Attempting to join the world of RBAs..

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Oktyabr

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yeah i just got an aga-t + and really like it. but was wondering if anyone knows what mesh and ga wire they send out with it?

I've tried to find that answer out myself. I'm fairly certain the wire is a lighter gauge, probably 34 or 36 even, although it didn't survive very long on my first attempt. The mesh is said by some to be 400 but who really knows? I placed an order for full A4 sheets of both 400 and 500 from The Mesh Company: Online Shop for Woven, Knitted and Perforated Mesh for Art, Craft, Floristry, Modelling and Engineering but am happily puffing away on the supplied mystery mesh until it gets here.
 

Hello World

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yeah i just got an aga-t + and really like it. but was wondering if anyone knows what mesh and ga wire they send out with it?
You cannot go wrong with 30ga Kanthal and a 12" by 12" 500 stainless steel mesh sheet.

Also, ceramic wick is a better alternative to ss mesh. Gone are the usual installation headaches newbies routinely experience and the flavor tastes are second to none: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...stems/379380-fc-2000-porous-ceramic-wick.html
 
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Before jumping to aga-t and tanks, I'd get a dripping RBA like IGO-L, some cotton wick (or silica) and wire.

Easy to setup, cheap, easy to swap coils.

I have aga-t2 and had successful setups with SS mesh, 325 (for 100%VG juice) and 500. Also I got fc-2000 wick and they don't work for me with aga-t2. The wick is too thin and wicks poor.

Personally I like my ago-l with cotton wick more than any of aga-t2 setups.
 

The Yeti

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OK, so I got some 28awg wire yesterday and wound up a new coil on my ZAP (only second one). Also got some new 400 mesh and twisted a new wick - I did a much better job on both this second time around with all the tips and tricks from this thread and elsewhere on ECF, thanks!

With a 5 wraps of 28awg it's at 1.3ohms so I can only get it up to 4.2v on the ProVari. It seems to work very well once it comes up to temp, but is very slow getting there. Is this normal for 28awg? Or, could it have something to do with the very fat, very solid wick I rolled?

If it will help with speed, I have some 32awg I could try tonight.
 

The Yeti

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OK, so I got some 28awg wire yesterday and wound up a new coil on my ZAP (only second one). Also got some new 400 mesh and twisted a new wick - I did a much better job on both this second time around with all the tips and tricks from this thread and elsewhere on ECF, thanks!

With a 5 wraps of 28awg it's at 1.3ohms so I can only get it up to 4.2v on the ProVari. It seems to work very well once it comes up to temp, but is very slow getting there. Is this normal for 28awg? Or, could it have something to do with the very fat, very solid wick I rolled?

If it will help with speed, I have some 32awg I could try tonight.
 

Hello World

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OK, so I got some 28awg wire yesterday and wound up a new coil on my ZAP (only second one). Also got some new 400 mesh and twisted a new wick - I did a much better job on both this second time around with all the tips and tricks from this thread and elsewhere on ECF, thanks!

With a 5 wraps of 28awg it's at 1.3ohms so I can only get it up to 4.2v on the ProVari. It seems to work very well once it comes up to temp, but is very slow getting there. Is this normal for 28awg? Or, could it have something to do with the very fat, very solid wick I rolled?

If it will help with speed, I have some 32awg I could try tonight.
That's what I have. ZAP, fat 1/8 wick that fills the hole, 28ga, 500 mesh, 1.2Ω @ 3.7volts on the Provari, and she kicks up instantly.

▪ Wick should be rolled vertical with the grain of the mesh.

▪ Make sure your connections are tight, and no excessive play exists between the mesh and the coil.

▪ Make sure your coils are well-lit using the Pulse method.

▪ Tip it for 5 secs, then see how that goes.

▪ Cleaning electrical contacts once in a while can also make a huge difference.
 
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The Yeti

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That's what I have. ZAP, fat 1/8 wick that fills the hole, 28ga, 500 mesh, 1.2Ω @ 3.7volts on the Provari, and she kicks up instantly.

▪ Wick should be rolled vertical with the grain of the mesh.

▪ Make sure your connections are tight, and no excessive play exists between the mesh and the coil.

▪ Make sure your coils are well-lit using the Pulse method.

▪ Tip it for 5 secs, then see how that goes.

▪ Cleaning electrical contacts once in a while can also make a huge difference.

Hmmm....your's sounds very similar, huh?

Not sure if I rolled the wick with or against the grain - wasn't aware of that little bit of info - but it's wicking great.

Coil is tight against wick, but not strangling it.

Coils light up nice and even on dry wick, but take just a second or two to get there.

Maybe it's my resistance wire - I'm using Kanthal.....?
 

