Firing button on Infinite King V2 getting hot

[vapo jam]

just to be clear, i'm not recommending maxing out a battery's current rating.

that being said, the button isn't getting hot because you're at the battery's limit, it's getting hot because the resistance of the switch is higher than any other part of the mod. since the coil resistance was so low, you were getting a significant voltage drop at the mod's high resistance point (the switch), causing it to heat up.

again, i'm not at all advocating the use of a .14 ohm coil, but technically the issue can be resolved by decreasing the resistance of the switch instead of increasing the resistance of the coil. easiest way to do this is cleaning out all the moving parts, and if the spring is made of skinny wire, pull out the center of some rg6 cable and use that to make a new spring.

finally, if you're stressing the battery too much, the battery itself will get (typically very) hot, not the switch.

 

[B1sh0p]

It's because you're maxing the battery at 30 amps with a fresh battery (4.2v).

Coil something a bit more sensible and your hot battery problem will be gone. I'd suggest staying at or above .2Ω. You won't lose a thing in your vape, you'll cut your amperage by almost 10 full amps, and you'll be back in safe territory.

vaping that low a coil with a 30A battery is downright dangerous as you're literally riding the edge of what he battery can realistically perform. Also remember that when you max the battery like that, you kill its usable life span in a hurry.

You're completely wrong about this. The battery isn't getting hot. The switch is getting hot because there's a short. Pulsing a VTC5 will not heat the battery even with that little resistance.

Before you get on your high horse, learn what you're talking about.

 

[B1sh0p]

Fresh Battery = 4.2 volts.
Resistance = .14Ω

Do the math.

I already have.

Voltage = 4.2V
Wattage = 126W
Resistance = .14Ω
Current = 30A

If you want to blow your battery to bits, go ahead. It's not my hand and face. The math doesn't lie. But when you come and ask a question to which you get an answer you don't want to hear, don't blame the math when you're the one who's done it wrong.

VTC's don't "blow up." You can stop spreading that nonsense. I don't know who's worse, the noobs that make stupid builds or the people that pontificate about battery safety without knowing what they're talking about.

 

[blueGrassTubb]

VTC's don't "blow up." You can stop spreading that nonsense. I don't know who's worse, the noobs that make stupid builds or the people that pontificate about battery safety without knowing what they're talking about.

All fair enough.

I don't have any real expertise in batteries.

But the math is clear. .14Ω and a 30A battery with a fresh charge is clearly dangerous, riding the very edge of the battery's capabilities, even if my imagination as to exactly what heated up and why was wrong. Imagine what would happen if he forgot to lock his switch and it fired in his pocket or on his counter top for extended periods. It wouldn't be pretty.

And yes, I know that those batteries don't generally explode. The chemistry makes it a very unlikely scenario. I was using it more as a euphemism than a realistic expectation in the event of failure. Perhaps I should have made that more clear.

I appreciate the lesson in both electronics, battery technology, and humility.

 

[RugerRob]

Okay, I noticed on this thread everyone started pointing fingers at the build rather rather than the mod itself.

I purchased a King Mod V2 Satin I have 4 Hcigar Kayfuns and several RDA's. I'm using Efest Purple 18650 30 Amp batteries the Kayfuns are built at 1.0-1.2 ohm single coils and the RDA (tobh, atomic, trident v2) are built from .21-.46 ohms.

What I am finding is the tube gets warm and the firing button gets HOT almost to the point of not being able to touch it when using any of my RBA/RDA's and the above coil/ohm builds. The lower the ohm the hotter the button.

I've checked all the threads, pins, cleaned (it's practically NEW) and cannot solve the issue. Took the spring out replaced it with fat daddy magnets, still same problem. One thing I do see is that the inside of the firing button housing has the same satin finish as the exterior. I'm wondering if this is effecting the conductivity when pressing the button. Anyone else seeing voltage drop issues or abnormal tube heating up? There's really not much to this mod as far as conductivity other than the pins and materials/finish. Really like the mod but the heat and performance are really a bummer. Also read something online stating they were using copper "plated" pins on some of them as well...

Any thoughs experiences, suggestions definiatley appreciated, not returning it but will toss it if I can't get it to perform... another item to the heap of clone atty's and mods that didn't pan out, kinda goes with the territory...

Tobh clone with a center post that twists when turning the top screw, a kayfun with a center pin at the 510 connector that will not make contact with most mods because it is recessed to far, and now a mod that heats up gets a hot switch and has spotty conductivity.

 

[bsoplinger]

If it really is the satin finish on the parts of the switch that are supposed to make contact electrically then I can agree with you. The slightly rough surface would greatly reduce electrical conductivity between parts. I'd suggest sanding or polishing the contact areas to improve conductivity at the expense of fit. You will probably end up with a wobbly switch or one that fires in only certain orientations, made more likely the more material you need to remove to get to a polished finish.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[stillnotsmoking]

"I have my atty at .14 ohms and my mod gets hot"

Things that make you go hmm.

More like 'Things that make you go BOOM.'

 

[RugerRob]

Yeah, I'm at work now and have some wet sand paper and steel wool and polish at home so I'm going to see if I can carefully remove the stain finish without taking off too much material and see if she fires better. Pretty new mod and I was just hoping someone had already tested or come across the issue resolved it this way or perhaps another way.


If modding/polishing the switch makes it wobble or I have other connection issues then I toss it in the trash, done, not messing with it after that.

 

[RugerRob]

Also found there is a silver pin and insulator "upgrade kit" listed on ebay, checking to see if it fits the V2... may try that too... I'm not totally ready to give up on the King yet!

 

[RugerRob]

Okay, got home took the King V2 Firing button apart, interesting there was a little black residue (not much). I took it apart, removed the magnets, cleaned everything, then used 600 wet sand paper and a little water to buff off the satin finish off all the surfaces in the firing button housing and on the firing button itself. Really no removal of any real metal or material. Dried everything put it back together, cleaned all the threads on the mod itself, removed and cleaned the insulator and top pin assembly. After getting everything back together she hits hard again and with a .28 ohm RDA gets warm (Normal) but not too hot. Let it cool off and threw on a Kay fun at 1ohm and vaped away, hits great no issues with firing button, and no heating up at all using the kayfun (which before it would). So I'm thinking the problem is resolved. Not sure if it was just taking it apart and cleaning everything or buffing the satin finish off that did the trick but the combination of both worked so the king is back in business!