So ya liking that Bachelor nano? I've been looking at that one for my little nugget.
Artery vapor Nugget box mod/50W TC/SMALLER than the COV Mini Volt!
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Got my black one last week and I forgot how much I hate charging a mod vs a battery but it's totally worth it for this tiny box. I wish they'd make one like this with a replaceable battery, I'd be all over that. Works like a dream for the most part. The TC function works great, other than I find myself adjusting the temp if the mod has sat a while. Power mode is fine, very smooth vape all around. Can't believe how well this box works, plus it lasts most of my work day. All and all for $28 how could you lose?
I absolutely love this one. Easy to build on, super easy to wick (it does favor large ID builds though) and gives a very flavorful wet vape with a nice slightly restricted DL inhale.
But I have another one and two regular Bachelors that are absolutely worthless.
Out of the 4 Bachelors I've owned so far (nr 5 is on the way) only one functions without leaking unfortunately, so I'm afraid I can't recommend them. I'm just stupid enough to keep buying more, lol
Damn , that's no good. Why do you think they are leaking on you so bad? Every time I've had a leak on any tank it's been a vacuum leak, normally o-rings . Ha I'm just trying to build up on different tanks , might have to still check it out
I'm exactly the opposite, I hate swapping out batteries, lol
I do not share your experience in that the temp needs adjustment after it sits for a while though, first time I hear about it frankly.
But yeah, it's a great little mod. I bought one as a back up to my Evic VT but that one died within a week after I got my first Nugget and I've been using it as my daily driver since.
Poor quality control I suspect, combined with a design that doesn't tolerate a lot if discrepancies in the tolerances probably. We've been debating about it in the Bachelor thread but all we can do is speculate I'm afraid, it does seem that the weak spot is the area around the o-ring in the chimney though.
If you get a good one chances are you'll love it, and there are plenty of people who own several of these without encountering one that leaks too. I've just been very unfortunate with them I'm afraid.
And yet I'm still buying more
I thought I'd interrupt this chatty ol' bunch with a photo
It won't be long before I fill up an entire page by myself I tell ya
Sorry i got myself locked out of my old account. Thats absolutely stunning!!
Two-Step Verification
I haven't seen anyone else mention this yet, but how good are your Nuggets at reading the resistance of your coils?
I have to screw and unscrew my RTAs several times before I get a proper reading, sometimes I can't get one at all even. Right now I'm vaping a 0,4 ohm coil that is set as 0,5 on my black Nugget. Instead of turning it up to 215/420 degrees I just use it at 175C instead and get similar results because the mod couldn't get the resistance right. Even after an entire night of getting to room temperature it still failed to read the right resistance.
I'm using coils made out of two strands of titanium twisted together by the way. I'm still waiting on some SS wire to arrive so I can try it. Maybe it's the twisted wire that makes it hard to read (although my other mod never had a problem with them), or it's only a problem in TMti mode, idk.
I have to screw and unscrew my RTAs several times before I get a proper reading, sometimes I can't get one at all even. Right now I'm vaping a 0,4 ohm coil that is set as 0,5 on my black Nugget. Instead of turning it up to 215/420 degrees I just use it at 175C instead and get similar results because the mod couldn't get the resistance right. Even after an entire night of getting to room temperature it still failed to read the right resistance.
I'm using coils made out of two strands of titanium twisted together by the way. I'm still waiting on some SS wire to arrive so I can try it. Maybe it's the twisted wire that makes it hard to read (although my other mod never had a problem with them), or it's only a problem in TMti mode, idk.
Cubis tank - the coil resistence reading was .54 on the nugget and put it on the sx mini m class and it was reading .49 and then put it on the RX200 and it was reading .5
Kayfun v5 clone .27 on nugget, .24 on sx mini m clsass, and .25 on the RX200
So yep getting some resistance fluctuations there too..
Kayfun v5 clone .27 on nugget, .24 on sx mini m clsass, and .25 on the RX200
So yep getting some resistance fluctuations there too..
That's like a max difference of 0,03ohm, that's not too bad I guess.
Mine are often 0,02 off as well, but I wasn't referring to that. I often have a problem getting them to read the correct resistance when swapping tanks or screwing on a new tank. Often it's on the high side initially, like 0,1ohm too high which greatly effects how it operates in TC mode. It takes several attempts of removing the tank and putting it back on again before it gets in the ballpark of the actual resistance. Sometimes it helps to removie the tank, then turn off the Nugget before screwing it on and then turn it on but this also doesn't always work.
Both my Nuggets have this problem, I can't really find much difference in their behavior.
I've only used them in TC-Ti mode thus far though, it could be related to that setting. I'll try it with SS in wattage and TC-SS mode when my wire comes in.
Im suspecting it is an atty problem and not the nugget. The twisted wire may be shorting, not tightened down enough, end bits touching to the outer chamber etc that is causing this all for you.