Hello World

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Hmmm....your's sounds very similar, huh?

Not sure if I rolled the wick with or against the grain - wasn't aware of that little bit of info - but it's wicking great.

Coil is tight against wick, but not strangling it.

Coils light up nice and even on dry wick, but take just a second or two to get there.

Maybe it's my resistance wire - I'm using Kanthal.....?
Ya, seems similar.

Lack of adequate airflow into the tank can also restrict juice wicking up to the coil.

You didn't indicate if you are doing any better now.

Kanthal & Nico are your options, but I doubt using either makes any difference as far as getting your juice vaporized. I've dumped SS anywho, acridic taste and lack of clean flavor was the breakpoint to move over to ceramic.
 

JetSet

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after using RBA's i would never use anything else,no other atomiser or cartomiser can give you the same vape.

Cartomisers taste horrible to me now. I use to spend $10 for a pack of 5 and hope that more than 3 of them would work. Now, I have 100ft of 28ga, 100ft of 30ga, 6x12 400 mesh, 6x12 500 mesh and 21ft of silica wick. Total cost spent about $50 in february. Haven't needed to buy any more materials since then and I still have a lot left.
 

The Yeti

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Ya, seems similar.

Lack of adequate airflow into the tank can also restrict juice wicking up to the coil.

You didn't indicate if you are doing any better now.

Kanthal & Nico are your options, but I doubt using either makes any difference as far as getting your juice vaporized. I've dumped SS anywho, acridic taste and lack of clean flavor was the breakpoint to move over to ceramic.

I tried some 32awwg Kanthal this weekend with similar results as far as speed goes, but more trouble with hot spots so I went back to the 28awg. When I used the stock wick (from Zen), that was much, much smaller than the "fatty" I got goin' now, it seemed to heat up much faster - hence my theory that it's the fat wick acting as a heat sink.

I'm gonna try cleaning up the contacts on my Provari tonight. After you mentioned it, I took a look at it and it is pretty dirty. :glare:

I get great vapor and flavor the way I have it set up now (no acrid taste as long as I work out all the hot spots), but I am jonesin' to try me some ceramic wicks, just waiting for them to get back in stock. ;)
 

Hello World

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... hence my theory that it's the fat wick acting as a heat sink.
I have a 4.5" inch (mesh length) 1/8" rolled rock solid 500 SS wick in the ZAP and I take maybe 1 primer puff at most and she's cooking away at 1.2Ω and 3.7 volts. If all issues I had mentioned above are in order, then it seems to me you are either not getting enough juice or power to the coil.

I'm gonna try cleaning up the contacts on my Provari tonight. After you mentioned it, I took a look at it and it is pretty dirty. :glare:
Items to clean with ISO Propelene:

▪ The 510 Springed pos. contact pin and threading of the ZAP.

▪ The 510 threading and contact terminal of the Provari.

▪ The top and bottom of the spring inside the Provari's battery tube. (Just thread it out)

▪ The inside bottom of the battery cap where the bottom of the spring makes contact.

▪ The bottom threadings of both the Provari battery tube and cap.

▪ The battery, both sides.

▪ The positive contact inside the Provari's battery tube just behind the circuit board. (Use Q-tip & ISO Prop. Someone had also suggested to use the eraser on the back of a pencil to remove grimed on deposits.)

Also, once in a while you'll have to completely strip down & disassemble the ZAP and give it an ISO bath. There are 2 - 3 threads on this board that show you via pics and vids exactly how to do that. Old juice deposits inside the pos. post can cause poor electrical contact between the metal parts.

(no acrid taste as long as I work out all the hot spots)
That would not easily become apparent until you've vaped with ceramic. A comparative angle is kinda required.

I am jonesin' to try me some ceramic wicks, just waiting for them to get back in stock. ;)
Good luck with that. :toast:
 
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The Yeti

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I tried some 32awwg Kanthal this weekend with similar results as far as speed goes, but more trouble with hot spots so I went back to the 28awg. When I used the stock wick (from Zen), that was much, much smaller than the "fatty" I got goin' now, it seemed to heat up much faster - hence my theory that it's the fat wick acting as a heat sink.

I'm gonna try cleaning up the contacts on my Provari tonight. After you mentioned it, I took a look at it and it is pretty dirty. :glare:

I get great vapor and flavor the way I have it set up now (no acrid taste as long as I work out all the hot spots), but I am jonesin' to try me some ceramic wicks, just waiting for them to get back in stock. ;)

I got some more speed out of it! Using 2 lengths of 32awg kanthal twisted together. 5 wraps came out to 1.3ohms. Working very well! Still not quite as fast as my silica based attys at 0.9 ohms, but I can live with it.
 
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