Anyone care to guess what THIS is?

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NebulaBrot

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You don't mean 'pi', do you? Because, so help me God, if this turns into another math rant.....
Its all in the math Clyde! :laugh:

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Para

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It's my experience, too, that a 901 is more flavourful than a 510. I know that's not down to the wattage, resistance or what device it's mounted on, therefore it has to be something to do with the way a 901 is constructed vs a 510 - that's what I was trying to say in that post above.

I love the 901 and will take it over a 510 every single time. However, there's another that is coming up the approval ladder pretty fast. Nebulabrot helped me with the 801 options and I REALLY fell for the 302 version.
 

dspin

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Guys, the thickness of the wire plays as big role as watts do. If you put a thin 3 ohms wire (0,1 or 0,13mm) on a 3,7 volt device it will work. But if you do the same but with a fat wire (0,16 or 0,18) it will not work or it will work but with much less smoke or hit.

About vaping experience, dont forget the wick we use.


Re-read this again - now I got it. Thanks Imeo, no wonder I was having issues w/20mm wire and 3.7
 
Personally I have never had a problem with .20 wire, the biggest thing to remember is that you need to use more of it! If you're only using a 30mm piece and making 4 wraps on your coil, then it's going to be such a low resistance that the wire will simply die.

.20 is hardier wire though, and will produce a little less heat initially giving the flavour time to steep and impart into the vapour before the heat rises to a level that produces a satisfactory vape, but we're talking microseconds for this to happen.

.20mm Nichrome, for example has a resistance of 34.4 ohms per meter, or 0.344 ohms per centimeter. So for a 1.5 Ohm coil you need to be using at least 5cm of wire to make the coil itself, never mind the little extra so that you can attach it to terminals or twisting with no-resistance wire. A coil made out of 7cm of wire will actually produce just over 2 Ohms resistance, and at 3.7v will produce both a great amount of vapour due to the size of the coil, and a massive amount of flavour (I do this all the time with the iAtty and other atomisers). The lovely thing though, is that if you're using VV, you can use this coil at higher voltages and you'll get a much enhanced flavour.. I generally use a 2.1 Ohm coil in my iAtty, made in this way at 4.6 to 4.8v depending on the juice, and it is glorious.
 

dspin

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Personally I have never had a problem with .20 wire, the biggest thing to remember is that you need to use more of it! If you're only using a 30mm piece and making 4 wraps on your coil, then it's going to be such a low resistance that the wire will simply die.

.20 is hardier wire though, and will produce a little less heat initially giving the flavour time to steep and impart into the vapour before the heat rises to a level that produces a satisfactory vape, but we're talking microseconds for this to happen.

.20mm Nichrome, for example has a resistance of 34.4 ohms per meter, or 0.344 ohms per centimeter. So for a 1.5 Ohm coil you need to be using at least 5cm of wire to make the coil itself, never mind the little extra so that you can attach it to terminals or twisting with no-resistance wire. A coil made out of 7cm of wire will actually produce just over 2 Ohms resistance, and at 3.7v will produce both a great amount of vapour due to the size of the coil, and a massive amount of flavour (I do this all the time with the iAtty and other atomisers). The lovely thing though, is that if you're using VV, you can use this coil at higher voltages and you'll get a much enhanced flavour.. I generally use a 2.1 Ohm coil in my iAtty, made in this way at 4.6 to 4.8v depending on the juice, and it is glorious.


I assume this was meant for me. The issues w/the 0.20mm Kanthal is on The Line. Myself and others are having issues with getting it to hit properly and to get a coil at 1.5 It should take 1.289 inches to make a 1.5 coil. I've been making 2.6 - 2.8 coils and using at 6V. I don't find that to my liking on the Line - I use that set up on the Bulli A-2 - but it's not right for the line. I may just try doubling a 3.0 wire next to get to 1.5 and am going to try 0.15mm next as suggested to do now by Del.
 