Nah, I'm certain it's the Nugget, it was fine on my Evic VT and on my ohm-meter. I've been using this same coil in this same RTA for over two months now without problems.
So yours gives pretty much the same reading every time you screw the same tank on your Nugget when choosing "new coil" if it asks you? & what kind of wire & setting are you using?
From what i recall of using ti, i found it finicky to deal with. That is, it was too soft and broke easy. I also used to do contact coils (always have, with all wires) and initially dry burned at low watts 5-9watts if i recall correctly, and found that squeezing the coils would need a soft screw tightening again on RBA, else i would get resistance fluctuations.
I just put the kayfun v5 on it again and reading .26 now (.1 down from what it was earlier on, took a short puff) and works as expected though. I unscrewed it and got the new coil prompt, hit new and its reading .27 again like earlier post.
Having said that, i dont think you will have issues with the SS 316L.
Settings would vary on what you preferably like.. me i got 22 gauge 8 wraps 316L SS and at .27 im vaping at 40 watts and 260C on nugget ATM with kayfun v5. Cubis i do less watts but same Celsius and 24 or 26 gauge 316L.
SS contact coil and i dry burn and strum in regular watts mode first, exactly how kanthal dry burns are done, to get the resistance to break in / settle down, and inner to out glow. No issues with 316L ever in an RTA.
I just put the kayfun v5 on it again and reading .26 now (.1 down from what it was earlier on, took a short puff) and works as expected though. I unscrewed it and got the new coil prompt, hit new and its reading .27 again like earlier post.
Having said that, i dont think you will have issues with the SS 316L.
Settings would vary on what you preferably like.. me i got 22 gauge 8 wraps 316L SS and at .27 im vaping at 40 watts and 260C on nugget ATM with kayfun v5. Cubis i do less watts but same Celsius and 24 or 26 gauge 316L.
SS contact coil and i dry burn and strum in regular watts mode first, exactly how kanthal dry burns are done, to get the resistance to break in / settle down, and inner to out glow. No issues with 316L ever in an RTA.
Just for comparison, the new coil up, Cubis (hasnt been used for a long while) is reading .53 as opposed to the .54 earlier, on the nugget.
Cool, thanks, my irregularities must come from the TMTi setting then.
The only problem I have with Ti wire is that it is so springy that my coils always end up almost half a mm larger than the mandrel I wrap them on, but otherwise no complains. Imo experience it is very strong, I never had it break on me unless I wanted it to, bot with annealed wire as well as regular grade 1.
I don't feel comfortable dry burning it though, I tried to carefully pulls it at around 6W or so a few times when I first started using it but still got some white oxidation (as far as I could tell anyway).
So it is a bit harder to clean, carefully brushing the coil with a toothbrush under a running stream of hot water.
I'm usually around 215C myself by the way, and never used more then 35 watts and only on start up.
Curious to try the SS, hurry up already China post!
The only problem I have with Ti wire is that it is so springy that my coils always end up almost half a mm larger than the mandrel I wrap them on, but otherwise no complains. Imo experience it is very strong, I never had it break on me unless I wanted it to, bot with annealed wire as well as regular grade 1.
I don't feel comfortable dry burning it though, I tried to carefully pulls it at around 6W or so a few times when I first started using it but still got some white oxidation (as far as I could tell anyway).
So it is a bit harder to clean, carefully brushing the coil with a toothbrush under a running stream of hot water.
I'm usually around 215C myself by the way, and never used more then 35 watts and only on start up.
Curious to try the SS, hurry up already China post!
I think i used the wrong terms, i should have said priming the coil and pulsing the ti. And to not to let it get red hot and such and more a faint amber. Used to end up with a slight blue hue afterwards.
Was trying to find the web article and guide i read on the pros of ti g1 and vaping with it, but i dont see it bookmarked and my google foo is lacking atm.
But yeah, the thought of the potential white oxidation with ti, was what made me convert to 316L.
Was trying to find the web article and guide i read on the pros of ti g1 and vaping with it, but i dont see it bookmarked and my google foo is lacking atm.
But yeah, the thought of the potential white oxidation with ti, was what made me convert to 316L.
So I forget it's been a while since I've had an internal battery. Is this the type of mod I need to charge often, or is it better to let this drain most the way and charge it to full. I believe I remember for sake of battery health, I'm suppose to charge often but never to the full 4.2v cutoff. Can someone clarify? Thanks
Im no battery expert but i think its the opposite - dont let the battery completely drain, and charging at about half way doubles the life of the battery.
I'm still not certain what battery is in this thing to be honest, without knowing the chemistry it's impossible to answer that question.
Some say it's a LIPO, but it looks like a regular 18350, idk. If anyone knows anything about batteries and wants to have a look, there's a shot of the battery in the PBusardo review I posted a page back.
Some say it's a LIPO, but it looks like a regular 18350, idk. If anyone knows anything about batteries and wants to have a look, there's a shot of the battery in the PBusardo review I posted a page back.
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