are magnet button/switches not good for low ohm builds?

[rioteer]

so i recently bought a atomo v2 which comes with the magnet fire button.. on my lower ohm builds the button gets very hot(so hot i can't keep my finger on it). i'm curious if this is normal or if others have experienced this problem. I ended up taking a spring from my k100 and cutting it down and installing it into the atomo v2 button. it doesn't feel as good but it got rid of the hot button problem.
what causes this?

 

[JaRod]

In Magnetics I have 2 Nzonic mods, and a smok Magneto, my lower builds are about .35 ohm, the button never gets hot, not even close, the batteries and in consequence the whole mod gets a little warmer, but just a few degrees because of the high discharge rate of the battery.
I assume you are a veteran and know what you are doing otherwise my best guess would be you have a short of some sort.

 

[Cloud Junky]

I have had spring button mods get hot, and I have had some magnet mods never get hot. I went through two Big Nasty mods, my first one the button got hot sometimes, and my second one never even warmed up. I guess if the negative grounds at the right point it will not do that.

 

[rioteer]

strange...

upon further research i came across this concerning the atomo : Atomo – Vapor Workz

notice the part where it says:

"This is the last batch of the v2 that Gille made with spring instead of magnets due to the switch getting hot with sub-ohm users!"

 

[suspectK]

^where does the negative contact go to ground in a mod?

My atomo v2 gets "hot spots." The whole switch doesn't warm up, but it feels like you get a little zap. It hasn't happened in a while...I stay at 0.5 and 0.7ohms.. it seemed like it would do that when my finger was pressed hard against button, causing an indention in center. The little zap would always happen around that.. where the extra tissue was built up from that pressure. The switch isn't warm at all when this happens.

I haven't gotten a straight hot switch/button yet..

37, ph0n3 h0m3.

 

[State O' Flux]

where does the negative contact go to ground in a mod?

And this is the question to ask. Let's consider the variables for a moment. ;-)

Mechs are a designed device. Someone, with or without a working knowledge of electrical continuity, decides the design of the button and it's tolerances. A clone of an original design may be a different story, in that a clone can be a true 1:1, or not.

Is a device built with minimal tolerance, with superior continuity in mind - a device that, fit with springs or magnets (or even a bunch of tiny red balloons) would work well, due to large and well engaged surface areas?
Or, is the design tolerance "sloppy"... where the continuous contact of a spring - inadequate though it might be to conduct the amperage associated with low resistance vaping - is considered a prerequisite to offset a sloppy and inconsistent tolerance, so that it might have, at least adequate, continuity?

Turning it around a bit...

If the intentional design is that the electrical path be through a spring, and that spring is replaced with magnets which, if our magnets don't "bottom out", may change the electrical path to travel through other points of contact... points of contact never intended to perform that duty, points of contact that are inconsistent and that result in a high degree of resistivity... will those points appear as "hot spots"?

In closing... visualize a mech in cross-section, as though it were band-sawed right down the center lengthwise axis. When the battery contact presses firmly against the battery negative... what are the surfaces that provide ground continuity through the button? Are they solid and substantial, or are they razor edge and sketchy?

 

[DeadbeatJeff]

In Magnetics I have 2 Nzonic mods, and a Smok Magneto, my lower builds are about .35 ohm, the button never gets hot, not even close, the batteries and in consequence the whole mod gets a little warmer, but just a few degrees because of the high discharge rate of the battery.
I assume you are a veteran and know what you are doing otherwise my best guess would be you have a short of some sort.

I'd say a short too. Could be at the 510 connection. I've had that happen when the ati 510 wasn't making adequate contact with the pin in the mech.

 

[Porkchop081]

I run my Smok Magneto in sub ohms (.5-1.0) on regular basis and have never felt the switch get hot. If anything, my hands make it warmer than anything. The head may heat up a little if I chain vape it, but that is to be expected. I would definatly look into that.

 

[wonkeypickle]

so i recently bought a atomo v2 which comes with the magnet fire button.. on my lower ohm builds the button gets very hot(so hot i can't keep my finger on it). i'm curious if this is normal or if others have experienced this problem. I ended up taking a spring from my k100 and cutting it down and installing it into the atomo v2 button. it doesn't feel as good but it got rid of the hot button problem.
what causes this?

another v2 owner here, i have the same issues with the button zapping/getting hot.



i just ignore it, kinda a shame to drop $200 on a mod that shorts out.

 

[classwife]

another v2 owner here, i have the same issues with the button zapping/getting hot.



i just ignore it, kinda a shame to drop $200 on a mod that shorts out.

If your mods are getting hot or zapping you, you have a problem and could be in danger.

Don't ignore it.

 

[jakart]

^where does the negative contact go to ground in a mod?

My atomo v2 gets "hot spots." The whole switch doesn't warm up, but it feels like you get a little zap. It hasn't happened in a while...I stay at 0.5 and 0.7ohms.. it seemed like it would do that when my finger was pressed hard against button, causing an indention in center. The little zap would always happen around that.. where the extra tissue was built up from that pressure. The switch isn't warm at all when this happens.

I haven't gotten a straight hot switch/button yet..

37, ph0n3 h0m3.

This is exactly what happens with my Atomo V2 clone. A little zap. I doubt it's a short, since so many people are having this problem, they can't all be shorting out (can they?) Is there a known fix? Replacing the magnets with a spring, has anyone tried that? And if so, which spring to get.

 

[sando7]

i know on mine it does the same thing, when screwing the switch off the contact screw on the button starts backing out and over time it becomes un-tightened and then "hot-finger" on press...next time it happens check it and tighten it back up and the zap stops...works every-time for me.

 

[wonkeypickle]

i know on mine it does the same thing, when screwing the switch off the contact screw on the button starts backing out and over time it becomes un-tightened and then "hot-finger" on press...next time it happens check it and tighten it back up and the zap stops...works every-time for me.

my fix for this problem was to just buy another mod. however i read in a thread on another forum that someone mentioned using a nemesis spring (i do recall them saying it required modding to fit). i have a few extra springs laying around and will give it a try to remedy the issue this evening. also i started using my kayfun on the atomo @1.3 ohms, the hot button/short issue disappeared. i was running my dripper @.22 when the short/hot button thing was occuring.

 

[wonkeypickle]

my fix for this problem was to just buy another mod. however i read in a thread on another forum that someone mentioned using a nemesis spring (i do recall them saying it required modding to fit). i have a few extra springs laying around and will give it a try to remedy the issue this evening. also i started using my kayfun on the atomo @1.3 ohms, the hot button/short issue disappeared. i was running my dripper @.22 when the short/hot button thing was occuring.

Mission success. If you have a v2 i highly recommend getting a nemesis spring, crushing the bottom loop to fit and installing as normal. Problem fixed even down to .2 ohms, feels better than magnets imo. Used atmomixani "soft" nemesis spring.