Anyone order the Magneto (Wooliston) clone yet?

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kurtus

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Isn't the K100 a clone of a clone?

Who is Wooliston anyway?
As far as I know the k100 was only cloned by Kamry, it is a clone of the empire pv mod.

I have no clue who wooliston is nor do i think anyone does but at least it doesn't say "smok" or "NZONIC" on the side plus they made this mod look a good bit different than the smok magneto, a bit more simplistic by design which I like....minus the logo of course lol
 

savagemann

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Ok, so after settling in from work this evening, I broke down the Woolie.
Sorry for the low light crappy photos, took em with my phone in dim light.

Here is a pic of inside the battery tube.....
20130914_223003-1_zps2b5fa7ba.jpg


Inside the switch....
20130914_223029-1_zps052304a3.jpg


20130914_2230450-1_zps39d8bd0b.jpg


Switch disassembled. .....
20130914_223225-1_zpsa4000cca.jpg


Battery contact. ....
20130914_2237310-1_zpse0cbbf2c.jpg


Body side switch/ battery contact assembly. ...
20130914_223753-1_zpsa6f47a99.jpg


Inside the body.......
20130914_2238070-1_zpsfabd050a.jpg


Button and parts......
20130914_224009-1_zps07f0ffea.jpg


Fresh wick.....
20130914_224622-1_zpsff902ce7.jpg


Igo w mode. ....
20130914_225034-1_zpsdc9b42e3.jpg


Cousins?
20130914_225355-1_zps81b54e2e.jpg
 

kurtus

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Sweet, thanks savagemann for these pictures. Couple questions though, where is the spring from, battery contact or something? Seems like you would get better connectivity without it if thats the case since this telescope's. Also wondering if the locking ring is reverse thread? FWIW I was just reading the reviews at fasttech on this and a user states that the 510 pin is actually sort of telescopic as well. If you take 2 sets of needle nose pliers you can actually unscrew the 510 pin out of the bottom section and I think the bottom contact is pressed into the delrin. If it where me I'd twist it all the way out and cut a small line in the pin with a dremel so you could use a flat head screw driver to adjust it up and down when needed. I can't confirm this will work though until I have mine in hand.

Edit: just thinking about the spring and is it used to make connection from the magnetic button side to the battery connector side? Seems this is the weakest link if there is much voltage drop. Wonder whats inside the smok magneto to compare......anyone??
 
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savagemann

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Sweet, thanks savagemann for these pictures. Couple questions though, where is the spring from, battery contact or something? Seems like you would get better connectivity without it if thats the case since this telescope's. Also wondering if the locking ring is reverse thread? FWIW I was just reading the reviews at fasttech on this and a user states that the 510 pin is actually sort of telescopic as well. If you take 2 sets of needle nose pliers you can actually unscrew the 510 pin out of the bottom section and I think the bottom contact is pressed into the delrin. If it where me I'd twist it all the way out and cut a small line in the pin with a dremel so you could use a flat head screw driver to adjust it up and down when needed. I can't confirm this will work though until I have mine in hand.

Edit: just thinking about the spring and is it used to make connection from the magnetic button side to the battery connector side? Seems this is the weakest link if there is much voltage drop. Wonder whats inside the smok magneto to compare......anyone??

Yes, the spring goes between the battery contact and the body side of the switch contact.
But, when the device is telescoped down the tighten up the battery, those two contacts touch. I believe tyhe spring is merely just to add resistance between those 2 parts before they are tightened together.

The locking ring is reverse threaded. Very smooth threads at that. I can give it a nice flick and is spins all the way closed or open.

Yes, the 510 pin and bottom contact are pressed into the delrin, and screw together.
Here is something I figured out recently about this part of the head..............It kind of is telescopic. As the delrin part can slide either with a little pressure.
I actually like this alot.
The way mine works is I attach the atty before putting the battery in, and screw it down flush. Then install the battery and snug it up.
The battery pushes the whole delrin assembly up against the 510 connector of the atty.
So for example, I have a couple IGO L and W attys and a Phoenix V5 I use a lot. All of them fit a bit differently at the 510, so when I switch out an atty, I just unscrew the battery tube a turn or 2, then attach the atty flush, then tighten up the battery tube and all is well in the world.

I'm not sure if they did this by design, but mine works that way.
It took a little while for it to break in and me to figure it out.
The delrin has loosened up a hair and become a little easier over time, but not in a bad way.

The way I figured this out, was one day I was switching between my V5 and IGO L. I put the IGO on and it wouldn't fire.
Then I realized the battery tube felt a bit loose. It tightened up a whole rotation, then was firing fine.
Ever since that day I have been flush mounting everything.
I love it.
IMO, no need to mod the 510 connector once everything breaks in.
The delrin was pretty stiff to start out though.

Keep in mind, this is only 1 device, and not sure if it was by design, but lets hope it was, as it's a great auto telescoping feature.
 

Jerry J

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    Sweet, thanks savagemann for these pictures. Couple questions though, where is the spring from, battery contact or something? Seems like you would get better connectivity without it if thats the case since this telescope's. Also wondering if the locking ring is reverse thread? FWIW I was just reading the reviews at fasttech on this and a user states that the 510 pin is actually sort of telescopic as well. If you take 2 sets of needle nose pliers you can actually unscrew the 510 pin out of the bottom section and I think the bottom contact is pressed into the delrin. If it where me I'd twist it all the way out and cut a small line in the pin with a dremel so you could use a flat head screw driver to adjust it up and down when needed. I can't confirm this will work though until I have mine in hand.

