battery charging question

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elfstone

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The run "down completely" to condition does not apply to lithium batteries as they have no "memory". In fact, you have to always avoid a "deep discharge" that will damage the innards of the battery. IF you are talking about sealed e-cigarettes, these have some form of electronics that theoretically do not allow too deep a discharge, so they start blinking at a given low voltage. Even then, you may want to prevent relying on that circuit and charge them before they start blinking (you'll get a feel for it soon enough). That is true for some APVs with electronics as well.

If you are using swappable batteries in an APV without any electronics, then you have to take care you never run them down completely. It is a good safety practice to meter the batteries before putting them on charger and whenever putting them back in your mod. I wouldn't use a battery anymore if it's discharged below, say, 3.3 V. Opinions may vary, but certainly not bleow 3.0 V. It is also a good safety practice to let a battery sit for a while off charger before putting it in to use it.

More info here: How to Prolong Lithium-based Batteries - Battery University
 

lettucehead

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My Ego Twist doesn't hold a charge all that well.
1000 mAh and will only last most of 1 day even with only moderate vaping.
Also feels like it decreases in voltage through the day.

I was told by the vendor I got it from that this was because I didn't let it run out completely the first few times I recharged it and it had developed 'memory' from early recharges.
Is this true?
Also, I am now letting it run down completely prior to recharging - will that increase the battery life to what it should be, and will that hurt the battery at all?

Thanks!
 

DC2

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How to Prolong Lithium-based Batteries - Battery University
The smaller the depth of discharge, the longer the battery will last. If at all possible, avoid frequent full discharges and charge more often between uses. If full discharges cannot be avoided, try utilizing a larger battery. Partial discharge on Li-ion is fine; there is no memory and the battery does not need periodic full discharge cycles other than to calibrate the fuel gauge on a smart battery.
 

Rocketman

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I was told by the vendor I got it from that this was because I didn't let it run out completely the first few times I recharged it and it had developed 'memory' from early recharges.

Tell your vendor Rocket says he is full of it.

I suggest you spare up critical parts like batteries and chargers. Don't let one failure cause you stress. Failures do happen.
Maybe go with the 900mah twist which seems to have a little better reliability.
Be careful with very low resistance cartos like 1.5 and 1.6 ohms. Some people use them but that's running on the ragged edge.
 

DaveP

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The common measure for battery life is an hour of vaping per 100mah battery capacity. 900mah would give the average person most of the day before charging. LR coils in your atomizer or cartomizer will drain a battery more quickly.

The general rule of thumb is that the optimal recharge point is when the battery gets down to 3.5v or 3.6v. Most PV's cut off the vape and blink around 3.2v or so. Charging before then is a good idea. I swap batteries if I'm going out or if I will be away from the charger. When I get back, I put the other on to charge. My PV has a built-in battery voltage meter and I use it a couple of times a day to check the battery level under load.
 

WillyB

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My Ego Twist doesn't hold a charge all that well.
1000 mAh and will only last most of 1 day even with only moderate vaping.
Also feels like it decreases in voltage through the day.

Thanks!
That is really quite vague, "most of 1 day". How much liquid is that?

If I was sitting at home using a straight up 2400-2600mAh 18650 I'll go through at least 2 batteries in a 'day'.

The other thing to note is you can't compare a standard eGo's runtime, to these Twists. By that I mean a standard eGo will last longer than the same mAh Twist.

The Twist is boosting and regulating it's native 3.7V cell to a higher voltage. At 4.5V with a 2.2Ω atty/carto (BTW most of my Boge LR cartos seem to be about 2.2Ω) Ohm's Law tells us it's pulling 2A for ~9W. But to get 9W from 3.7V in, it needs to provide about 2.4A. This may not be exactly accurate, but the principle is. To maintain a voltage higher than it's native/nominal 3.7V requires an additional amp hit, and there is also some lost to the efficiency hit of the booster. It's like driving your car uphill, you'll run through your gas quicker.


The general rule of thumb is that the optimal recharge point is when the battery gets down to 3.5v or 3.6v. Most PV's cut off the vape and blink around 3.2v
If you were to actually load test, at 3.2V (vaping/loaded) if you check the cell unloaded it will be at about ~3.5V.

The common measure for battery life is an hour of vaping per 100mah battery capacity.
I also don't buy into that. With mods, which mAh do we use? The claimed, or the actual vaping mAh?

When I was still using a single 14500 with my Joye 510s, they were good for about 2ml (of decent vaping) and maybe ~4 hours if I was busy at work, less if I was home watching a movie. In the old days when most atties were 3+Ω (901s/801s/standard Boge Cartos) vapetimes were longer, but with many hovering in the 2Ω range now, 100mAh/hr seems awful light.
 
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DC2

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Also feels like it decreases in voltage through the day.
I saw a graph of the Ego Twist voltage on two different websites and it does decrease over time.

Unfortunately, I can not find those graphs anymore, and I just spent 30 minutes looking for them.
So take it with a grain of salt for now.
 
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