Batteries, mods and ohms
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The cliff notes on what I've gathered thus far from here.
-not sure if certain mods are better or more dangerous than others
-use sony vtc4 and vtc5, as well as the bossy purple efest.(others may work but I see those mentioned the most)
- if building get a ohm reader and a way to check your battery voltage
-not sure if certain mods are better or more dangerous than others
-use sony vtc4 and vtc5, as well as the bossy purple efest.(others may work but I see those mentioned the most)
- if building get a ohm reader and a way to check your battery voltage
It's true that if you don't know exactly what you are doing, use the wrong batteries in the mod, and don't follow mod & battery safety practices it could be dangerous. A lot of stored energy is packed inside the high drain batteries that we use, and if they go into failure (thermal runaway), it could become a dangerous situation. I suggest that you read the following links to gain more information.
Mechanical Mod Proper Useage Guide
Battery Basics for Mods
Information Resources for Your First RBA
Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries
Ohm's Law for Dummies
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Ohms Law explained by Baditude -- both analytically and visually.
Baditude has some EXCELLENT blog posts on batteries as well:
1. Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
2. Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries - Part I
3. Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries - Part II
All of his blog posts are worth a read (and a bookmark)! I subscribe as well. When he talks/writes, I don't want to miss what he has to say!
Baditude has some EXCELLENT blog posts on batteries as well:
1. Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
2. Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries - Part I
3. Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries - Part II
All of his blog posts are worth a read (and a bookmark)! I subscribe as well. When he talks/writes, I don't want to miss what he has to say!
You have already gotten some terrific answers, but I just wanted to welcome you to ecf. You can plainly see why ecf is such a wonderful place to be.......the people. Good luck to you and happy vaping.
Thank you everyone for your input and especially to you baditude for the great links and awesome dedication to vaping
I'm not sure how linking works yet, but the ohm's law calculator on ecigstop site is pretty useful for calculating your wattage from your battery volts and coil resistance. (just take the spaces out)
http :// theecigstop . com /ecal .html
http :// theecigstop . com /ecal .html
This really is a great site for information, advice and friendly people. So I need a multimeter does anyone have any recommendations
even the most basic meters will show both ohms and volts. If you want more - you may want one that can show RMS for AC(or pulsed DC for the variable voltage types), measuring amperage is another advance feature you wan't find on the basic meters. I'd expect any meter set up especially with 501/808 vaper-specific fixtures would show all of these.
For ecigs purposes all you need is a meter that will read DC voltage and resistance. If you have a Harbor Freight store go there and buy one of the under $5 meters on sale. Northern Tools sells several good inexpensive ones, as well as Lowes and Home Depot. You might even find one at Walmart.
This one is sold everywhere and it works just fine for vaping needs. It's $3.99 at HF and under $10 everywhere it's sold. Just be sure when measuring resistance to hold the leads together on the ohms setting and subtract the lead resistance you will see from the reading you get on your atomizer.
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html
One of these is what most people get, an ohm reader box. It can also serve as a coil/wick station while you install & wick your coils.
You'll also need some way to check your battery voltage to avoid over-discharging your batteries during use. You don't want your batteries to drain past 3.4 volts. This attaches to your 510-connector of you mech mod. 510 inline voltage meter.
You'll also need some way to check your battery voltage to avoid over-discharging your batteries during use. You don't want your batteries to drain past 3.4 volts. This attaches to your 510-connector of you mech mod. 510 inline voltage meter.
Every device I've seen - that uses batteries (I have one that plugs into USB and has no battery of its own) - uses lithium Ion Batteries.
Look up these batteries and you'll see that they are better than older batteries - delivering almost as many watts when discharged at high amperage over say 1/2 hour as they deliver with a low amperage over days. The problem is that devices with smaller batteries are asking for 5-10 second bursts of currents that would drain the battery in 1/10 of an hour.
Hrm not as clear as I hoped.
If you have a battery rated for 300mAH - it will happliy deliver 100Ma for 3 hours, It will happily deliver 300Ma for 1 hour, It will happily deliver 600Ma for 1/2 hour - but not all of them are happy to deliver the 2000 - 4000 Ma that a low-resistance coil or a dual-coil setup will require - even if its for just 10 seconds at a time. They may manage it, but die young - perhaps living for 50 recharge cycles instead of the 200 you'd expect under less stressful usage.
The ones made to hold as many Ah as possible - are called high-energy or high-capacity, The ones that hold a bit less Ah, but can deliver higher amperages without suffering - are called high-power or high discharge.
It matters most with the smallest batteries - a 300Mah battery asked to deliver 3000Ma (10X ... 10C) is stressed or needs to use a high-discharge variety. While a 1300Mah battery delivering 3000Ma (2.3C) is not stressing even if its a high energy variety instead of high-discharge.
Look up these batteries and you'll see that they are better than older batteries - delivering almost as many watts when discharged at high amperage over say 1/2 hour as they deliver with a low amperage over days. The problem is that devices with smaller batteries are asking for 5-10 second bursts of currents that would drain the battery in 1/10 of an hour.
Hrm not as clear as I hoped.
If you have a battery rated for 300mAH - it will happliy deliver 100Ma for 3 hours, It will happily deliver 300Ma for 1 hour, It will happily deliver 600Ma for 1/2 hour - but not all of them are happy to deliver the 2000 - 4000 Ma that a low-resistance coil or a dual-coil setup will require - even if its for just 10 seconds at a time. They may manage it, but die young - perhaps living for 50 recharge cycles instead of the 200 you'd expect under less stressful usage.
The ones made to hold as many Ah as possible - are called high-energy or high-capacity, The ones that hold a bit less Ah, but can deliver higher amperages without suffering - are called high-power or high discharge.
It matters most with the smallest batteries - a 300Mah battery asked to deliver 3000Ma (10X ... 10C) is stressed or needs to use a high-discharge variety. While a 1300Mah battery delivering 3000Ma (2.3C) is not stressing even if its a high energy variety instead of high-discharge.
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That's the one thing I need to get.. an OHM reader for ego/510. I can check 'em with my multimeter, but it's just easier if I had one in my hand to use.
I've always had multiple cheap multimeters around the house for convenience. I have a Simpson digital upstairs but tend to grab whichever $3.99 VOM is in reach when I need it. I really hate that I had to turn in my Fluke 87 at retirement. My manager told me that he didn't care what was in the toolcase when I turned it in, there just had to be a VOM. I was going to sub the Simpson but couldn't find it. I later found it in a drawer upstairs in the man cave.
I need to get one of the atomizer testers just for convenience.
I need to get one of the atomizer testers just for convenience.
Most often they are called high drain batteries. Agree with everything else you said.
The higher mah batteries are more likely to be protected ICR batteries. These tend to only have an amp rating of 2.5 amps continuous discharge, and are considered low-drain. Best suited for just flashlight applications.
IMR or high drain batteries will have 6 - 30 amps continuous discharge rate, depending upon the size & chemistry (IMR or IMR/hybrid) of the battery. These are also a safe-chemistry battery, while ICR batteries are not.
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