Atomizer / Cartomizer for life....

[P3ST1L3NC3]

fixed my problem. soaked my silica in rubbing alcohol for about 30 minutes, then rinsed with hot water thoroughly. when i couldnt smell alcohol any more i laid it out in a pyrex baking dish and baked it at 500 degrees for about 20 minutes / until it was dry. wrapped some 36ga nichrome wire around a strand 5 times, and it works great. no foul taste. it is still a little strong of a throat hit, but is vape-able. i think i need to experiment on how much silica im using, to get the proper amount of smoke vs. throat hit, and also may play with different lengths of wire for different resistance. for now, im leaving the silica wick long and using it as my filler material, building my coils to around 3.7-4.0 ohms, and using a GLV at 5-6 volts.

ps. that german guy is awesome. lemme know where you guys find ss mesh at...

 

[Persis]

Good news P3ST1L3NC3, I want pictures..... Is the best way to show the work and to receive observations.

1) What OD are your wicks ???
2) How do you wrap the nichrome ? Directely ? or with a nut or something inserted that you can quit after ?
3) what means "rubbing" ? I dont understand that word... what alcohol is ? I only have ethilic alcohol 96%.

Thx.

 

[asdaq]

Persis, it is usually isopropanol, and used for skin/massage treatment. Your ethanol will do the trick just fine too.

 

[cliffy1]

Y'know... considering my fading eyesight, I might be willing to pay for that as well. Working with really small stuff is NOT one of my strong points.

X 1 here......... I would also like to put my foot in as well to buy if someone wanted to sell

 

[Persis]

I have finished the carto itself, and it works, I know that because I put on it a coil of an used but alive ego megacarto and it works enough well.

But, I still have problems with my own coils, I am very disappointed.

I have soacked in alcohol, washed, cleared, cooked the silica and I have maked diferents coils with 36ga and 38 ga Nichrome at around 3 and 4 ohms and no way:

I get a bad bad taste, a stranger sweet taste, and I dont feel the real taste of the liquid, and furthermore, I dont get a good vapor and the TH is very strong, and is not like the nicotine TH, is diferent, is sharp and irritating.

Notes that can help:

- The coil dont glow so quickly.
- I have tested only driping on the coil. No filler material used.
- The distance between the coil and the top of the tube is 3mm, and I have tested with more distance with the same result.
- The 2 original holes of the fitting were sealed, and I have maked only one new hole of 1mm that allow the air to pass through the tube from outside to the coil
- The silica inserted into the coil, becomes brown at the 7º or 10º puff, and the nichrome wire leaves a dark black mark over the silica where it is wrapped, and the silica becomes into something similar to the body of a bee.
- I am testing always at 3.7v

PLEASE HELP FRIENDS..... I AM CLOGGED.

THX.....

 

[roadrash]

Maybe this will help. The closer the coil winding the better the vapor. The further away the coil winding the more throat hit.
How do I know? I made a horseshoe shaped coil with a extra wide winding. @ 3.2 ohms and @ 3.4 volts the throat hit almost killed me. no vapor just a big TH.

(The silica inserted into the coil, becomes brown at the 7º or 10º puff, and the nichrome wire leaves a dark black mark over the silica where it is wrapped, and the silica becomes into something similar to the body of a bee.)

Mine are always like that. maybe the VG?

 

[Persis]

Maybe this will help. The closer the coil winding the better the vapor. The further away the coil winding the more throat hit.
How do I know? I made a horseshoe shaped coil with a extra wide winding. @ 3.2 ohms and @ 3.4 volts the throat hit almost killed me. no vapor just a big TH.

(The silica inserted into the coil, becomes brown at the 7º or 10º puff, and the nichrome wire leaves a dark black mark over the silica where it is wrapped, and the silica becomes into something similar to the body of a bee.)

Mine are always like that. maybe the VG?

Hey.... roadrash... YOU HAS CATCHED THE MOUSE !!!!!! Thankyou very very very much !!!

