I recently ordered two Chucks from Thag Built. The Thag Built vendor's sub-forum has a battery info thread, but I couldn't find my answer there, so I thought I might be able to find an expert here that could give me some ideas. My lil Chuck is set-up to vape at 3.7V, and I have no problems with it. The batteries I use are 18350 Ultrafire 1200mAh 3.7V. The Big Chuck I ordered I set-up to vape at 6V. For that one I use two 16340 (RCR123) Ultrafire 880mAH 3.0V. My troubles is with my Big Chuck, but I have no idea what the actual problem is. At first I loaded the two 3.0V batteries, pushed the button and nothing happened. My first thought was the batteries weren't working right, because Thag Built tests all the Chucks before they are shipped. To test the batteries I loaded them one at a time into the lil Chuck, but they worked fine. That left me to believe the Big Chuck was the problem. To test it, I loaded both of my 3.7V batteries into the Chuck and it worked fine. But, I don't want to vape at 7.4V, I only want to vape at 6V. After thinking about it for a bit, I decided the diameter difference in the batteries must be the problem. The 3.0V batteries have a smaller diameter, therefore they slip around more and possibly don't make a good connection. To fix this, I wrapped a few layers of electrical tape around the center of the batteries until they fit snug in the Chuck. Once again nothing happens when I push the button. All the batteries continue to work in the lil Chuck, but the 3.0V won't work in the Bic Chuck. I emailed the manufacturer and he recommended me coming here for help. I am at a loss, so any suggestions would be appreciated.
Battery question on a Chuck with a 510 connector
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ummm, are those 3v batteries protected? If so, there is a very good chance that the 510 atomizer at 2.2 ohms is drawing too much current and tripping the protection circuit. That would be my guess. If that's what's happening you need an atomizer that has a higher resistance which will lower the current draw and keep it below the protection circuit trip point. An 801 should be about 3.2 ohms which would work. A KR808D cartridge should be about 2.8 ohms and might work... or any of the HV atomizers.
Thanks for the info Quick1. The batteries are protected, but I'm not sure if that is the problem. From what I understand about the protection circuit, which isn't much, if it is tripped, it must be reset before the battery will work again. The reason I don't think the protection circuit has been tripped is because I have put the batteries in the Big Chuck, nothing happened, so I placed them immediately into the Lil Chuck and they worked fine. But like I said, I don't understand very much about the batteries. So, for all I know I am resetting the circuit by putting them in the Lil Chuck.
I think the circuit resets once you remove the current draw for a little bit (taking your finger off the button).
You did try putting the atomizer from the big chuck on the little chuck right? It's possible the 510 on the big chuck is bad or just happened to burn out instantly the first time you tried it.
You did try putting the atomizer from the big chuck on the little chuck right? It's possible the 510 on the big chuck is bad or just happened to burn out instantly the first time you tried it.
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BatteryJunction.com Batteries, Battery Chargers, Flashlights, Solar Products & more!Yes, Quick, I tried changing the attys around from one to the other too. But still had the same results.
Thanks for the suggestion CTJ, but I would honestly like to figure out what the problem is before I invest more money only to find out that it had nothing to do with the batts in the first place. My luck, it's something minor that I am overlooking.
Thanks for the suggestion CTJ, but I would honestly like to figure out what the problem is before I invest more money only to find out that it had nothing to do with the batts in the first place. My luck, it's something minor that I am overlooking.
If you have a volt meter, remove the atty and check the voltage at the atty connector with the button pressed (careful not to short from center to the threads with the probe). Not conclusive, but if you have voltage at the connector and the atty works in the little chuck then it's probable that you're tripping the batterys' protection circuit
Is it possible the mAh rating of the batteries isn't sufficient to make the big Chuck work properly? The 16340s (2) I am using are rated at 880mAh each. The 18350s (2) are rated at 1200mAh. I don't know what it takes to operate the Big Chuck or even if it is different between the two Chucks, but since there is such a difference I was wondering if that had anything to do with it.
No. "mAh" is a measure of capacity -- how much juice the battery holds. Not how fast it can deliver whatever it holds. The "h" part is hours so it's a measure over time.
Instantaneous current is what trips the protection circuit.
Let's say your battery has a rating of 500 mAh. That would be 500 millamps hours. If you draw a 500 millamp (0.5 amp) current from the battery it would go from fully charged to drained in 1 hour. Also referred to as "C" or "1C". If you were to draw a current of 1 amp from the same battery it would go from fully charge to drained in 1/2 hour and you would be discharging the battery at 2C.
Every battery has (or should have) a Max Discharge rate and a Max charge rate. Expressed in C or current. For our example we might say our 500 mAh battery has a max discharge rate of 2C or 1 Amp. The battery is rated to supply a maximum current of 1 amp. The max discharge rate is independent of the capacity. You can have a 2000 mAh battery that also has a max discharge rate of 1 Amp or .5C (I don't think there are any but I picked bad numbers for the example -- actually that 750mah lifepo4 has a max discharge rate of 550ma?)
