So the connections are taking between 0.3 ohms and 2 ohms.
Heat generated in the legs is more or less wasted.
But good to see your progress Well done!
Heat generated in the legs is more or less wasted.
But good to see your progress Well done!
Small diameter copper capillary tube may be impossible to obtain. Unfortunately, it's apparently not produced in the US where you can actually communicate with manufacturers. None of the f's in UK, China or India will answer an email, even when it's routed through an intermediary like Global Sources.
This brings me to Plan B. Hypodermic needles. These will be much more difficult to work than copper. They're brittle stainless steel but what can you do? At least they're conductive and available in a variety of diameters. These particular needles are 0.87 mm OD. Slightly smaller than the smallest copper cap tube on the planet. It should be up to the task with a good hi-temp anti-corrosive conductive paste like the SS-30.
The coil is another one made out of 32 AWG and a little more carefully and tightly wrapped. Again, it's 3½" around a more orderly little bundle of grapho-glas wicking. It reads an adjusted 3.5 ohms with the needles and 3 mm of legs inserted into each pole. When powered up it starts going red within a second. The coil is actually heated bright red in this picture but it doesn't show up that way. Must be the flash.
I'm thinking it may be a challenge to "solder" this stainless steel tubing to the battery connector without completely melting down the 4-hole system. Anybody have any thoughts on this? Eh, never mind. That ain't gonna happen.
I'm not worried about the ceramic pot. That doesn't come into play at all. The conductors will simply feed up through the holes in it just like the original wires.
The 4-hole thingy I'm talking about is the silicon-rubber looking area in the battery connector that surrounds the the positive power pole in the 801. Little jets in this connect to the vents underneath the collar. It lies beneath the points where the standard 24 gauge power wires are soldered to the battery connector. This silicon is also the thing that insulates the power pin from ground.
As I mentioned earlier, the SS-30 has a working temperature of 1800° F, it's ~30% copper and the MSDS doesn't show any particular toxicity at all. The only thing I can definitively say right now is... I don't know for sure.
I'm hoping a dip in zinc chloride flux with 96% tin and 4% silver will do the trick but I may have to tin the needles with something nastier. If I have to use a torch, the outlook is grim.
I'm not sure I understand what you're saying kinabaloo. Although I've never seen one, I'm assuming a breadboard is the white piece you use to power the coil in your direct_mesh video. You mean grind down a dual terminal piece of this and use it for a coil connector in an atomizer?
Yes. The thread I linked to used earing clips (butterfly clips). Maybe better as these are already small pieces. Maybe fold some small piece of metal around the end of the nichrome wire and then insert.
Another possible way: how about using small crimping pins?
Soldering the needles turned out to be dirt simple using a dip in phosphoric acid as a flux then doing a quick hit with silver solder.
The phosphoric acid is simply the Nu-Calgon liquid ice machine cleaner. A leftover from the ill-fated atomizer cleaning experiment of a few months ago.
I saw the earring clips. Innovative idea.
What are crimping pins? Sorry, I don't know all these electronic parts.