It works perfectly now, I found my point of taste, vapor, and TH.

I was making the coil too wide and the loops too distant, I adjusted that and Boila !!!! I am vaping on a device like a 510 atty.


Finally I could make the coil with this system:

Besides, I adjusted the air hole to 0.5 mm instead of 1 mm.

NOW, I HAVE MY ALL SS CARTO; ONLY ONE SOLDER (AT BOTTOM, AWAY FROM THE COIL); NO EPOXY; NO COPPER !!!!! YEAHHH

Thanks again Roadrash... and Thanks to everyone who helped me:

l3oertjie of course, and...
Asdaq
WillyB
Scubabatdan
KYFlyer67
and specially to my friend BUBO, without his silica rope I could not do the work.

I am happy.

 

[l3oertjie]

Glad it works now!

 

[asdaq]

This is ugly and cobbled together, but as a testbed I'm quite pleased so far:

There really isn't much to see on the outside either, but you can just make out how much juice I need to vape before I can open it and get some better pics... but let me describe:

I pulled apart an old carto (that ego batt came apart 1st) admired the burnt filler, cleaned up the pieces and got to it. Using the copper strand wrap around 18G needle sections, I soldered one to the center post (slightly off center) and the other to the inside of the negative part. The copper is encased in silver solder, so I'm not that worried about it causing harm. The points of solder match the original wiring closely, but the negative was done 2x and the second time on the opposite side. Reassembly with the rubber insulator was tight, but fits in the end, there is a bit of rubber pinched but it works.

From there it just has SS sewing needle sections holding the coil and wick in place and at some point I stuck a random piece of clear vinyl tubing from a pile of clutter on the carto tube which has stayed for now. It makes it easy to remove the carto tube and has the juice window effect. The coil is under the carto tube just about where the vinyl tube stops. A shorter piece that is actually cut straight might be good as it provides a nice seal and is easier to remove than the original carto tube.

Right now the vape is too airy and my wick is too long and I need to practice some with making the coil, but it is a nice start.

Hats off to l3oertjie!

 

[Bubo]

Thanks again Roadrash... and Thanks to everyone who helped me:

l3oertjie of course, and...
Asdaq
WillyB
Scubabatdan
KYFlyer67
and specially to my friend BUBO, without his silica rope I could not do the work.

I am happy.

Beer and Bananas!

 

[Persis]

This is ugly and cobbled together, but as a testbed I'm quite pleased so far:

There really isn't much to see on the outside either, but you can just make out how much juice I need to vape before I can open it and get some better pics... but let me describe:

I pulled apart an old carto (that ego batt came apart 1st) admired the burnt filler, cleaned up the pieces and got to it. Using the copper strand wrap around 18G needle sections, I soldered one to the center post (slightly off center) and the other to the inside of the negative part. The copper is encased in silver solder, so I'm not that worried about it causing harm. The points of solder match the original wiring closely, but the negative was done 2x and the second time on the opposite side. Reassembly with the rubber insulator was tight, but fits in the end, there is a bit of rubber pinched but it works.

From there it just has SS sewing needle sections holding the coil and wick in place and at some point I stuck a random piece of clear vinyl tubing from a pile of clutter on the carto tube which has stayed for now. It makes it easy to remove the carto tube and has the juice window effect. The coil is under the carto tube just about where the vinyl tube stops. A shorter piece that is actually cut straight might be good as it provides a nice seal and is easier to remove than the original carto tube.

Right now the vape is too airy and my wick is too long and I need to practice some with making the coil, but it is a nice start.

Hats off to l3oertjie!

and the Air ???

I dont understando how works the air passage in the system.

Tell us what do you did with the original holes of the fitting.
And how the coil is ventilated through the central tube. Or there are not air passage through the central tube ?

