battery for a mechanical mod ?
- Thread starter Terry Koontz
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Don't take this wrong way but you should learn about Ohm's law, mechanical mod safety and battery safety before you use a mechanical mod. Mechanical mods have ZERO protection so if you do one thing wrong the battery could vent (or explode in some cases).
Well there's not a whole lot to understand. The higher the mah the longer the run time. For that coil I would recommend the LG HG2 or the Samsung 30Q. Anything below one ohm I would use the Sony VTC5A or LG HB6. The most important part of mechanicals is checking the resistance of the atomiser to make sure the resistance is what it should be.
so you control the amount of vape by changing the coil resistance.
lower ohms means more vape ?
lower ohms means more vape ?
Hi @Terry Koontz
In general, the very highest mAh batteries are not the most powerful - they do not have the high amp capability some vapers need.
For example, the famous Panasonic 3,400 (claimed to be 6.8 amp) was indeed a long lasting battery but considered not really suitable for vaping. I used them, as did many others though without incident a few years ago and could still use one now for gentle vaping.
These days, there are a lot of batteries in the 2,000/2,500/3,000 range which are all good for medium power vaping. Doubled up, even better! Hard to go wrong with a 20 amp battery with either 2,500 or 3,000.
So, when you see 1,500 mAh / 30a - it's not really for 'us' that use regular power.
Samsung 30Q and LG HG2 are both good compromise batteries.
Lower ohms means more vape, yes. Really low ohms means you must choose a 20a battery at least.
If you are going to get 20a, then may as well shoot for 3,000mAh.
There is a Panasonic/Sanyo with only 10a but 3,300 - but I've never seen it for real.
In general, the very highest mAh batteries are not the most powerful - they do not have the high amp capability some vapers need.
For example, the famous Panasonic 3,400 (claimed to be 6.8 amp) was indeed a long lasting battery but considered not really suitable for vaping. I used them, as did many others though without incident a few years ago and could still use one now for gentle vaping.
These days, there are a lot of batteries in the 2,000/2,500/3,000 range which are all good for medium power vaping. Doubled up, even better! Hard to go wrong with a 20 amp battery with either 2,500 or 3,000.
So, when you see 1,500 mAh / 30a - it's not really for 'us' that use regular power.
Samsung 30Q and LG HG2 are both good compromise batteries.
Lower ohms means more vape, yes. Really low ohms means you must choose a 20a battery at least.
If you are going to get 20a, then may as well shoot for 3,000mAh.
There is a Panasonic/Sanyo with only 10a but 3,300 - but I've never seen it for real.
This is a fantastic introduction to mechanical mods.
They CAN be dangerous if you dont understand how to use them safely.
Take the time and educate yourself before you loose teeth.
Mechanical mods are for experienced users.
(8) A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod | E-Cigarette Forum
They CAN be dangerous if you dont understand how to use them safely.
Take the time and educate yourself before you loose teeth.
Mechanical mods are for experienced users.
(8) A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod | E-Cigarette Forum
Also remember, with current battery technology and battery chemistries in 18650, the manufacturers have to decide between two factors
Higher Energy Density (Mah) sacrificing energy through put and push (amps or current) - thus high mah rating but low C rating (as exampled above the Panasonic NCR18650B 6.8amp CDR but 3400mah)
Higher Energy Current sacrificing energy density (as example the LG HB6 1500mah but a 30amp CDR)
or they can balance it out to a happy medium ground like with the Samsung 30Q 3000mah but 20amp CDR
they just can't have both as there is not enough room to cram enough electrolyte in with the cathode and anode terminal materials in an 18650 package, even a 20700/21700 or 26650 size, just to confined a space.
Being @ 1.5ohms
4.2v/1.5=2.8amps
4.2v/1.0ohms=4.2amps
As suggested above an LG HG2, Samsung 30Q or even a Sony VTC6 would suit your needs for better run time as you do not need the extra CDR of a VTC5A or HB6, with still enough CDR padding to keep your safety margin ample and suitable.
Higher Energy Density (Mah) sacrificing energy through put and push (amps or current) - thus high mah rating but low C rating (as exampled above the Panasonic NCR18650B 6.8amp CDR but 3400mah)
Higher Energy Current sacrificing energy density (as example the LG HB6 1500mah but a 30amp CDR)
or they can balance it out to a happy medium ground like with the Samsung 30Q 3000mah but 20amp CDR
they just can't have both as there is not enough room to cram enough electrolyte in with the cathode and anode terminal materials in an 18650 package, even a 20700/21700 or 26650 size, just to confined a space.
Being @ 1.5ohms
4.2v/1.5=2.8amps
4.2v/1.0ohms=4.2amps
As suggested above an LG HG2, Samsung 30Q or even a Sony VTC6 would suit your needs for better run time as you do not need the extra CDR of a VTC5A or HB6, with still enough CDR padding to keep your safety margin ample and suitable.
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