Sun, the metal foam covering the metal bridge in my atomizers is all secured to the metal foam that wraps the pot. It comes off but it don't do so good at going back on. What I was talking about in that thought is making it removable and replaceable. It's now an old and superseded thought. Regardless, without popping the guts out, doing anything with the coil is next to impossible unless you have the skills and equipment needed for micro-surgery.
Attn: atomizer rebuilders
- Thread starter crazyhorse
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
CrasyHorse---that is so true---I thought you where referring to just taking out the bridge---trying to but anything back in without the atomizer apart can not be done. It truly is "micro-surgery" I use a 10x jewerler's mag to work on them. Your idea sounds very interesting and I hope someone can follow though with it----------Sun
We are proally just pi$$ing in the wind here after all, unless we all wanted to take the micro-surgery course.
And then again, retailers aren't exactly chomping at the bit to develop a lifetime atomizer I'm sure.
I think I'll just suck it up and order another 10 or 15 new ones. Kinda like oil changes, they are expendable.
And then again, retailers aren't exactly chomping at the bit to develop a lifetime atomizer I'm sure.
I think I'll just suck it up and order another 10 or 15 new ones. Kinda like oil changes, they are expendable.
KV, as long as I can get atomizers for less than $6.00 a copy delivered, I'm happy. I'll be even happier if they last a few weeks each. I don't really want to get into the politics but the price and availability can quickly change and we are the only ones who will change the reliability and longevity.
I won't be caught all dressed up with no place to go if and when ejuice is classified as an illegal drug and the ecig is determined to be paraphernalia. What we have now is a tiny and insignificant "cottage industry" just beginning to show on the radar of giants with deep pockets who can and will squash it like a bug.
I've already laid away enough of our favorite juices to last us for years and I intend to be prepared in all other ways too. As in all areas of life, self-sufficiency rules and dependency drools. In vaping, the atomizer is the weak link. If they go up to $25 each and they're nothing but the same old junk, I won't be happy.
Rebuilding these things can't be all that difficult. With enough good minds sourcing the few things we need and others doing the math, we can soon have ourselves a quick and easy rebuild.
Basically, all we need is a way to get rid of the bridge, the best thing to use for pluggable sockets able to accept a long-tailed coil and replace the flimsy wire (think copper cap tube), standardized measurements and methods for winding a coil and the best way to unitize the atomizer parts after doing the mod. With this accomplished, when we blow a coil we pop the guts, plug in a freshly wicked and wound coil (think threading a needle), put the unit back in the shell and go on about our business.
I won't be caught all dressed up with no place to go if and when ejuice is classified as an illegal drug and the ecig is determined to be paraphernalia. What we have now is a tiny and insignificant "cottage industry" just beginning to show on the radar of giants with deep pockets who can and will squash it like a bug.
I've already laid away enough of our favorite juices to last us for years and I intend to be prepared in all other ways too. As in all areas of life, self-sufficiency rules and dependency drools. In vaping, the atomizer is the weak link. If they go up to $25 each and they're nothing but the same old junk, I won't be happy.
Rebuilding these things can't be all that difficult. With enough good minds sourcing the few things we need and others doing the math, we can soon have ourselves a quick and easy rebuild.
Basically, all we need is a way to get rid of the bridge, the best thing to use for pluggable sockets able to accept a long-tailed coil and replace the flimsy wire (think copper cap tube), standardized measurements and methods for winding a coil and the best way to unitize the atomizer parts after doing the mod. With this accomplished, when we blow a coil we pop the guts, plug in a freshly wicked and wound coil (think threading a needle), put the unit back in the shell and go on about our business.
CH, I agree with your assessment about the good minds and the need to come up with an alternative option.
The speed bump is, to me anyway, the cost associated with building these plug-in replacements.
This would take a lot of resources wouldn't it?
Don't get me wrong. I know it can be done once the right method is developed. I just wonder who's willing to make the investment of time and money.
Might just be best to buy a hundred of the things.
The speed bump is, to me anyway, the cost associated with building these plug-in replacements.
This would take a lot of resources wouldn't it?
Don't get me wrong. I know it can be done once the right method is developed. I just wonder who's willing to make the investment of time and money.
Might just be best to buy a hundred of the things.
High cost of materials? Far from it. Of course one can't buy one inch of nichrome or a pinch of fibreglass, but cost per unit would be a few cents at most.
It is tricky work though, even just a simple rebuild.
How much can it possibly cost KV?
Small quantities of nichrome wire cost around 20¢ a foot, delivered. We need how much, maybe an inch per unit? Then add an inch of cap tube and a grommet. How much can that be with proper sourcing? How much can ¼" of wicking material be? I'm thinking stove rope would work just fine. This would cost a few bucks for enough to do hundreds of thousand of mods. I probably have enough for a lifetime supply for the entire forum left over from re-doing my wood stove doors back in 1999.
