Yes, that I do. Wicking the MT is a beast.Paul, Todd,& Dominic remember how stoked we were when we got little bubbles from our MT's? This thing doesn't give bubbles it chugs like a water cooler! ROTFLMAO!![]()
Yes, that I do. Wicking the MT is a beast.Paul, Todd,& Dominic remember how stoked we were when we got little bubbles from our MT's? This thing doesn't give bubbles it chugs like a water cooler! ROTFLMAO!![]()
I do get an occasional bubble. I just pulled out the 2.5 deck and built the 2.0 deck with dual ss316 fused Claptons, 3mm, 7wraps at .19ohms and choked it with rayon and long tails to tuck under and onto the deck. Nary a dry hit at all. For me, it's working great at 70W. When I give it a nice, long hit and look at it, I get a bubble or two come up. This boreas is such a dream compared to the Mutank or MT. I just got the 2 post deck in for the MT, but believe it or not, I'm still on the same coil I put in there when it was new! I hate to tear out a coil unless it goes bad. My MT is on the sideline waiting rebuild. I almost dread doing it.Paul, Todd,& Dominic remember how stoked we were when we got little bubbles from our MT's? This thing doesn't give bubbles it chugs like a water cooler! ROTFLMAO!![]()
Yah I was just thinking about going home & messing with my stainless build on the other deck to see if I can get it to stay in TC. The whole time thinking about what I was going to be vaping in the Boreas while I did it! GOD I LOVE THIS THING!I do get an occasional bubble. I just pulled out the 2.5 deck and built the 2.0 deck with dual ss316 fused Claptons, 3mm, 7wraps at .19ohms and choked it with rayon and long tails to tuck under and onto the deck. Nary a dry hit at all. For me, it's working great at 70W. When I give it a nice, long hit and look at it, I get a bubble or two come up. This boreas is such a dream compared to the Mutank or MT. I just got the 2 post deck in for the MT, but believe it or not, I'm still on the same coil I put in there when it was new! I hate to tear out a coil unless it goes bad. My MT is on the sideline waiting rebuild. I almost dread doing it.

Well i used in on a couple stainless .45 frames a few years ago. worked fine for that. Ill have to dig them out, then stop vaping on my Boreas long enough to make a jig to hold it steady that i can clock to make the lines even... Im thinking something like 5 lines on the cardinals. Dont need much, just need something.I dunno about checkering files, albeit that would make a beautifully fine knurl. You think they're hard enough for 304 or 316, whatever it's made from?
If you send it to me, what makes you think you'd get it back?
Good point. A lot of those files are good steel. But they're intended for wood. I did some 40 LPI borderless skip-line on a stock I built for a 700 in .280Rem for a presentation piece once. Beautiful stock, laminated birdseye maple with rosewood insets for the checkering. But I mostly built hunting guns, and for those I like 16LPI best. Better grip.Well i used in on a couple stainless .45 frames a few years ago. worked fine for that. Ill have to dig them out, then stop vaping on my Boreas long enough to make a jig to hold it steady that i can clock to make the lines even... Im thinking something like 5 lines on the cardinals. Dont need much, just need something.
I tried the "dont tighten the topcap securly"... But my OCD kicked my ... and next thing you know it was tightened back down and I had a hell of a time opening it again. i despise vape bands, but im wondering if I can find a small enough one that dosent look horrible to put on the top of the glass and the little metal strip from the chimney... That should give enough grip to be able to get the top cap off. biggest issue really is there there isnt much metal to grab under the topcap. I can grab the glass just fine but then the chimney spins inside it and loosens up. if that metal piece were a touch bigger it would be easier to grab an hold while taking off the topcap.
Nah, I wouldn't do thatMercy...you wouldn't take a guys Boreas would ya???
Actually mine are not intended for wood. Mine are intended to put checkering on the frame handles, back straps, trigger guards...Good point. A lot of those files are good steel. But they're intended for wood. I did some 40 LPI borderless skip-line on a stock I built for a 700 in .280Rem for a presentation piece once. Beautiful stock, laminated birdseye maple with rosewood insets for the checkering. But I mostly built hunting guns, and for those I like 16LPI best. Better grip.
Well i used in on a couple stainless .45 frames a few years ago. worked fine for that. Ill have to dig them out, then stop vaping on my Boreas long enough to make a jig to hold it steady that i can clock to make the lines even... Im thinking something like 5 lines on the cardinals. Dont need much, just need something.
I tried the "dont tighten the topcap securly"... But my OCD kicked my ... and next thing you know it was tightened back down and I had a hell of a time opening it again. i despise vape bands, but im wondering if I can find a small enough one that dosent look horrible to put on the top of the glass and the little metal strip from the chimney... That should give enough grip to be able to get the top cap off. biggest issue really is there there isnt much metal to grab under the topcap. I can grab the glass just fine but then the chimney spins inside it and loosens up. if that metal piece were a touch bigger it would be easier to grab an hold while taking off the topcap.