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You have to wrap very carefully to avoid criss-crossing and shorting. Speaking of shorting, I've noticed that nichrome 60 is much less likely to short than nichrome 80. In fact, you can oxidize nichrome 60 just like you can oxidize ss mesh. You can oxidize nichrome 60 and wrap it around a nail and it won't short. Not so with nichrome 80 and I have no idea about kanthal because I've never used it.
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KY, that looped winding of yours is brilliant in my opinion. Makes my mind dizzy with new ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Yes, I'm a legend in my own mind
I'm currently working on a P&N/Genesis atty that uses a stopper cut out of a silicone spatula. As I mentioned earlier, I'll post the details on it once I have it completed. This atty is pictured in post #379, but the final product will be quite a bit different from that one.I just can't seem to stop myself from trying all sorts of crazy things in my pursuit to build a better atty. There's one thing I really want to try, but not sure if/when I'll get to it - That is to build an atty that uses a laser to vaporize the e-liquid. I'm convinced it can be done in a very small package that will run on a single 3.7 lipo cell. The laser diode in a typical DVD-RW drive is small and has low power requirements. It's powerful enough to etch metal at close range if focused properly. Of course a burning laser can blind you instantly if it hits your retina, so that might diminish the popularity of a laser e-cig
If you google "diy laser pointer dvd", you'll see what I'm talking about. I wonder if anyone has attempted a laser-based atty?Alright, I'm pretty new to the thread, but I think I get it. What I'm wondering, however, is whether someone may be able to throw together a kit. I can probably disassemble an atty or carto for what I need there, but honestly, ordering a few tiny items from several suppliers is not only tedious, it's bank-breaking. Especially since I'm not willing to fully commit just yet. I just want to try my hand at one or a few first.
Any chance anyone has some of the supplies you wouldn't mind parting with? I'd be willing to pay shipping, plus some kind of fee for the effort if required. It would just be so much more affordable and easier than finding the wicking material, nichrome wire and anything else that's not salvageable from an old atty or carto.
Any chance anyone has some of the supplies you wouldn't mind parting with? I'd be willing to pay shipping, plus some kind of fee for the effort if required. It would just be so much more affordable and easier than finding the wicking material, nichrome wire and anything else that's not salvageable from an old atty or carto.
OK, well now I think I disagree with both of us. I should've just said "lipo cell" instead of "3.7 lipo cell". My understanding is that a lipo cell ranges from 2.7v (nearly completely discharged) to 4.2v (fully charged). However, e-cig lipos are often stated to be 3.7v batteries even though that isn't entirely accurate.
Better?? Worse??
Still not right.
Li-Ions, 3.7V nominal, 4.2V fully charged
Li-POs, 3V nominal (sometimes referred to as 3.2V working), 3.6V fully charged.
There are also 3V Li-Ions, but they are actually 3.7V cells with a tiny regulator built in to drop the volts.
E-cigs use Li-Ions.
Most commercial e-cig batts use some sort of electronics to drop/meter/regulate a Li-Ions voltage, hence an eGo comes in at ~3.1V or so vaping/loaded volts whereas a naked 18650 may start out out at ~3.8V.
Li-Ions, 3.7V nominal, 4.2V fully charged
Li-POs, 3V nominal (sometimes referred to as 3.2V working), 3.6V fully charged.
There are also 3V Li-Ions, but they are actually 3.7V cells with a tiny regulator built in to drop the volts.
E-cigs use Li-Ions.
Most commercial e-cig batts use some sort of electronics to drop/meter/regulate a Li-Ions voltage, hence an eGo comes in at ~3.1V or so vaping/loaded volts whereas a naked 18650 may start out out at ~3.8V.
Still not right.
Li-Ions, 3.7V nominal, 4.2V fully charged
Li-POs, 3V nominal (sometimes referred to as 3.2V working), 3.6V fully charged.
There are also 3V Li-Ions, but they are actually 3.7V cells with a tiny regulator built in to drop the volts.
E-cigs use Li-Ions.
Most commercial e-cig batts use some sort of electronics to drop/meter/regulate a Li-Ions voltage, hence an eGo comes in at ~3.1V or so vaping/loaded volts whereas a naked 18650 may start out out at ~3.8V.
