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Anyone here used fasttech.

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trouble1000

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After my vamo order, I started going, ooooooohhh. I want.

Vamo, literally just shipped, order 2 is already ordered, and 3 is in the cart.

Order 1

Vamo v3 w/panny bats n nitecore charge
30ml liqua citrus
Igo l


Order 2

1ml Mini octo rda
3.5ml octo rda

Both red


Order 3

Made a starter kit for my brother in law.

Large case
Ego c 1100mah
Some clearos
Charger.

$21.73. I payed $55 for the same kit locally... Lol.

Whoa, slow down Ray. You'll be catching up to me soon with all these orders :laugh:
Must admit I do the same though, the Wife buys clothes, I buy mods (and juices, and drippers, and attys, and .....) you get the idea ;)
 

trouble1000

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Yes terry it is the V10, nicely made but it did have one of the O rings trapped in it so it split and they don't send spares. They should have lubed it up before putting the body on.

Ian only running it at about 4.2v, the problem is with SS as it is not a good conductor and yes it has a gold spring in it but not sure what that is made off? could be anything. I'm still happy with it apart from a few nigglys. Had to use one of my collar rings to use the kanger pro as it was way to airy for it.

The gold spring is the updated hot spring, so it's strange you're having that problem at 4+ volts. The hot spring was supposed to stop the heat build up. But like you say SS doesn't conduct very well, as long as you can vape with an oven glove or welding mitt - no problem :laugh:
I had to use my Protank with an ego beauty ring on the Vamo too, but now I've got the X9 Protank all's good.
 

trouble1000

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Well today's update (not another one :lol:)

The ithaka, V9 dripper, V10 dripper and YK1 KTS drippers arrived today.

Gonna give them a good clean tomorrow and make some more rain clouds. Really impressed with the ithaka quality, looks like a $100 item - just hope it vapes as good as it looks.

I'm glad the stuff arrived today, I've had a really ....e day at work today, so this cheered me up a bit :thumb:
 

terry w

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trouble1000

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Hey ian no i missed that originally mate,

Torchy`s are usually around a fiver each,but he doesn`t always have them in stock. I will have a quick look now .

Thanks mate, I'm gonna order some batts tomorrow, but if I order off ebay I'll have to use the Wife's account.
 

terry w

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Well today's update (not another one :lol:)

The ithaka, V9 dripper, V10 dripper and YK1 KTS drippers arrived today.

Gonna give them a good clean tomorrow and make some more rain clouds. Really impressed with the ithaka quality, looks like a $100 item - just hope it vapes as good as it looks.

I'm glad the stuff arrived today, I've had a really ....e day at work today, so this cheered me up a bit :thumb:

oh no not another update tomorrow please, only kidding. It will be interesting to see what you think of the itheka mate.
 

trouble1000

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oh no not another update tomorrow please, only kidding. It will be interesting to see what you think of the itheka mate.

It might take me a while to suss it out, there's that many parts to it :D

The Wife does moan when I use her ebay account, even though I've got my credit card linked to it, women ehhhh :laugh:
 

Juicemoose

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Hi guys been a busy day today fixing tools and still cleaning. maybe preping for some mass production....Only kidding. Let us know how you get on with the V10 Ian. As far as the spring heating up it will all down to the SS. SS is not a good conductor and the only reason it is popular is because of the looks and nothing more. If i get time i will look at the possibilty of coating the inside of the tube with copper using an electrlysi method. Being that i did not get time to make a copper spring for it couls take some time..........I did however clean out the spring end which made a better connection and seems to ave solved the issue for now.

For anybody interested in making their own copper spring then try the following.

Take a length of copper wire (more than a metre or so), tie one end to something static and place the other end in a drill. Pull tight and give it a few blasts. This will aneal the wire and then it can be rapped around something appropriate to form your spring. These details are only basic and i will assume you have some common sense before trying. If you match the gauge of wire to your existing spring should be fine but my preference would be to use slightly thicker. Before you ask NO stranded wire is not suitable only the single core will do. Run a file or sand paper over the top and botom to flatten slighty which will help in giving as much surface contact a possible. Copper is quite brittle so don't expect them to last forever.

All disclaimers come into play here so do at your own risk :)
 

trouble1000

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Hi guys been a busy day today fixing tools and still cleaning. maybe preping for some mass production....Only kidding. Let us know how you get on with the V10 Ian. As far as the spring heating up it will all down to the SS. SS is not a good conductor and the only reason it is popular is because of the looks and nothing more. If i get time i will look at the possibilty of coating the inside of the tube with copper using an electrlysi method. Being that i did not get time to make a copper spring for it couls take some time..........I did however clean out the spring end which made a better connection and seems to ave solved the issue for now.

For anybody interested in making their own copper spring then try the following.

Take a length of copper wire (more than a metre or so), tie one end to something static and place the other end in a drill. Pull tight and give it a few blasts. This will aneal the wire and then it can be rapped around something appropriate to form your spring. These details are only basic and i will assume you have some common sense before trying. If you match the gauge of wire to your existing spring should be fine but my preference would be to use slightly thicker. Before you ask NO stranded wire is not suitable only the single core will do. Run a file or sand paper over the top and botom to flatten slighty which will help in giving as much surface contact a possible. Copper is quite brittle so don't expect them to last forever.

All disclaimers come into play here so do at your own risk :)

Cheers for that Paul.
I always thought anealing copper was where you heated it up to stabilise the molecules, like with oxy-acetylene. Bearing in mind this is from my metalwork education from 30 years ago, so I could be wrong :confused:
Glad you get the issue sorted though mate.
I'm gonna be really careful with 2 of the drippers I got. I noticed they are really tight on the seals, so I've not tried taking them apart yet. Might use a little heat or maybe some juice carefully dropped inside to lube the seals so I don't rip them. I'll have to see tomorrow at playtime :D
 

trouble1000

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Ian if you heat copper it will relax it which is not what you want, the molicules will be all aligned random again :) It's quite funny really as working the copper generates heat? go figure that one?

Yep it is a bit strange that one, most metals tend to get stronger don't they when you heat them ?
Like I said though, my metalwork classes were many years ago. But I am quite a good mig welder, so I can work with metal even if I don't fully understand it :laugh:
 

terry w

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Well you know me mate, I'm a real cheapskate. That's why I love FT :p

well i can honestly say, i haven`t had any crap from f/t as of yet

Appart from them joe 90 specs. now they are a pile of dung, totally un-useable. I think i will just snap one of them off the arms,and use it like a jewelers louppe. see if i have got any old 1933 pennies knocking about
 
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