75amps(Not accounting for Voltage Drop) How is 1000mA's enough when the Atomizer WANTS 1750mA's?

We are getting into complicated technical matters that I really don't know about, but as far as I understand atomizers vary on amperage, I have some that show 3.5 others 4 and even 2 amps.
The atomizer does not "want" that or it would not run on 500mA from a USB port on the computer.

Now, when I run my passthrough from a wall wart at 4.5v and 1.6A it vapes like it was 6v+ on batteries.
If you manage to run at 5v @ 3A i would think you will just kill your atty, but I have never tried so IDK.

We need one of the electronic wizard vapers to go into details on what it would exactly do with the regulator hooked up to a car.
I still think that the 3A that you mention is not involved in the operation, it sounds like way too much for an atomizer.

Many explained current versus voltage but it just goes off the top of my head and I think that is the key to answering your dilemma.

Hopefully someone will show up to slap us both for blabbing cluelessly LOL


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[Ridewithme38]

We are getting into complicated technical matters that I really don't know about, but as far as I understand atomizers vary on amperage, I have some that show 3.5 others 4 and even 2 amps.
The atomizer does not "want" that or it would not run on 500mA from a USB port on the computer.

Now, when I run my passthrough from a wall wart at 4.5v and 1.6A it vapes like it was 6v+ on batteries.
If you manage to run at 5v @ 3A i would think you will just kill your atty, but I have never tried so IDK.

We need one of the electronic wizard vapers to go into details on what it would exactly do with the regulator hooked up to a car.
I still think that the 3A that you mention is not involved in the operation, it sounds like way too much for an atomizer.

Hopefully someone will show up to slap us both for blabbing cluelessly LOL


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Sorry that 3Amps is the Maximum available to the Atomizer...With DC the Current is Pulled by the Device...So with the 3Amps available the Atomizer has alot of head room (almost double the amp's it will need) because of this you'll never get week hits, The Atomizer has all the power it could ever want

With 5volts(Like in the case of a USB Passthrough) an atomizer with 3ohms resistance(My 901 for example) wants about 1.6amps...So its going to try to pull this from what ever source you have available to it...if your source only has 1amp available you will get weaker hits (But it will still hit)then if you have the full 1.6amps available to the Atomizer the Regulators i'm looking into as mentioned in this thread (LM1084IT-5 or LT1084CT-5) seem to have 5v's available at 5amps...Big Headroom

Now, when I run my passthrough from a wall wart at 4.5v and 1.6A it vapes like it was 6v+ on batteries.
If you manage to run at 5v @ 3A i would think you will just kill your atty, but I have never tried so IDK

Depends on the Resistance of your Atomizer...Lets just go with 3ohms to make the math easy...You have 4.5v at 1.6Amps Available to you Atomizer...

At 4.5v IF you atomizer is 3ohms...It Will Try to Pull 1.5Amps...You have .1Amps of Headroom



I THINK THIS IS ALL CORRECT>>>

 

[warp1900]

Sorry that 3Amps is the Maximum available to the Atomizer...With DC the Current is Pulled by the Device...So with the 3Amps available the Atomizer has alot of head room (almost double the amp's it will need) because of this you'll never get week hits, The Atomizer has all the power it could ever want

With 5volts(Like in the case of a USB Passthrough) an atomizer with 3ohms resistance(My 901 for example) wants about 1.6amps...So its going to try to pull this from what ever source you have available to it...if your source only has 1amp available you will get weaker hits (But it will still hit)then if you have the full 1.6amps available to the Atomizer the Regulators i'm looking into as mentioned in this thread (LM1084IT-5 or LT1084CT-5) seem to have 5v's available at 5amps...Big Headroom




Depends on the Resistance of your Atomizer...Lets just go with 3ohms to make the math easy...You have 4.5v at 1.6Amps Available to you Atomizer...

At 4.5v IF you atomizer is 3ohms...It Will Try to Pull 1.5Amps...You have .1Amps of Headroom



I THINK THIS IS ALL CORRECT>>>

Yes Ride, I believe you are, anyway, you do know the tech specs much better than I do.
So, that takes us back to the regulators you mentioned first and the answer is that they will provide much more than necessary amps?
I have not seen anyone mentioning them before in the forum, so I guess your only option is trial and error?

I hope you post the results , since it is interesting and might open other doors.


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[stevo_tdo]

I'm going on a camping trip and took a look in the back of my van and low and behold. A damn 5v 20A recepticle. That goes well with my 1 to 4 cigarettle ligther adapter. I guess if you hook in 4 dual usb cigarette lighter adapters into that adapter you cold have 8 people vaping out the back of my van. Damn, might make me a drivable vape station.

 

[Dave Rickey]

Depends on your USB bypass. If it's a standard device, that trickle-charges a battery that is then used to power the atomizer, almost anything will do (most are running at either 100mA or 280mA). If you're feeding 5V directly into your atomizer, your results will be...mixed.

I recently took a long drive (3000+ road miles) with 7 people in the car (4 teenagers, an infant, plus me and my wife, in a Honda Odyssey). Because of the sheer number of devices that had to be powered (a GPS, several cell phones, several MP3 players, and my cheap direct-drive pass-through, plus a laptop and DVD player that needed 120VAC), I wound up with an assortment of 12V splitters and power inverters (most with USB ports), plus 1 explicit 12V-USB adapter with a 1000mA rating and a Verizon Wireless RAZR adapter with a mini-B connector (unknown rating).

The cheap cupholder format 12V splitter with 2 USB ports from WalMart was a waste, provided only a tiny trickle of USB current (not enough to power the GPS with the backlight up to be seen in daylight), and the 12V sockets led directly to pads on the PCB, which snapped when I actually pushed the plugs in (not that hard, really). It didn't make it through the first 300 miles. The 2-way splitter with a single USB port (rated at 500mA) ran my pass-through just fine, but when I hooked the GPS to it after the cupholder was trashcanned, it drew so much power the plastic in one spot on the casing started to melt (I switched to the 12V cell-phone charger with a mini-B plug, which worked fine). An unpowered 4-port hub hooked to the DVD's inverter USB port provided enough current to keep the cell phones and MP3 players going, although it was a constant dance for who was going to hook what to it, when (and one was hooked up to the laptop). After the near meltdown with the GPS and the splitter, I got out a Phillips 1000mA rated 12V USB converter I originally got as part of a universal cell phone charging kit (I wanted to charge my cell phone from the computer after I lost the wall wart), which worked fine (in the dark you could notice the power-on LED dim a bit when I was puffing, otherwise no issues).

So, my advice is to get a real pass through. Failing that, try a lot of different things and watch them for over-heating or under-supply.

 

[fonosmoak]

This is what you need, just plug in your car cigarette lighter, plug your usb pass-through to it and you are ready to go.


DealExtreme: $5.63 Universal USB AC and Car Charger (with Cell Phone Adapters)


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Ok, I just bought this adapter, now my next move (tell me if I'm wrong) is to by a 901 manual passthrough for my kr808D-1.

I have it from GrimmGreen that the threads are the same and absolutely convert my KR808D-1, Nebula cartomizers to a sealed manual switch operation as apposed to the auto battery switch I get with my regular Nebula batteries...

Have I got a workable plan here?

I have been unable to find DIY directions for making my own passthrugh...

I lack net skills I guess?

Anyway
Thanks for any conformation either way...

Worse case I'm out six bucks..no biggie

again Thanks !!
fo