Aspire cf sub ohm battery with rda?

[ThunderDan]

hey guys if i was to ever order ome of those istick by eleaf does it automatically set your watts/volts for what ohm your using?

It has two modes, variable wattage (VW) and variable voltage (VV). Most people use it in VW mode, its the default mode out of the box, and people just seem to use watts these days.

You set the wattage, the istick reads the resistance of your atomizer, and calculates the appropriate voltage to apply when fired. VV mode you just set the desired voltage, and fire (it also displays the wattage but is just there for the end user).

 

[anthonyiro]

ok cool thanks so with the mini model is the only difference battery life? and how long do you think the mini versions battery would has as an estimate

 

[ThunderDan]

ok cool thanks so with the mini model is the only difference battery life? and how long do you think the mini versions battery would has as an estimate

No. The mini has different specs, only 10w, different minimum resistance. Other notable cons, the voltage output isn't very smooth due to the way the PWM is handled, the 510 is chrome brass.

Only iSticks worth getting anymore are the 30w and 50w variants. If you fully know what you are getting into with the mini it might be OK for some. I thinks its worth the extra $10-15 for the 30w.

 

[anthonyiro]

gotcha i dont mean to sound dumb but would it work on an rda if the correct ohms build was on it

 

[ThunderDan]

gotcha i dont mean to sound dumb but would it work on an rda if the correct ohms build was on it

The mini doesn't really have enough wattage to get a good experience out of a RDA. Its mainly for clearomizers, like the eleaf GS air, or similar.

 

[anthonyiro]

okay how bout a 20 or 30 watt eleaf

 

[ThunderDan]

okay how bout a 20 or 30 watt eleaf

The 30w is much nicer. Basically everything they got wrong on the 20w they fixed on the 30w.

 

[anthonyiro]

okay thanks alot may purchase a 30 watt sometime soon

 

[BlueCanary]

okay how bout a 20 or 30 watt eleaf

20W iStick sucks for RBAs in my experience. The center pin isn't spring loaded, for one thing, so it can't read lots of RBAs unless they have an adjustable pin. (Mine wouldn't read my TOBH, as the center pin was too short and not adjustable). Plus, it needs to be at least 1.0 ohms to fire…and at that resistance the 20w iStick does not have enough caboose in its pants to heat the coils very fast so there is a serious lag. Get the 30 or the 50 if you want to use rebuildables on it, is my opinion. It's worth the 10-20 extra bucks.

 

[anthonyiro]

thanks i think i will be getting the 30 watt. i will be using a tobh but if the connection is too short would it fit? with the updated spring loaded version did they raise the connector more than the older version?

 

[BlueCanary]

thanks i think i will be getting the 30 watt. i will be using a tobh but if the connection is too short would it fit? with the updated spring loaded version did they raise the connector more than the older version?

I have not used the 30w iStick, or the 50. If they have a spring loaded 510 pin (and I think that they do) it should be fine with most anything you want to put on it.

 

[ThunderDan]

I have not used the 30w iStick, or the 50. If they have a spring loaded 510 pin (and I think that they do) it should be fine with most anything you want to put on it.

Yeah, it does have a spring load 510, and they beefed up the 510 threading with SS instead of chromed brass on the 20w.