battery life

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take5

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Nov 17, 2014
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Greetings from vancouver. I purchased a Kangertech EVOD USB 1000 MAH battery on September 14th of this year. I am starting to think that perhaps the battery is not really getting as much charge as my productions are coming out weaksauce, even after the battery has been fully charged. My question is what is the lifespan of these batteries (not how long the charge lasts, but the life of the battery)? And for the record, I have changed the coils repeatedly and got no better production.

Cheers

Mike
 
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Katya

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Hi Katya, I should have been more specific (will edit thread after repling to you).. I meant to say how long is the OVERALL life of the battery, not teh life of the charge.

Oh, I see. Usually, most lithium batteries are supposed to last approximately 300 full charging cycles--but you can stretch it a bit if you don't let your batteries discharge completely between charges and top them off instead before they run out of juice. Or so they say. :D
 

edyle

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Greetings from vancouver. I purchased a Kangertech EVOD USB 1000 MAH battery on September 14th of this year. I am starting to think that perhaps the battery is not really getting as much charge as my productions are coming out weaksauce, even after the battery has been fully charged. My question is what is the lifespan of these batteries (not how long the charge lasts, but the life of the battery)? And for the record, I have changed the coils repeatedly and got no better production.

Cheers

Mike

My first set of batteries started giving problems after about 3 months.
I bought my first starter kit in July 2013, stopped smoking in August, picked up about 4 more ego batts over the next couple months, but by end of december I bought an 18650 replaceable battery mod because the eGo batteries were giving problems.
 

Maiar

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My Spinner II is 1600mah and it lasts all day with moderate vaping. I mostly use single coil units and switch between 2-4 tanks throughout the day depending on what flavor i want at that moment. It won't make it all day if I'm vaping more than usual (like i do on the computer here lol) or if I'm using one of my dual coil units. Oh, I rarely go above 4V on it. I find everything tastes like burnt computer parts if I go any higher.
 

take5

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Nov 17, 2014
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thank you all for the replies. I am hoping to get some specific information about this particular model, and if there is any recall on this model for problems. Katya, thank you for the info about 300 charges. I certainly havent come even close to that many charges in the 2 months that has elapsed since I bought it. I will proabably take it back to where I bought it and start asking them questions about it. Is there any other reason why my e-cig might be making weak productions? remember, i have put brand new coils in.
 

Katya

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thank you all for the replies. I am hoping to get some specific information about this particular model, and if there is any recall on this model for problems. Katya, thank you for the info about 300 charges. I certainly havent come even close to that many charges in the 2 months that has elapsed since I bought it. I will proabably take it back to where I bought it and start asking them questions about it. Is there any other reason why my e-cig might be making weak productions? remember, i have put brand new coils in.

If it's not fully charged? Can you check the voltage of your battery when it comes off the charger?

What's the resistance of your coils? Can you check? Do you have a multimeter?

Is it a real Kanger? There are plenty of fakes out there that use inferior batteries.
 
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Rickajho

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It really depends on the quality of what you are buying and what you do to them.

I had Joyetech eGo batteries when I started, 4 in rotation, and those batteries still work fine after nine months of non-stop vaping. But it seems that the majority of short lived battery reports come from people chasing after "Where can I get the cheapest possible price on a..." stuff.

You also have to keep in mind that batteries in this class aren't made for low resistance devices. The lower coil resistance you run on them the more damage you do to their life span. They aren't high drain batteries in those shiny metal tubes and even 1.8 ohm Kanger coils will have an impact on life span. Use 2.0 ohm devices or higher if you want to prolong their life span.
 
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dice57

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My ego's only lasted two months, then bought my first regulated mod, and gave all the ego's & cig-a-likes awayi. :D

usually ego style batts are rated at around 200-300 recharges, though a lot depends how much stress the batt has experienced, over discharging, pushing the amp limit, that sort of thing. Two years of a batt that's been not stressed or misused, can be seen. Most replace before really needed.

Over draining a batt can cause it to lose it's capability to hold or sustain a charge. Plus cleaning contact points will insure better purrformance.

Being that it's relatively new, feel likely its more of a general total gear maintenance issue. Maintaining ones full gear properly is the best assurance of maintaining a solid consistent vape. One must look at the atty, coils and wick, plus proper battery care and service. Keeping contact points clean, not over draining batts, inspecting everything along the vape path, or something like that.

One can get a bad batt, sometimes a counterfeit, or just hit a bad luck of the vape, but properly maintained, most ego batts, or batts of any format, should give one at least a year of service, at the minimum.

