Aspire batteries
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That would depend on coil resistance and wattage used. I doubt you will ever run it at 100 watts. While the Eleaf mod has built in safety features that will lock out dangerous situations/settings, I like to know what's going on. Given the battery is rated for 20 amps, I wouldn't consistently run it with settings that draw more current than that. If you'd like to figure out exactly how many amps you're using ... Ohm's law
The coil resistence is 0.22 I believe that around 21/22 amps at 100 watts the eleafe adjust voltage it self
You're good. Those batteries are rated at 20A and 100 watts pulls around 18.5A when the batts are almost empty. Check it out with the Steam Engine battery drain calculator. Each battery at 3V = 6V total in series. With fully charged batteries at 8.4V no-load you're drawing lower amps. At 75 watts max amp draw is around 14A.
Atty resistance doesn't matter if you're in VW mode, that's all about the watts. If you're in VV mode atty resistance matters, but the mod won't let you go over 100 watts.
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Thanks for the help just wanted to be sure they we're safe better safe than sorry
I am not familiar with the chemistry or the CDR of those Aspire cells, and to honest if Mooch hasn't tested them I wouldn't use them.
I would recommend investing in another two cells of known and tested CDR like the Samsung 25R or the LG HG2.
Ryedan's advice is right on the money about calculating the safe amp draw based on the minimum charge divided by the number of cells. However the iStick 100 uses a parallel battery config with buck/boost up to 10 volts.
So at 3.2 volts when the batteries are ready to swapped out, the amp draw is 17 amps per cell which is below the 20 amp CDR.
You can see the maths behind those calculations here, and/or use steam-engine to model them.
Remember with a regulated mod
I would recommend investing in another two cells of known and tested CDR like the Samsung 25R or the LG HG2.
Ryedan's advice is right on the money about calculating the safe amp draw based on the minimum charge divided by the number of cells. However the iStick 100 uses a parallel battery config with buck/boost up to 10 volts.
So at 3.2 volts when the batteries are ready to swapped out, the amp draw is 17 amps per cell which is below the 20 amp CDR.
You can see the maths behind those calculations here, and/or use steam-engine to model them.
Remember with a regulated mod
Thank you I will be careful when using them but they should be OK I don't go above 75 normaly
I'm just curious...why did you purchase the Aspire batteries when you can generally find authentic LGs, Sonys, and Samsungs actually for less money? I personally have two favorite batteries--Sony VTC4's and the LGHG2's.
You are also correct sir. It's just that if there ever is a problem that ICR's react more violently than IMR's or INR's. Follow proper charging and don't stress them too much and you'll be fine. Enjoy the day!
I'm using the eleaf istick at 75w 3.3v with a tfv4 tank 0.22 ohm and charging with mod
At some point you may just wonder what current battery recommendations are, although not all of these would be best for your configuration and battery/mod safety rules still apply, I'll just leave this here for future reference 'cause I don't have a link to it right off hand. Someone help us out ??
I know what the rec OK mendatios are I have a set of the Samsung 18650 batteries the aspire are my back up set they came with the mod when I got it so I'm using them for now I get paid once a month so can get more battery's yet
Aspire 1800mAh 18650 Bench (Re)Test Results...great at 20A, beating the 25R, equaling the VTC4
- "This is an ICR, lithium-cobalt, cell. While it has passed all the severe global safety standard testing without going into thermal runaway (even if directly shorted with a 0.07 ohm load), it still retains the characteristics of ICR cells; a lower thermal runaway threshold temperature and a more violent reaction when in thermal runaway. You alone will have to decide whether this is a concern or not." Mooch
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