    Edit: just thinking about the spring and is it used to make connection from the magnetic button side to the battery connector side? Seems this is the weakest link if there is much voltage drop. Wonder whats inside the smok magneto to compare......anyone??

    I would assume that you have to have some way to keep the pin from the battery otherwise wouldn't the connection pin flop around? And the switch assembly needs some type of resistance from making unintentional contact. The spring shouldn't have anything to do with completing the circuit.
     

    kurtus

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    Yes, the spring goes between the battery contact and the body side of the switch contact.
    But, when the device is telescoped down the tighten up the battery, those two contacts touch. I believe tyhe spring is merely just to add resistance between those 2 parts before they are tightened together.

    The locking ring is reverse threaded. Very smooth threads at that. I can give it a nice flick and is spins all the way closed or open.

    Yes, the 510 pin and bottom contact are pressed into the delrin, and screw together.
    Here is something I figured out recently about this part of the head..............It kind of is telescopic. As the delrin part can slide either with a little pressure.
    I actually like this alot.
    The way mine works is I attach the atty before putting the battery in, and screw it down flush. Then install the battery and snug it up.
    The battery pushes the whole delrin assembly up against the 510 connector of the atty.
    So for example, I have a couple IGO L and W attys and a Phoenix V5 I use a lot. All of them fit a bit differently at the 510, so when I switch out an atty, I just unscrew the battery tube a turn or 2, then attach the atty flush, then tighten up the battery tube and all is well in the world.

    I'm not sure if they did this by design, but mine works that way.
    It took a little while for it to break in and me to figure it out.
    The delrin has loosened up a hair and become a little easier over time, but not in a bad way.

    The way I figured this out, was one day I was switching between my V5 and IGO L. I put the IGO on and it wouldn't fire.
    Then I realized the battery tube felt a bit loose. It tightened up a whole rotation, then was firing fine.
    Ever since that day I have been flush mounting everything.
    I love it.
    IMO, no need to mod the 510 connector once everything breaks in.
    The delrin was pretty stiff to start out though.

    Keep in mind, this is only 1 device, and not sure if it was by design, but lets hope it was, as it's a great auto telescoping feature.



    Thanks man, that answers alot for me :)
     

    savagemann

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    I would assume that you have to have some way to keep the pin from the battery otherwise wouldn't the connection pin flop around? And the switch assembly needs some type of resistance from making unintentional contact. The spring shouldn't have anything to do with completing the circuit.

    The magnets add the resistance to the switch and prevent firing unless the button is depressed.

    The spring is just to add a little pressure on the battery when adjusting the telescoping tube to battery size.
    Once it is tightened all the way the contacts that sandwich the spring together touch.

    The spring does nothing to complete the circuit as the 2 contact points touch when the device is screwed together.
     

    savagemann

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    Thanks for the pictures, I was not wrong to buy it, hopefully get to use it this week, did you measure the voltage drop?


    My meter has been acting up. Haven't been able to find my good meter yet.
    I think it's buried away with my diy flashlight and bike light stuff.
    I'll try and dig it out tomorrow.
     

    Sarje

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    Just got mine, along with the first run of the FT Chi You clone (yeah, we do wait a while in South Africa for the post).
    Really impressed with the Wooly. Well made, good threads, and as someone already mentioned, the 510 pin is 'sort of' self adjusting.
    At first I liked it much more than the Chi You, but once i got used to the pin assembly on the Chi, I like 'em about equal. Unlike the Chi clone, there is nothing about the Wooly that I would change. Highly recommended IMHO.
     

    Plumes.91

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    pretty funny considering the magneto is basically an nzonic clone. cloning clones now- where does it end :p

    When we're buying clones of clones of clones of clones that were never even expensive to begin with. Like how Sigelei cloned the smoktech natural haha. what the hell? can you really use cheaper materials than smoktech? pretty soon we're all going to be vaping gold spray painted plastic atomizers. (Oh wait, thats a clearomizer) & people will say "When is the laminate paper version of this coming to fasttech?"
     

    savagemann

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    Just got mine, along with the first run of the FT Chi You clone (yeah, we do wait a while in South Africa for the post).
    Really impressed with the Wooly. Well made, good threads, and as someone already mentioned, the 510 pin is 'sort of' self adjusting.
    At first I liked it much more than the Chi You, but once i got used to the pin assembly on the Chi, I like 'em about equal. Unlike the Chi clone, there is nothing about the Wooly that I would change. Highly recommended IMHO.

    I've taken my switch assembly apart a few times for various reasons.
    Each time I noticed the button assembly was slightly loose.
    Just a hair.
    I just put a dot of blue loctite on it today.
     

    NiburianElf

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    When we're buying clones of clones of clones of clones that were never even expensive to begin with. Like how Sigelei cloned the smoktech natural haha. what the hell? can you really use cheaper materials than smoktech? pretty soon we're all going to be vaping gold spray painted plastic atomizers. (Oh wait, thats a clearomizer) & people will say "When is the laminate paper version of this coming to fasttech?"

    I don't see this happening. There are more factors to the production costs than materials, and unless you are buying aluminum the steel is normally one grade below the originals. They probably produce way more clones at a time and then simply sell them much cheaper.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4
     
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