Vape is all about balance, one must look at everything that makes it possible to make vape happen. Many issues can cause the same symptoms. The more one understands what makes vape possible, every step of the way, from juice ratios, wicking potential, ohm's law, fluid dynamics, pressure equalization, amp demand, response time, frak, am now looking at harmonic wave balancing to optimize vape potential of multiple coil configurations. :lol: Frak, hang on, Sampson's chit really stinks.:vapor::vapor::vapor:

Damn, what the frak did I feed that boy:D

anywho, where was I?:confused:??? frak, lost me marbles, or something like that.


Vape long and Prosper.!!!!
 

edyle

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thank you all for the replies. I am hoping to get some specific information about this particular model, and if there is any recall on this model for problems. Katya, thank you for the info about 300 charges. I certainly havent come even close to that many charges in the 2 months that has elapsed since I bought it. I will proabably take it back to where I bought it and start asking them questions about it. Is there any other reason why my e-cig might be making weak productions? remember, i have put brand new coils in.

liquid tends to get down in the 510 threadwell, and down in the middle is the centerpin, which is insulated around by some insulating material, which with persistent wetness from the liquid, tends to degrade over time.
With degradation, two things can happen:
1: electrical problems, where the center pin tends to short out on the sides
2: leakage/seepage of liquid past the insulator, and down to the electronics and the battery.

Once liquid gets down inside the electronics, anything can happen from there; including real smoke.

That's one of the key reasons I stopped using ego type batteries and switched to replaceable battery mods.
If I've got a leak with liquid getting down in my mod, I'm probably going to notice liquid on my battery when I put it to charge, but with an ego type battery, you never take out the battery inside the tube; the battery could be totally submerged in eliquid and you might never know.
 
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take5

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Nov 17, 2014
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If it's not fully charged? Can you check the voltage of your battery when it comes off the charger?

What's the resistance of your coils? Can you check? Do you have a multimeter?

Is it a real Kanger? There are plenty of fakes out there that use inferior batteries.

HI Katya, thanks for the reply. No I do not have a multi-meter handy. I can borrow one tomorrow though. What output should I be hoping to get? (also where do I attach the nodes)?

As for the authenticity of the product, I have no way of surmizing that with my limited knowledge of the product. Someone else mentioned "batteries in this class aren't made for low resistance devices. The lower coil resistance you run on them the more damage you do to their life span. They aren't high drain batteries in those shiny metal tubes and even 1.8 ohm Kanger coils will have an impact on life span. Use 2.0 ohm devices or higher if you want to prolong their life span" I am using 1.5 ohm coils, not sure if that information helps anyone, however it should be noted again that I have only owned this kit for 2 months,

I do not know about this device that I have if it is a "low resistance device" . As a relatively new user, I also do not know what an EGO is, or a regulated mod for that matter. In any case, I am assuming I have an EGO battery, and if that is so, it still should not have died within 2 months as I have not charged it more than 70 times

I also do not know anything about "wicking potential, ohm's law, fluid dynamics, pressure equalization, amp demand, response time, frak, or harmonic wave balancing" I simply wanted to know what the expected lifespan of the Kangertech battery I am using is, or why all of a sudden I am getting weak productions. Hopefully it is not rocket science. I think the best thing for me to do is to try a different battery, and see what kind of production I get. If it is the same, then I know the issue is in a different part of the e-cig.
 
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Katya

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liquid tends to get down in the 510 threadwell, and down in the middle is the centerpin, which is insulated around by some insulating material, which with persistent wetness from the liquid, tends to degrade over time.

Anything is possible, but I've had many eGo-style batteries and this has never, ever happened. The eGo-class manual batteries are sealed properly and even with leaks from toppers nothing happens to them. Only old, automatic batteries had that problem.

The only point of entry into the eGo-class battery is around the fire button--that space is not sealed and if the juice somehow were to get there, that would cause a problem.
 

Katya

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HI Katya, thanks for the reply. No I do not have a multi-meter handy. I can borrow one tomorrow though. What output should I be hoping to get? (also where do I attach teh nodes)?

"A vaper without a multimeter is like a doctor without a stethoscope."
-Switched

Buy a multimeter. Any digital multimeter will do, you don't need a Fluke! You can get a good one for $15-25 from Sears, Lowe's or on the Amazon. You need your multimeter to check the resistance of your atomizers and/or voltage of your battery.