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I assume this was meant for me. The issues w/the 0.20mm Kanthal is on The Line. Myself and others are having issues with getting it to hit properly and to get a coil at 1.5 It should take 1.289 inches to make a 1.5 coil. I've been making 2.6 - 2.8 coils and using at 6V. I don't find that to my liking on the Line - I use that set up on the Bulli A-2 - but it's not right for the line. I may just try doubling a 3.0 wire next to get to 1.5 and am going to try 0.15mm next as suggested to do now by Del.

Apologies, didn't realise you were talking about the Line on the GG forum... similarly though, i don't have issues with the hit on the Line using .20 Kanthal either, and I only ever use that on a 3.7v device... I will admit that I don't measure the wire for the Line, simply do four wraps and and am done with it... I broadcasted the way I wire up the Line last night at vapourtrails.tv | ...... putting u back into vapor ...... as part of my show - "The Potting Shed" - forgive the shameless plug... I am however also in the process of uploading the Line portion of my show to YouTube as there was a break in transmission during the VT, but if I can help in any way, don't hesitate to let me know!


Tim
 

clyde2801

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As I said many times before, I'm fickle. I can love something intensely and passionately at first, only to discover in a couple of months that it has a flaw or shortcoming that gradually makes me leave it in a cold scorn.

My (beta 1) version of the Kick would not operate to my satisfaction with my SS-GGTS. It would fire intermittently and cause me all sorts of frustration. It was explained to me in terms that I could barely understand or make sense of....something about the many parts of the GGTS which is the reason behind its adaptability causing amp fluctuations which that version of the Kick couldn't handle.

I tried the Kick in another really good tube mod, and make no mistake, it's a helluva good mod. Can't really compare it to the GGTS...the other one is a really good penknife and the GGTS is a Swiss Army Vape. BUT instead of throwing the TS down or putting on the classys, I held onto it due to its other many fine attributes.

My beta3 Kick arrived in the mail yesterday. Houston, we have ignition! No more intermittent firing, and I get all the adaptability of the GGTS.

What makes this combo especially nice is the TS's ability to use the AW IMR 18650 battery; other mods require you to step down to a 18490 to use the Kick. And with the new AW IMR 18650 2000 mah battery, you can do HV vaping longer than anything else with the Kick, though it does require you to buy a an additional telescoping section and use at least one of the three extra sections.

This is a beta, and it is possible that the Kick may go through further alternations. Possible, but unlikely: my understanding is that the Kick will be released in less than a month.

In an interview on hifistud's show, Brandon stated that 10W is pretty much the max that can be pressed out of the AW IMR's. The Kick isn't going to turn your GGTS into a Darwin, but it will give you most of that mod's attributes at a fraction of the price. The Kick's electronics also serve as a super duper smart control circuit for your red AW's, for all intents and purposes they can be considered as protected with this setup. And besides keeping your batteries from going all Chernobyl on you, it also intermittently fires when it senses a drop below something like 3.2 volts. In other words, it also stops you from overtaxing your batteries.

It should also promise to make life substantially easier for novice users of the iAtty, Odysseus and other rebuildable atomizers. Instead of having to excessively worry about how many ohms your freshly made coil actually has, the Kick should be able to read that and hit it with the right amount of voltage based upon the user's wattage setting. Anything that makes your vaping life easier is a good thing.

I'll check back in and let you know how it continues to perform. But early results ARE promising!

The GGTS, AW IMR's and Extension Tube are sold by our friend Bruce at Clouds of Vapor.
 
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fright88

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There are very cheap VV cigs out there if someone wants to play with voltage Clyde. I am sure kick will be nice but it doesnt offer something new to customers if you agree. It will be a VV module if I am not mistaken

The kick is variable wattage which is nice for rebuildables and why I am excited to use it till the GG vv/vw comes out. I am just not sure if 10 watts will satisfy me.
 
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