Battery getting hot in my mechanical

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Hi everyone,

I don't usually use forums but I've been searching all over and can't find an answer to my problem.

I have a KTS mechanical mod with an RSST rba. I'm currently running about 1.0 ohms. I have an efest 3.7 volt 2000mah battery inside with a safety fuse.

My problem is that lately I've noticed the battery getting hot. It starts at the button and moves all the way around. Sometimes the unit won't even fire. I don't have this problem when I remove the fuse. I tried a different fuse and ended up with the same issue. Does anyone have any insight for me on what the issue could be?


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Ryedan

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I assume you have KTS GG clone. The switch parts sometimes get dirty increasing resistance and it heats up. What you want to do is clean all the contact surfaces. I swab with alcohol monthly and if there are any spots that need a bit more cleaning I use a bit of plastic scrub brush on it. Anything that's lightly abrasive will work. I don't use sandpaper because it's a bit too abrasive and it's hard to avoid changing the surface shapes.

Clean it all up and try it again.
 

Vwls

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Sounds like you have already checked the resistance of your coil so you have a decent multimeter...?

You need to check three things, the mod, the atty and the battery.

1) Some new mods can arrive from the factory with machine oil and other contaminants. They generally need to be cleaned before use. Clean the mod paying close attention to all contacts. Check performance with a multimeter under load to see if it is firing correctly.

2) Clean and check your atty in the same way. Try a different topper and see if the problem persists.

3) Hopefully that's not your only battery. Try a different battery and see if the problem persists. I recommend AW IMR batteries, not Efests, but you may be able to determine if it's a battery issue by completing the previously mentioned set of tests. Let us know your results -just like when you get a fever, hot batteries are a sign all is not well and it's never a good idea to let it go without running some tests.
 

erotikpanda

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I used a KTS+ with efest 18500 protected button top, no fuse or anything, although I was using just a pro tank 2 on it.

Had an issue with battery getting warm once, not sure what it was though, generally the advise is to stop using that battery and to check your mod for shorts (I used multimeter for that) otherwise, and I'm not sure if you have done it already, but it's a good idea to sand down the firing pin, the bottom post (where the firing pin hits) and the top connector, all those are brass, underneath the chrome. This helps conductivity and removes the hot button issue. Does yours get hot? Maybe it's the heat from the button heating up that heats the battery.

Do search ECF more, there are a few threads with regards to KTS

*edit*

Sorry, didn't read the part about it not firing with a fuse installed. It seems like you've blown the fuse so I honestly wouldn't suggest using the mod without it until you are sure there are no shorts. As far as the battery goes, do get an AW IMR and dispose off the efest, better safe than sorry. I'm using AW 18650 IMR at 1600mah right now, and I get better life out of it using kayfun at 1.3 ohm than I did with with efest using 1,8 coils
 
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Ryedan

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Yes sorry it's a GG Clone. This particular one is only about a week old though. Is it really possible it's that dirty already?

I was using a K101 before but didn't like the bottom button.

People have had this happen with new KTS's. I believe it's generally the switch that causes it but it is interesting that it doesn't happen with a fuse in it. The difference is that you don't screw the threads in as far, but that's all I can think of. For sure check out everything like Vwls said in her post.
 
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Ryedan

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The resistance on it is fine. I'm going to have to take it apart apparently and check it all.

The efest is an IMR 18650. Is efest just a bad type of battery. I've always used them with no problems in the past.

Thanks for the help!

IMO the battery should not be causing this, but it's not impossible. As batteries get old from either lots of charge/discharge cycles or from being overstressed a lot (very high amp draw, discharged below ~ 3.3V a lot) or from being over charged (charger charging over 4.2V) they lose physical properties. Check your battery voltage off the charger to make sure that's OK. Maximum amp draw goes down and length of use per charge reduces. It's usually the length of use per charge that people notice first. With a 1 ohm setup you're drawing about 4.1A at 4.1V which is not pushing the battery too hard.
 

erotikpanda

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Today I played with it to recreate the problem and the battery itself is not getting hot. It's the button that is. Doesn't explain why it's not firing but I'm starting to think its isn't an issue with the battery.

The button only seems to get hot WITH the fuse. Not without.


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if it's the button that is getting hot then do what I wrote previously, I had the same issue (I don't have a fuse, it was doing it with just a battery,e very now and again) it would get really hot and worrisome. After reading a few posts on the issue, I did what was the common fix, sanding down the end off the button's firing pin to reveal copper and sanded down the bottom post, where the pin hits. Instantly it removed the issue of the hot button.
 
if it's the button that is getting hot then do what I wrote previously, I had the same issue (I don't have a fuse, it was doing it with just a battery,e very now and again) it would get really hot and worrisome. After reading a few posts on the issue, I did what was the common fix, sanding down the end off the button's firing pin to reveal copper and sanded down the bottom post, where the pin hits. Instantly it removed the issue of the hot button.

Will that also fix the issue with it not firing?


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