Connect the black test lead to the jack marked "Common" or "-"; connect the red test lead to the jack marked with the Ω (Ohm symbol) or letter "R" near it.

To check the resistance of your atomizers:

1. Turn your multimeter on and select the lowest Ohms setting, usually 200Ω.

2. Look at the display; the left side of the screen should display number 1.

3. First, test the resistance of your leads. Touch to two leads together, firmly, and wait for numbers to stabilize. On the right side of the screen, you should see a number between 0.0 and 0.4, or so. This is the resistance of your leads. Remember that number.

4. Now, to test your atty. Position your carto firmly on your desk; you don't want it to slip and slide all over the place. Touch one lead to the hole in the center of the atty and the other lead to the threads. Again read the display after the numbers have stabilized.

5. Subtract the resistance of your leads (#3) from the resistance of your atty(#4). This is the resistance of your atomizer.

This process takes some getting used to. Steady hand helps. Just keep practicing and you'll figure it out.

There are many tutorials on Youtube--watch them if you're a visual learner:

I like this one by GeekGirlVaper:



If you only want to check the resistance of your atomizers (or are going to build your own coils), you may want to consider buying this Atomizer and Cartomizer Ohm Meter--a very nifty, albeit single use, device:

1342887452113-981768337.jpeg
 

Katya

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As for the authenticity of the product, I have no way of surmizing that with my limited knowledge of the product. Someone else mentioned "batteries in this class aren't made for low resistance devices. The lower coil resistance you run on them the more damage you do to their life span. They aren't high drain batteries in those shiny metal tubes and even 1.8 ohm Kanger coils will have an impact on life span. Use 2.0 ohm devices or higher if you want to prolong their life span" I am using 1.5 ohm coils, not sure if that information helps anyone, however it should be noted again that I have only owned this kit for 2 months,

I do not know about this device that I have if it is a "low resistance device" . As a relatively new user, I also do not know what an EGO is, or a regulated mod for that matter.

I also do not know anything about "wicking potential, ohm's law, fluid dynamics, pressure equalization, amp demand, response time, frak, or harmonic wave balancing" I simply wanted to know what the expected lifespan of the Kangertech battery I am using is, or why all of a sudden I am getting weak productions. Hopefully it is not rocket science. I think the best thing for me to do is to try a different battery, and see what kind of production I get. If it is the same, then I know the issue is in a different part of the e-cig.

Most Kanger products nowadays come in a box with a scratch verification code--you can check if the product you purchased is authentic on Kangertech website. I'm not sure if that applies to their batteries though--I haven't bought any lately. You should contact your vendor and at least ask a few questions. But it's out of warranty now, so that won't help you much.

Is your battery a passthrough? I take it it's not a variable voltage device and probably outputs 3.7v (unregulated). Your battery should come off the charger reading 4.2 volts or so,

Don't worry too much about all this information thrown at you on this thread. You do have a simple battery with a set voltage (3.7v), so I'd recommend an atty 1.8-2.4Ω for best performance; 1.5Ω is doable, but may be a bit too low and will drain your battery quickly.

If your battery were a regulated eGo-style (3.3v), then I'd recommend a 1.5Ω atty.

Good luck!
 

glointhedark

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Dumb question. Have you tried wiggling the center pin on the battery up just a smidge? My daughter was having problems with one of her Evods a few weeks ago. Her battery was showing as fully charged by the light on the charger, but she was getting little to no vapor, even with a brand new, straight out of the box, coil. I used a yarn needle to raise the center pin a bit, and now the battery is working just fine.
 

take5

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Nov 17, 2014
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Is your battery a passthrough? I take it it's not a variable voltage device and probably outputs 3.7v (unregulated). Your battery should come off the charger reading 4.2 volts or so,

Don't worry too much about all this information thrown at you on this thread. You do have a simple battery with a set voltage (3.7v), so I'd recommend an atty 1.8-2.4Ω for best performance; 1.5Ω is doable, but may be a bit too low and will drain your battery quickly.

If your battery were a regulated eGo-style (3.3v), then I'd recommend a 1.5Ω atty.

Good luck!

I dont know about my battery. Really the thought of me having to go get a voltage meter, and learn about resistance is to tech for me right now. I jsut want to vape lol. I really appreciate the information, but I think it's a bit too technical for me at this point. I will simply go to the shop and test mine versus another brand new one. If the production is different I know its the battery, and if it is the battery, then I can take that up with the retailer as it is only 2 months old.
 
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