After that, it would be soldering, no brazing required. Then we need a final finish of some type of epoxy to unitize it so it could be twisted out or punched out.
Each dead 801atomizer appears to have at least one donor part that would directly cross over to the cartridge modification with no further ado. We sacrifice one dead atomizer so another can live on. That's not a big deal.
What am I missing KV? Oh yeah, the big thing. Developing the right method. Somebody has to do the math.
Small quantities of nichrome wire cost around 20¢ a foot, delivered. We need how much, maybe an inch per unit? Then add an inch of cap tube and a grommet. How much can that be with proper sourcing? How much can ¼" of wicking material be? I'm thinking stove rope would work just fine. This would cost a few bucks for enough to do hundreds of thousand of mods. I probably have enough for a lifetime supply for the entire forum left over from re-doing my wood stove doors back in 1999.
After that, it would be soldering, no brazing required. Then we need a final finish of some type of epoxy to unitize it so it could be twisted out or punched out.
Each dead 801atomizer appears to have at least one donor part that would directly cross over to the cartridge modification with no further ado. We sacrifice one dead atomizer so another can live on. That's not a big deal.
What am I missing KV? Oh yeah, the big thing. Developing the right method. Somebody has to do the math.
I agree, material costs would be a drop in the bucket compared to the cost of actually building/assembling the things.
Think machinery and equipment costs and/or lots of cheap labor to do any sort of mass production, this after the technology is developed.
You're still going to have to use a coil of wire,which is the weak link now, heated with a 4 volt source and some sort of wicking material.
And can these things be mass produced and sold for less than 6 bucks?
I know I'm playing the Devil's advocate so flame away.
Think machinery and equipment costs and/or lots of cheap labor to do any sort of mass production, this after the technology is developed.
You're still going to have to use a coil of wire,which is the weak link now, heated with a 4 volt source and some sort of wicking material.
And can these things be mass produced and sold for less than 6 bucks?
I know I'm playing the Devil's advocate so flame away.
Oh jeez KV, we're discussing something for you and me and every other poor sot on this forum who wants an atomizer mod we can build on our kitchen table in an hour and quickly repair as needed. Who the hell cares if they can be mass produced?
Machinery needed? Maybe a flexi shaft tool or dremel to trim down the sockets and a soldering iron to mount them to the battery connector.
Getting a coil of wire isn't a stretch. One supplier sells 10' for $2.00 delivered. A monkey can wrap it around the proper form with the wick and trim it to length
Machinery needed? Maybe a flexi shaft tool or dremel to trim down the sockets and a soldering iron to mount them to the battery connector.
Getting a coil of wire isn't a stretch. One supplier sells 10' for $2.00 delivered. A monkey can wrap it around the proper form with the wick and trim it to length
O.K. CH, I'm on the same page you're on now.
Yeah I'd like to know how to do that, if possible.
You did notice I said if possible?
The coil part I could manage I think.
I'm too "quick" to solder a #48 wire though.
Maybe the wife could before she had her coffee.
I'm not contributing much here I'm afraid.
Yeah I'd like to know how to do that, if possible.
You did notice I said if possible?
The coil part I could manage I think.
I'm too "quick" to solder a #48 wire though.
Maybe the wife could before she had her coffee.
I'm not contributing much here I'm afraid.
You wouldn't have to solder a wire if this system could be made valid. You would solder cap tubes to the battery connector and plug the coil into the other ends.The cap tubes would replace the 32 AWG power leads we have now.
Edit: Cap tube = Capillary tube
Edit: Cap tube = Capillary tube
Last edited:
I had thought about the possibility of mechanical connectors, (stake-on lugs coil to lead) but they would have to be too small to be practical probably.
I have used .... splices on drier heating elements that burned open and it'll get you by a day or two but that creates a "hot spot" (high resistance) that doesn't work well on nichrome wire so doesn't last long.
I have used .... splices on drier heating elements that burned open and it'll get you by a day or two but that creates a "hot spot" (high resistance) that doesn't work well on nichrome wire so doesn't last long.
Dang, I'm glad you mentioned that. I had to patch up a busted 15kw furnace coil at one of our rental houses on Christmas weekend about 4-5 years ago. It worked okay so I never bothered changing it out. In fact, I forgot all about it until reading your post. I wonder if that's nichrome wire? IIRC I wrapped it in copper for a mechanical join and brazed that up with silver. I guess I should pull that puppy and see how it's doing.
Another one of the original batch of atomizers blew today. This one lasted for less than three days and vaporized an unbelievable total of 3 ml of liquid. It died the same sudden death as if it was turned off by a switch in between puffs. It tests positive for an open circuit so I'm sure I'll find another broken solder joint.