It is damned hard to get one by you, WB!
You are correct. My reference is to Li-Ions, not Li-Polymers. I'm an RC guy, and most of the batteries I've worked with outside my e-cig habit (hobby?) have been LiPos.I discovered recently that instead of cutting a little tab to hold the loop, it's easier and more secure to just poke a little hole in the mesh and run the nichrome through the hole.
My apologies for taking so long to respond gents - have been busy at work.
I am in the process of making another atty and will take some nice pitures as I go along.
Sofar as the cigar shield: All I did was to look for a nice picture of a tobacco leaf, printed on an A3 sheet of normal paper, cut a long strip (about 300mm x 25mm) of the picture where the natural leaf tones looks nice and rolled that around the atty and battery. Once properly rolled, I painted it on the outside with a two part clear epoxy coat and waited for it to dry. I then cut the shield on the atty / battery split as well as the atomizer cap.
I did however find that the epoxy sometimes doesn't penetrate the paper properly and when cleaning the assembly it can absorb water causing decolourisation of the printed paper in some places.
At the moment my PV has a shiny stainless steel appearance - will get back to the cigar look when done with the new atomizer.
I'm still using this atomizer design: It delivers great TH and taste and is easy to maintain.
Wow, I like this, it looks super easy to replace the coil. Don't suppose you'd post parts source/price? What make/model of e-cigar is that?
I just made my first coil tonight, very proud of myself.
I used a vortex from GotVapes, I'll post pics when I get them off my phone.
It wasn't that hard, but hard on my eyes. LOVE these cartos (vortex) and with no modding, you can replace the coil. I like the atty/coil from the one l3oertjie made, but for my first coil, I'm pretty proud of myself.
After taking the carto apart and removing the coil, I wrapped a new coil, put the rubber back in the center, put one end of the coil wire down the outside of the rubber, and the other one down the inside. I put the center plug in, tightened/pulled the wires down and trimmed them. That's it.
I did have to replace the outer tube, the original got loose and was leaking, even if only barely. I had been using this carto for about 2 weeks, and removed/replaced the outer tube a number of times without leaks. The original coil was still working fine, I just wanted to see if I could do it and didn't want to wait for it to die. I would recommend anyone get the spare tubes that GotVapes sells, even though they are for 510 CE2s, the work fine on the Vortex. I used the regular sized tube, mostly because it was what I had handy, and I think the XL tubes MAY be too tall, I'll check this later. I did have to snip the inner tube a little.
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Yankee802, that looks great!
What wick will you be using? I am using a silica rope and it works well. I coil the nichrome around a thin (ø1.75mm) steel tube and cut the ends to length, twist the rope through the windings and then insert the ends into the needles and pin them tight. Takes three minutes top.
Always remember the ensure that the nichrome coil touches the wick everywhere else it could cause a burnt taste when the non-touching part of the coil glows red hot. Usually you will also feel the air temperature increase if the coil is not properly making contact with the wick.
This is my current atty's top end with a week old coil. Still going strong and probably good for another week or so.
What wick will you be using? I am using a silica rope and it works well. I coil the nichrome around a thin (ø1.75mm) steel tube and cut the ends to length, twist the rope through the windings and then insert the ends into the needles and pin them tight. Takes three minutes top.
Always remember the ensure that the nichrome coil touches the wick everywhere else it could cause a burnt taste when the non-touching part of the coil glows red hot. Usually you will also feel the air temperature increase if the coil is not properly making contact with the wick.
This is my current atty's top end with a week old coil. Still going strong and probably good for another week or so.
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That is a l3oertjie special Yankee802.... Look a few pages back - you will see how the idea grew from way back on post 1.
This thread is awesome.
Yankee and oertijie, those looks awesome! Might have to order a Vortex to play around with, or some CE2s if they can be rebuilt.
Thanks all! I HATE having to buy new atomizers!
Yankee and oertijie, those looks awesome! Might have to order a Vortex to play around with, or some CE2s if they can be rebuilt.
Thanks all! I HATE having to buy new atomizers!
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