Stopped by the local flea market to pick up a couple replacement heads. I have been rebuilding mine with good success experimenting with single and doubled 30ga A-1 Kanthal. I had 4 heads 1-2 I kept "stock" and 2 I rebuilt. The grommet that seals the bottom plug tore on one causing a short, so I wanted to replace it and get an extra.
I get in the vehicle, change the heads and notice one is in the blister pack one is not. The 2 extra I bought before were not in blister but single small ziplocks. This is a flea market booth, btw. So I drop 3-4 drop of juice down the pipe, do a few prime draws and start to enjoy a "new head" vape. Suddenly the tase starts changing after a few hits. I try covering the airhole and drawing hard to suck juice in.
When I get to looking at it, I realize that there are NO HOLES around the base for wicking! I was gonna return it, but figured I have a pin drill, so I can play around with smaller, larger or combo holes for 100% pg - 100% vg.
Just thought I'd share.
P.S.
I have also noticed I got originaly 2 heads that are smooth under the grommet and 2 heads that have a groove under the grommet where the negative lead sits. Any insight there?
I get in the vehicle, change the heads and notice one is in the blister pack one is not. The 2 extra I bought before were not in blister but single small ziplocks. This is a flea market booth, btw. So I drop 3-4 drop of juice down the pipe, do a few prime draws and start to enjoy a "new head" vape. Suddenly the tase starts changing after a few hits. I try covering the airhole and drawing hard to suck juice in.
When I get to looking at it, I realize that there are NO HOLES around the base for wicking! I was gonna return it, but figured I have a pin drill, so I can play around with smaller, larger or combo holes for 100% pg - 100% vg.
Just thought I'd share.
P.S.
I have also noticed I got originaly 2 heads that are smooth under the grommet and 2 heads that have a groove under the grommet where the negative lead sits. Any insight there?