Anyway, the protection circuit will be set to trip at or slightly above the max discharge rate. Bottom line is that you can't compare 880mAh to 1200mAh and ask the question if one can power the device and the other can't. The 880mAh battery might have a max discharge rate of 10C (at which it would drain itself in a minute or so) while the 1200mAh might have a max discharge rate of .5C and the 880mAh battery could power a device that the 1200mAh could not.
What you want to look at is the Max Discharge rate. The protection circuit should not trip below the Max Discharge rate. If you're drawing a current above the max discharge rate then the protection circuit could be a factor.
Instantaneous current is what trips the protection circuit.
Let's say your battery has a rating of 500 mAh. That would be 500 millamps hours. If you draw a 500 millamp (0.5 amp) current from the battery it would go from fully charged to drained in 1 hour. Also referred to as "C" or "1C". If you were to draw a current of 1 amp from the same battery it would go from fully charge to drained in 1/2 hour and you would be discharging the battery at 2C.
Every battery has (or should have) a Max Discharge rate and a Max charge rate. Expressed in C or current. For our example we might say our 500 mAh battery has a max discharge rate of 2C or 1 Amp. The battery is rated to supply a maximum current of 1 amp. The max discharge rate is independent of the capacity. You can have a 2000 mAh battery that also has a max discharge rate of 1 Amp or .5C (I don't think there are any but I picked bad numbers for the example -- actually that 750mah lifepo4 has a max discharge rate of 550ma?)
Anyway, the protection circuit will be set to trip at or slightly above the max discharge rate. Bottom line is that you can't compare 880mAh to 1200mAh and ask the question if one can power the device and the other can't. The 880mAh battery might have a max discharge rate of 10C (at which it would drain itself in a minute or so) while the 1200mAh might have a max discharge rate of .5C and the 880mAh battery could power a device that the 1200mAh could not.
What you want to look at is the Max Discharge rate. The protection circuit should not trip below the Max Discharge rate. If you're drawing a current above the max discharge rate then the protection circuit could be a factor.
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Check the ohms on the 510 you're using. Just for completeness. Should measure ~2.2 ohms if it's a Joye or ~2.4 for the other kind.
Note that at 6.68v with a 2.2 ohm resistance you will be drawing 3 Amps of current...
Note that at 6.68v with a 2.2 ohm resistance you will be drawing 3 Amps of current...
Same thing as the connector side you just checked volts on. Set the multimeter to Ohms, red probe center and black probe threads.
If the Ohms are reasonable then:
You know the batteries are charged and connected
You know that the button works and you're getting voltage to the connector
You know that the atomizer has continuity though it and isn't burnt out.
About the only thing left is that the atomizer is not making an electrical connection when screwed into the connector (like the center post not making contact -- this is pretty unlikely I think) OR when you push the button the 3A current draw is tripping the protection circuit in a battery and breaking the connection.
About the only thing I can think of trying next, without buying something like a higher resistance atomizer (and an adapter if it's not a 510 HV), would be to run each of the batteries down in the little chuck to maybe under 3v (like 2.5 to 2.7 maybe) and try it again. Let's say you run both batteries down to 2.7v. That would be 5.4v stacked and you'd be drawing ~2.5 Amps through a 2.2 ohm resistance. That might well get you under the protection circuit trip point and you would be pretty sure that's your problem.
If you try this, use your volt meter and get both batteries to as close to the same voltage as possible before stacking them in the big chuck. Warning: you may lose concentration following the massive amount of chain vaping you will have just done to run down 2 batteries in your little chuck
If the Ohms are reasonable then:
You know the batteries are charged and connected
You know that the button works and you're getting voltage to the connector
You know that the atomizer has continuity though it and isn't burnt out.
About the only thing left is that the atomizer is not making an electrical connection when screwed into the connector (like the center post not making contact -- this is pretty unlikely I think) OR when you push the button the 3A current draw is tripping the protection circuit in a battery and breaking the connection.
About the only thing I can think of trying next, without buying something like a higher resistance atomizer (and an adapter if it's not a 510 HV), would be to run each of the batteries down in the little chuck to maybe under 3v (like 2.5 to 2.7 maybe) and try it again. Let's say you run both batteries down to 2.7v. That would be 5.4v stacked and you'd be drawing ~2.5 Amps through a 2.2 ohm resistance. That might well get you under the protection circuit trip point and you would be pretty sure that's your problem.
If you try this, use your volt meter and get both batteries to as close to the same voltage as possible before stacking them in the big chuck. Warning: you may lose concentration following the massive amount of chain vaping you will have just done to run down 2 batteries in your little chuck
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Set the meter to Ohm like in the picture and move the positive lead from the V to the O symbol input.
Then test the atty with the leads like this....
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