at my wits end with my protank 2
- Thread starter rwmeade
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figured out my problem and my new part will be here in a few days...this helped me a lot.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3haz-dLO8iU&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3haz-dLO8iU&feature=youtu.be
I used to answer these questions. Now so many people post with so many silly suggestions, I just gave up.
Never over tighten any device. It always eventually causes problems.
Never Remove a Wick unless the unit simply will Not wick properly after a tank or so. Power off Prime instead.
Never dispose of a removed wick. Next fill it may start flooding and you will need to place it back in.
When attempting to clear a Gurgle - Remember there is condensation/e-liquid build up in the tube. Place Tip down on a tissue. Blow lightly from connection end. Allow to sit a few minutes. Wipe off and use a Q-tip to clear Drip Tip.
Simple fix for light gurgle - light long draws.
Once familiar with a ProTank, Evod,T3, ETC. - they will rarely show any issues. No dry hitting, no flooding, no needing to be 2/3 full?
Who ever decided that one needs to rethink reason. Why have a 3ml tank that can only vape out 1ml before requiring refilling?
I vape my tanks DRY without any sign of flooding............Unmodified!
yeah, i never do any of things you mentioned. its my base and nothing that i have done, thank god.
i vape all my 5 other pt dry, this one was funny. 5 days later it crashes...ugh
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i gotta tell ya that the mini protank2 does no better then the protank2. so not sure if the base will help you. you might get better air flow but then now you prob will have a issue with wicking issues. but good luck. let us know how it goes.
Actually it's an eGo base, so it uses the eGo cone threads rather than the 510 connection. My Aro tanks use the eGo threads and the bases on those do not have the airflow issues the PT2 has. Wicking/flood issues often come from airflow problems, as does lack of vapor. This base will def change things around for the better, I'd think. So I am curious too and hope the OP posts back with results.
Sorry, but I tried explaining to that guy from Youtube through email - His fix is Not a Fix and simply a work around.
If a base has gone bad, perhaps lost a thread and the wick is screwing to far down, then you replace the base. plenty of venders sell it.
Base issues include -
Threading to deep. Atomizer screws down to far. Top will not seal to pipe and Unit floods.
Holes drilled improperly and/or flashing from drilling in 510 connection. Poor/no air flow. Clear holes and all flashing. If needed drill holes 1 size larger to increase air flow(more like original Protank draw)
Some, not a lot, but some replacement coils have a center pin grommet that is to thick and will cut air flow. This can be detected Off the mod by simply attempting to draw. Will be very tight. Only fixes - Replace head or trim excess grommet around base of head to flush.
If a base has gone bad, perhaps lost a thread and the wick is screwing to far down, then you replace the base. plenty of venders sell it.
Base issues include -
Threading to deep. Atomizer screws down to far. Top will not seal to pipe and Unit floods.
Holes drilled improperly and/or flashing from drilling in 510 connection. Poor/no air flow. Clear holes and all flashing. If needed drill holes 1 size larger to increase air flow(more like original Protank draw)
Some, not a lot, but some replacement coils have a center pin grommet that is to thick and will cut air flow. This can be detected Off the mod by simply attempting to draw. Will be very tight. Only fixes - Replace head or trim excess grommet around base of head to flush.
But the thing is, this doesn't happen (even with a fat grommet) in eGo bases b/c the airflow / design of the base is different. I am dealing with this issue just now b/c of using silicone tubing to make my own grommets to get rid of the yucky rubber taste. I found when I screwed on the tank to the mod (very lightly mind you), this depressed the pin just enough to make the silicone compress and flare out. This tiny bit of deviation can completely block air flow in the PT2 base, and you have to back the tank off a bit even though it wasn't tight to begin with, or even near tight. But it's not a problem in my 2 Aro tanks with the eGo cone thread base, unless the deviation is severe, meaning you crank the tank down until it stops turning, which one should never do anyway. There seems to be far better airflow (and therefore more room for fat grommets)
in the eGo base design. Just my experience... but I can see how swapping the base could help many people with different flooding and airflow issues because of that.
what i was trying to say was i have the protank 2 mini v2. i get terrible performance do to air flow. there is a good deal of it so juice isnt coming into the head chamber to get attomized. i tried taping 1/3 holes and it helped a bit but still get dry hits. tried taping 2/3 holes and i get a very tight draw with pretty much flooding at that point. there is no happy medium. for me anyway.
Good airflow usually doesn't result in a lack of juice. The opposite actually. Sounds like a wicking problem related to the wick itself [vs airflow]... as in too many flavor wicks perhaps?
I personally don't think silica wicks well even when the wick setup is maximized for the juice ratio (VG/PG) -- you might find your issues disappear if you re-wick with cotton, though don't know if you're up for rebuilding.
Yes, taping up the holes will draw more juice in, but you shouldn't need to do that to get proper wicking. Usually one has to increase air flow when wicking is poor.
Some ppl with your problem (getting dry/burnt hits) have success turning the silicone cup on the head stem upside down so the wicking divets in the head have access to more juice (and for others this causes flooding). But I'd suggest removing a flavor wick and trying it... then another if needed to try again. Depending on your juice thickness you might need just one or no flavor wicks, and I believe Kanger heads ship with two FWs, but I tear them apart and toss the silica so I might not be remembering correctly.
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I'm hoping the OP has sorted the problem, it's usually easier when you have you have more than one of the same working tank as swapping parts to track down the problem becomes a lot easier. I have only been vaping since Oct this year and started out with Kangetechs recommended by a good friend, PT Mini II V1-V2 and PT II's. All the tanks I bought were manufactured within working tolerances after reading a lot from various forums and other vapers experiences I went through an initial checklist. Inspect unit for any manufacturing issues, strip down, check all parts, check all seals and washers, boil parts in water, soak all parts in vodka/IPA, clean air access (drip trips etc) & all threads with cloths and cotton buds, fit the atty into the base for testing usually I strip down the atty from new removing the flavour wicks (I vape 100% VG and replace the flavour wick(s) with Ekowool dependent on what juice I am vaping) do test burns to check the coil heating evenness, prime wick(s) with juice, test burn making sure all is ok, assemble the atty, assemble the tank, fill with a little juice, do some test draws to check air flow, bubbles, gurgling, attach the tank to the PV, check atty resistance and test vape. Most problems i have found are with the base assembly so confirming you have a working setup (seals, air holes, atty etc) you can swap it out I have read there maybe some manufacturing problems, pre release versions or other issues. Vaping tech can have a somewhat steep learning curve smoking was way way easier but that was built into its mass design as the industry just wants you to consume a NGV's. I am going to retire my PT's as I have moved on, when I have enough posts and get verified I will mostly probably sell them here in the classifieds. ECF is a great forum for all vapers and a wonderful resource for the vaping community.
Vape on!
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Vape on!
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