Battery/Charging
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Some computer usb ports do not have a sufficient output to charge batteries without over taxing the internal thingamajigs.
I can only guess that the red light when plugged into your comp vs the green light when plugged into a wall charger suggests your computers usb output isn't capable.
Best to use a wall wort to charge with.
I can only guess that the red light when plugged into your comp vs the green light when plugged into a wall charger suggests your computers usb output isn't capable.
Best to use a wall wort to charge with.
Think of it this way....wall wart for under ten bucks versus a computer for a few hundred. Which do you choose?
Of course, if it's the computer on your desk at work that may not be such an obvious choice, LOL.
Just a thought...if your PC can't handle supplying 4.2 volts and 420 mA out of it's USB port then you have a lot more to worry about.
Been charging my ego batts off a USb port for as long as I've been vaping. The Intellicharger on my desk handles the 18650s but the PC does any and all Ego style batts without a whimper.
Been charging my ego batts off a USb port for as long as I've been vaping. The Intellicharger on my desk handles the 18650s but the PC does any and all Ego style batts without a whimper.
I've charged, by now, thousands of USB batteries using wall warts and have never had a problem. The same is true of people that use their computer USB port, thousands of charges and everything is fine. The problem is that Mr. Murphy is always part of the equation. If and when something does go wrong I don't want to have to buy a new computer. The going wrong part, by itself, could be expensive enough. There are more than enough stories of battery failures taking USB ports and computers along with them for my tastes.
Another note is that many, certainly not all, sealed battery systems seem to be very optimistic with their ratings. I've never seen any real testing done on them using a computer controlled test program, but my own experience with them and the incidental stories here on ECF seem to indicate that those 1300, 1100, 800, 600 milliamp hour batteries are just a "tad" below their advertised capacities.
If the charger is showing green all the time, I wouldn't charge it on your PC at all, no matter how you feel about gambling on it. Since the green LED indicates a nominal 4.2 volt battery voltage you are either overloading the battery/charger combination or overloading the USB port. Neither one is a desirable thing to do.
Another note is that many, certainly not all, sealed battery systems seem to be very optimistic with their ratings. I've never seen any real testing done on them using a computer controlled test program, but my own experience with them and the incidental stories here on ECF seem to indicate that those 1300, 1100, 800, 600 milliamp hour batteries are just a "tad" below their advertised capacities.
If the charger is showing green all the time, I wouldn't charge it on your PC at all, no matter how you feel about gambling on it. Since the green LED indicates a nominal 4.2 volt battery voltage you are either overloading the battery/charger combination or overloading the USB port. Neither one is a desirable thing to do.
But, How should i know when i Bettery is done charged when the Light Always is green?
The light on the charger should be red while charging, then change to intermittent red / green flashing, then solid green when charging is complete.
If the light on the charger stays red when a battery is connected using the usb port, never flashes red/green or turns solid green either the port isn't supplying sufficient power to charge or your charger isn't working correctly.
If the light on the charger stays green when a battery is connected while using the wall charger the battery is either fully charged or your charger isn't functioning correctly.
The light on the battery's fire button should flash multiple times when connecting to the charger as a sign proper connection has been established.
Be sure you don't over tighten the battery to charger connection.
That would suggest there is a problem with the charger. A basic rule of vaping is to have backups for backups of your backups. I'd suggest going back to the store where you bought it, if you bought it locally, and check it with them. If you bought is online, the best thing to do is get another charger. In any event more than one of each is always the best idea, just in case one fails.
Let's revisit the original post ok?
"I just got my E-Cigg" -- New Batts typically require charging... which would mean your PC connection showing red light would agree with this...after four hours max it should go green if the battery and charger are functioning properly.
"when i charge it in my phone charger in the Wall " -- Phone charger? Perhaps it is not compatible with your charger.
Usually, a USB style wall charger will work but if it can't supply enough current, milliamps or ma, it won't work or may work very slowly. Again, either get a second charger or got back to where you bought it from for additional advice.
The wall charger shouldn't supply too much or too little current. Too much I'd wager is the more dangerous option. Regarding computer usb ports, I think the problem is that they don't provided very stable current. It's kinda all over the place.
Do all egos turn green when fully charged? My MVP's green light is on while charging and goes out when fully charged.
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