Are 5v PV's better?

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fivefivesix

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o4_srt

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I think that it's the surface area of the heating coil. The resistance is calculated by a certain length of nicrome wire. To up the resistance you use a longer piece and when coiled up, you have more surface area which heats more evenly??? Anyways, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! lol. :vapor:

not necessarily, different alloys have different resistance/foot. Wire gauge comes into play as well.

just from an electrical standpoint, everything else being equal, a high voltage atty with a high input voltage that produces 10 watts of power SHOULD be equivalent to a standard voltage device using a low resistance atty that produces 10 watts.

Any difference SHOULD be rather minimal.

but as I experience every day, an engineer saying something SHOULD happen a certain way does not make it true. Too many variables.
 
I have the Prodigy V3 from Puresmoker, and I have both the 6v setup (two 3v LifeP04 batts) and the 3.7v setup (one AW 17670 batt). I run a standard resistance carto when vaping at 6v, and a low resistance carto at 3.7. To me, the difference between 6v and 3.7v is night and day. At 6v I get a very warm, flavorful vape, great vapor, great throat hit. At 3.7v, not so much. And it's all because of the voltage difference, pure and simple. At 3.7v, it seems like I can vape and vape and never get "full." The satisfaction just isn't there like it is at 6v. Those that have never vaped higher than 3.7v don't know the difference, but once you've vaped at 5 or 6v, it's hard to go back to 3.7v. At least that's been my experience...
 

ScottinSoCal

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Is it OK if I chuckled when I read through this?

I've been on a forum for a particular type of classic car for several years now. The car was produced for several years and came in three flavors. Newbs pop up regularly and ask "which is the best?", and you can bet your last dollar that there'll be people on there touting every combination of engine/transmission/fuel management/suspension that was made, all claiming that was the absolute best model made. It never fails, and I'm one of them chiming in with everyone else.

The truth is, there isn't an objective "best", there's only what is best for you. Are you more interested in speed? Handling? Mileage? DIY-able repairs? Purchase cost? Maintenance cost? I'm finding it's as true with this as it is for my car forum.
 

WillyB

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I have the Prodigy V3 from Puresmoker, and I have both the 6v setup (two 3v LifeP04 batts) .....don't know the difference, but once you've vaped at 5 or 6v, it's hard to go back to 3.7v. At least that's been my experience...
Well a pair of the 3V Tenergy LifeP04 batts, do not vape at 6V.

Here's a freshly charged set firing a Joye atty.

Tenergy_3vLiPo.JPG


And with just a pair of batteries, the bulk of your vape session will actually be below 5V as there is no regulation.

If we run the numbers true 6V will consume about 35% more watts (Power/heat) than the Tenergy Li-PO4 pair. That's a significant difference.

Using a pair of the 3V Tenergy Li-Ions will get you slightly higher vaping (loaded) volts.

These are PureSmoker's own numbers.
Here's the Breakdown:
Prodigy V1: (Batteries - (2) Tenergy RCR123 - 750mAh - Fully Charged -- Without Resistor

At Atomizer -- 6.62v
Under Load (True Voltage) -- 5.65v


Folks should also realize that mods like the 5V GLV (a pair of cells and a resistor) will actually be at 5V for a a relatively short period in time, as the voltage will be changing/dropping with each drag.
 

wv2win

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....Folks should also realize that mods like the 5V GLV (a pair of cells and a resistor) will actually be at 5V for a a relatively short period in time, as the voltage will be changing/dropping with each drag.

It's still much better than the little 3.7v batteries that probably only put out about 3.2v's of power.
 
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