* battery power on mech mod? IMR 18350 18490 18500 18650 ?

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zhentipede

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btw off cigs since feb 2013 =)

1]how would i know if my battery is close to 3.2 v or less?

2]without using a volt meter?

3]or do i need to use some kind of fuse so battery don't over discharge?

4] is the fuse only for overheat protection?

5]is there any danger on using my mech mod until battery dies out/ totally not firing...?

IMG_5327.jpgcurrently i am using stingray bridgeless 1.5 ohm atty that workd great but using it sparingly coz i don't wanna blow up lmao.... 6] should i even be worried? :blink:


using AW imr & Efest imr on K100 telescoping mech mod

thanks in advance:vapor:


i wanna get into rda soon.:toast:... thou i have tried genesis style but not for me so far...:glare:
 

WarHawk-AVG

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If that is an 18650 lenght mod...you can get an 18500 battery and a kick2 and make it into a APV!

It will just stop firing when battery is at it's cuttoff voltage

Otherwise

1]how would i know if my battery is close to 3.2 v or less?
you will need a multimeter...some say the vape drops off considerably when the battery is depleted

2]without using a volt meter?
some say the vape drops off considerably when the battery is depleted

3]or do i need to use some kind of fuse so battery don't over discharge?
kick2 turns your plain mech mod into a APV

4] is the fuse only for overheat protection?
Fuse is for short protection...

5]is there any danger on using my mech mod until battery dies out/ totally not firing...?
Yes if you drain Li Ion below 3.2vdc it might not charge safely
 

EtherMagic

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Very simply question. Get yourself a Tank-O-Meter. It tells you the exact voltage during your vaping. They are out of stock here, but you can put yourself on a waiting list...

Here... The Tankometer


If you really need one they are instock here... http://www...........co.uk/Tankometer/cat705284_1285820.aspx

There are other places that have them instock aswell, they are all over-seas though. Do a google search, maybe you'll get luckier then me and find one in the states.


Also, I highly recommend the Sony US18650VTC3, it puts out a whopping 30amps. Here is a Video on the Sony Batt and this Vid also shows off the Tank-O-Meter aswell... http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...amp-battery-vs-panasonic-2250-cgr18650ch.html

Enjoy :)


EM
 
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WattWick

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You'll want to change batteries long before they are even close to maximum discharge voltage. You can tell from how they vape. 3.2v sounds high to me. Ordinary li-ion cells are usually said to go down to 2.7v. AW IMRs are said to handle down to 2.5v safely. Can't see why other IMR batteries should differ. Anyhow... you are likely to find yourself swapping batteries before they even get to 3.2v. It's almost automatic. "Hey this don't vape very well." --> swap battery. You don't need a volt meter to tell you very little liquid is getting boiled.

The only concern you should have about low voltage is if the button gets stuck in firing position and keeps draining the battery beyond the point of no return.
 

Vaslovik

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Yeah, you can't get it anywhere, it's out of stock everywhere, and the link to Delaware Vapor will not work either, because they won't let you check out or even put it in your cart until you select the color, and when you click on that choice menu there ARE NO COLORS TO CHOOSE! I just tried it several times, and it's bogus.
 
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Mr.Mann

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Yeah, you can't get it anywhere, it's out of stock everywhere, and the link to Delaware Vapor will not work either, because they won't let you check out or even put it in your cart until you select the color, and when you click on that choice menu there ARE NO COLORS TO CHOOSE! I just tried it several times, and it's bogus.

Mech mods are so damn popular right now (and likely from this point on) that those more-user-friendly devices will remain hard-to-get. It sucks, but the next step would be a higher investment, albeit an upgrade.
 

EtherMagic

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Vaslovik

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All over seas, but if your desperate..


In stock here...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo.........co.uk/Tankometer/cat705284_1285820.aspx

Instock here..

Tankometer Voltage Indicator


In stock here. 16 left

TankOmeter - Voltage device


In stock

The Tankometer - CIGATEC


In stock here..

Tankometer Voltage Indicator


They seriously need to ship more of these out to the US of A, they obviously dont seem to be selling much in Europe!

Yes, the Tankometer is a nice looking unit, and I might have to pop for one, because the American counterpart is impossible to get, unless you want to pay $70 for it on Ebay. They want 22 euros for it over there which is $29.71 USD, so if you want that device you will get screwed for it either way. It's dirt cheap to make, about $10, so I hope someone in the US starts making them up and not selling them in bulk to Ebay resellers.
 

Vaslovik

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Mech mods are so damn popular right now (and likely from this point on) that those more-user-friendly devices will remain hard-to-get. It sucks, but the next step would be a higher investment, albeit an upgrade.

I'm not sure how one could possibly upgrade from a mech, unless it's to get a better mech.
 

ClippinWings

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If that is an 18650 lenght mod...you can get an 18500 battery and a kick2 and make it into a APV!

It will just stop firing when battery is at it's cuttoff voltage

Otherwise

1]how would i know if my battery is close to 3.2 v or less?
you will need a multimeter...some say the vape drops off considerably when the battery is depleted

It does... In fact I usually decide it's time to swap out my batteries at around 3.7v (I test my batteries before they go on the charger)...

In addition MANY batteries, like the NCR18650PD for instance, can be drained to 2.5 safely... though the vape would be below usable levels long before that.

2]without using a volt meter?
some say the vape drops off considerably when the battery is depleted

By "some" I think he means "anyone who has ever used a mech"

3]or do i need to use some kind of fuse so battery don't over discharge?
kick2 turns your plain mech mod into a APV

It also gimps your Mech by removing it's ability to go to Sub-Ohm coils and introducing sources of possible electronic failure... why bother getting a mech if you don't plan to use it?