 

[asdaq]

The air passage is the same as with the original carto. Just in place of the positive wire is a 18G needle. Sorry but I didn't manage to get pics today. At 5v it doesn't seem so airy, almost like the original it used to be.

 

[Persis]

OK. but the original carto gets air from 2 holes on the fitting, and I see that the inner part of the fitting in your design is completely full of liquid, then, the 2 holes are covered, and In addition, don't have leaking ?

 

[asdaq]

There are 2 holes on the sides of the carto threading, but they are blocked by the rubber insulator. The center post has a longer tube and is slotted at the bottom to let air in. The top of this tube ends higher than how far you can see in this vinyl tubing from my pic. Below this point it can pool without leaking, and it isn't so much pooling as it is a lot of soggy wick. It could leak if the wick had too much juice. Or if the vinyl tube popped off.

 

[Persis]

OK, clear now....

Please, keep us informed about condensation, because my device is very similar to yours in measures and construccion and I am having too much condensation, I can see that because I am using a syringe tube as the shield.

Is very important to can eliminate the condensation and I cant do this for now.

 

[roadrash]

OK, I may be out in left field again. My thought is you are going to have the condensation in your tube and in your mouth and or lungs always. We are making hot steam and as soon as it hits a lower temperature it will begin to condensate. The faster you blow out the steam the less condensation is in your mouth or lungs. If you hold in the steam in your mouth and or lungs for a while. No steam comes out as it has all condensated. Hope this makes sense to ya.

OK, clear now....

Please, keep us informed about condensation, because my device is very similar to yours in measures and construccion and I am having too much condensation, I can see that because I am using a syringe tube as the shield.

Is very important to can eliminate the condensation and I cant do this for now.

 

[asdaq]

I really haven't noticed a problem with the condensation, it is there, but doesn't impact performance. I redid the vinyl tube, but it is just way to easy to fall off in the pocket so it is going too.

Rather than open up the 1st one for pics, I just went ahead and took pics of the second as things progressed.



The center post needle had to be moved to the top of the tube more to get through the connector hole. This could be even more so and in line as there is plenty of air getting through.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4127/5178207439_620a2a7e32_z.jpg


[/URL]

With wig installed. Thicker wick and not longer than the needed length makes it less messy to take the tube off.

They work great, with a suckaton juice is provided, and I'll be satisfied til my SS mesh arrives.
Also they are quite fun to make, reminds me of tying flies.

 

[roadrash]

I really haven't noticed a problem with the condensation, it is there, but doesn't impact performance. I redid the vinyl tube, but it is just way to easy to fall off in the pocket so it is going too.

Rather than open up the 1st one for pics, I just went ahead and took pics of the second as things progressed.



The center post needle had to be moved to the top of the tube more to get through the connector hole. This could be even more so and in line as there is plenty of air getting through.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4127/5178207439_620a2a7e32_z.jpg


[/URL]

With wig installed. Thicker wick and not longer than the needed length makes it less messy to take the tube off.

They work great, with a suckaton juice is provided, and I'll be satisfied til my SS mesh arrives.
Also they are quite fun to make, reminds me of tying flies.

Asdaq, A couple help hints maybe.
I use the gold colored center post from a 510 LR carto for the center post. Then I take a silver colored 510 carto center post and drill the battery connnector with a 5/64 drill bit. Which gives it a snug fit over the gold colored one. This way you can solder your positive SS tube to the drilled out silver center post on the work bench and install on top of the gold post. Easy removal if need be.
Also if you make one of the SS tubes higher than the other. You can do a vertical coil or a Raidy coil.

 

[WillyB]

What is that pretty wick material??

 

[asdaq]

I'm afraid to tell you Willy. Lets just say I made it BIO again by vigorous washing and baking. Something about lubricant or binders left over from production. Otherwise just fiberglass. Comes braided, there are 4 main strands that come undone when pulled on in pairs, not like usual braiding. It loves to be straight too.

Those needles aren't soo crooked as they appear in those pics either.