In the nichrome wire a little away from solder joint or at the join itself? Let us know.
Yet I have been running my test coil dry like a lightbulb.
Most of the very early deaths are surly due to imperfections in the wire that causes a hotspot.
I've identified a potential problem that may be contributing to these rapid failures. My battery mods use a ¼" phone jack with a sleeved bolt as a positive pin. There is no airflow though the connector as with the standard 801 battery. Lower intake air must be drawn through the "4-hole" intake system hidden under the collar. Although this doesn't harm draw or vapor production, this airflow restriction may be allowing too much temperature rise around the coil and murdering the joints.
The problem has gotten worse with the very high temperatures we've been having and it's worse with my vaping as opposed to that of my wife. I work outside in the heat while she does her vaping in the cool. I also just realized I built her copper pipe-based mod differently with a much looser center pin that's tensioned against the atomizer with pressure from the battery itself. So it makes sense. I'll have to refit vented center pins to my box mods.
Come to think of it, I rebuilt the center pins on my box mods earlier this week for the express purpose of tightening the pins which only served to completely restrict airflow out of the box. This probably created the three day wonder.
The problem has gotten worse with the very high temperatures we've been having and it's worse with my vaping as opposed to that of my wife. I work outside in the heat while she does her vaping in the cool. I also just realized I built her copper pipe-based mod differently with a much looser center pin that's tensioned against the atomizer with pressure from the battery itself. So it makes sense. I'll have to refit vented center pins to my box mods.
Come to think of it, I rebuilt the center pins on my box mods earlier this week for the express purpose of tightening the pins which only served to completely restrict airflow out of the box. This probably created the three day wonder.
CH, I've just about solved the airflow problem on my CuPipe mods.
The link below,about halfway down, using a ballpoint spring helps.
Then I ground a flat place on the 1/4" threaded outer part, from the outside all the way down to the shoulder.
Then I cut some notches in the locknut with a hacksaw (obviously can't go too deep); the flat side that the atomizer screws down on.
All this has significantly improved the draw, and air flow.
You might want to try these before major surgery.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...battery-sacrifice-adapter-801-penstyle-4.html
ETA: Forgot to mention, I seem to be getting better service using the Runyan 801 atomizers than the BE112's for some reason. Haven't had as many failures lately with them.
The link below,about halfway down, using a ballpoint spring helps.
Then I ground a flat place on the 1/4" threaded outer part, from the outside all the way down to the shoulder.
Then I cut some notches in the locknut with a hacksaw (obviously can't go too deep); the flat side that the atomizer screws down on.
All this has significantly improved the draw, and air flow.
You might want to try these before major surgery.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...battery-sacrifice-adapter-801-penstyle-4.html
ETA: Forgot to mention, I seem to be getting better service using the Runyan 801 atomizers than the BE112's for some reason. Haven't had as many failures lately with them.
Last edited:
The copper pipe mod really isn't creating a problem. The insulation used for sleeving that bolt is floppity enough to allow air to be drawn through the body. Between the non-airtight/watertight end caps and the switch hole, there are enough leaks to allow for flow.
Presently, I'm refitting my box mods with a pen spring.
All my atomizers have been genuine DSE 801 4-hole but I'm hoping the first batch were of lesser quality or out of a run of seconds. Haha, like there is such a thing in the scheme of chinese manufacturing. They were the glitzier metallic blue and all from the same supplier. This time I got flat black from RD
Presently, I'm refitting my box mods with a pen spring.
All my atomizers have been genuine DSE 801 4-hole but I'm hoping the first batch were of lesser quality or out of a run of seconds. Haha, like there is such a thing in the scheme of chinese manufacturing. They were the glitzier metallic blue and all from the same supplier. This time I got flat black from RD
Last edited:
No, I won't bother with inspecting and reporting on the three-day/three-ml wonder atomizer. It doesn't matter where it broke. All that matters is it did break. To bother with anything further is merely mental .........ion. We already know these atomizers are disposable junk and we already know the weak links.
Who cares if a 901 coil waving around in the open air being powered by a circuit board will burn like a light bulb for years? That's of no practical value unless we want to sit around the bench and suck up our vaporized juice through a straw.
What we need is a simple and realistic mod to enable a cheap and reasonably easy repair. We don't have to reinvent the wheel or worry about whether the mod is mass producible for a certain number of dollars. Everybody seems so concerned with the grandiose they cannot be bothered to spend a moment brainstorming a valid workaround that anyone with basic tools and skills, good light and magnification and the desire for Independence can accomplish on their own.
To quote Sun Vaporer earlier in this thread: "I am sticking this thread in the hope that we can all one day see a MOD atomizer or a rebuild." So how about we get on task?
- Status