4] is the fuse only for overheat protection?
Fuse is for short protection...

Agreed.

But it serves almost no purpose in a mech... especially in a mech with a hot spring and safe chemistry batteries... a fuse is just another bit of electronics that can(is designed to) fail.

5]is there any danger on using my mech mod until battery dies out/ totally not firing...?
Yes if you drain Li Ion below 3.2vdc it might not charge safely

Yes... but you won't

Long before you reach flat dead... it will be a noticeably weak vape.. very noticeably.
 
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zhentipede

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thanks for all the replies =) aight i finally made my first of many coils... pretty decent! doing 2 ohmns and above for now and using it on a regulated mod 4.5 - 5 - 6volts and it really rocks! playing safe for now peace of mind .... single coil for now on igo w 30 kanthal .... when i feel confident of my build i will test the waters of below 1 ohm with the mech...

thanks again!
 

zhentipede

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i didn't mind paying a bit more for regulated and safer mod like provari, evic and the like.. I felt a decent cheap mech will do just fine for me=) lovin' my $25 dollar K100 with 18490 batt tbh those mech mods that are pricier looks so damn nice practically drool over them, i still don't feel good paying high price for them ..... boils down to i use the evic for testing volts and ohms then vape it on good old provari...



I'm not sure how one could possibly upgrade from a mech, unless it's to get a better mech.
 

Vaslovik

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i didn't mind paying a bit more for regulated and safer mod like provari, evic and the like.. I felt a decent cheap mech will do just fine for me=) lovin' my $25 dollar K100 with 18490 batt tbh those mech mods that are pricier looks so damn nice practically drool over them, i still don't feel good paying high price for them ..... boils down to i use the evic for testing volts and ohms then vape it on good old provari...

Most people who move past eGo rigs and Protank/Spinner rigs seem to go with regulated mods when they get into mods. It's your call. Mechs are another thing entirely. Your volts are nailed down and your control is how you build your atomizer's wick and coil, which, if you are practical, is in an RBA or RDA. Working it from that end is the difference between mech users and regulated mod users.

If you find yourself attracted to the idea of a mech, know what it's about, and not just how jazzy it looks. Have a multimeter or another ohms checking device and learn how to use it. Buy the right batteries and know why you have them. Yes, you can play safe with a Provari, or Vamo, and maybe you should, but if you are so inclined to learn about mechs and RBA's and set one up right, having done your homework, do the homework, watch the videos, learn what you are doing first, and enjoy.

If you are thinking mech, in practical terms, you are talking RBA/RDA in the end.
 
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WarHawk-AVG

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You'll want to change batteries long before they are even close to maximum discharge voltage. You can tell from how they vape. 3.2v sounds high to me. Ordinary li-ion cells are usually said to go down to 2.7v. AW IMRs are said to handle down to 2.5v safely. Can't see why other IMR batteries should differ. Anyhow... you are likely to find yourself swapping batteries before they even get to 3.2v. It's almost automatic. "Hey this don't vape very well." --> swap battery. You don't need a volt meter to tell you very little liquid is getting boiled.

The only concern you should have about low voltage is if the button gets stuck in firing position and keeps draining the battery beyond the point of no return.
The 3.2vdc cutoff is the "let's cut it of WAAAAY before there could even be a problem so we don't get sued into oblivion" safety for manufacturers... (is it possible to run em lower...sure...but the lawyers are circling ;)
 

EtherMagic

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I found the Tank-O-Meter in the USA for Pre-Order and being shipped on October 3rd. They also claim to have an Exclusive on U.S distributing. Here's the description...

We are proud to present the ORIGINAL TANKOMETER! VAPEHAPPY now is the exclusive US online distributor! We will ship the TANKOMETER Priority Mail (1-3 Days delivered to anywhere in the USA) on October 3rd, 2013 (estimated shipping date).

I just Pre-Ordered one, im not waiting until they sell-out anymore, getting sick of being on the loosing end of these gadgets! :)

bevapehappy.com/shop/exclusive-online-preorder-tankometer-ships-oct-3rd-1-3-day-priority-usps/
 
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WarHawk-AVG

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I found the Tank-O-Meter in the USA for Pre-Order and being shipped on October 3rd. They also claim to have an Exclusive on U.S distributing. Here's the description...

We are proud to present the ORIGINAL TANKOMETER! VAPEHAPPY now is the exclusive US online distributor! We will ship the TANKOMETER Priority Mail (1-3 Days delivered to anywhere in the USA) on October 3rd, 2013 (estimated shipping date).

I just Pre-Ordered one, im not waiting until they sell-out anymore, getting sick of being on the loosing end of these gadgets! :)

bevapehappy.com/shop/exclusive-online-preorder-tankometer-ships-oct-3rd-1-3-day-priority-usps/
Could have built your own

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo.../435871-diy-battery-voltage-tank-o-meter.html
 

EtherMagic

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^^^ I know, I seen a 100 of those while on my search, and its funny because I was close to buying that $2 meter just 20-min ago on Ebay. I skipped all they trouble the second I found the Pre-Order. $30 for me is worth not having to build the thing, waste a Carto tank, buy another Multimeter (literally just included the only one I owned with a Mod I sold), and possibly wait longer for China shipping etc. That is all to much going on for me at once. It's piece of mind knowing all I have to do is open a package and screw a ready to go volt meter on to my mod.
 
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