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I know some have used a finishing washer as a drip well. In mv's poorlin thread he linked this: Amazon.com: #12 Countersunk Finish Washers Steel Nickel Plated 100 Pack: Home Improvement
.... . The catch cup para used is what im using on my bottom feeder that im building . I thought i found something nobody else has used before .Beat me to it . As for finishing washers ,why does everyone use #12 ? The #14 washers are a perfect fit for a 510 batt connector . The #12 is too small and needs to be drilled out .
#12 works perfect for the extended screw on connectors. #14 is good for the flush mount (epoxy type) connectors, but you wont be able to screw on a tank if you do this. Best way is to use a #12 finish washer and a threaded extended connector with a nut, like this eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Para's idea is a nice one, but you need to be aware of the fact that juice reacts with brass and turns green! Thats why I decided to use nickel plated finish washers.
Para's idea is a nice one, but you need to be aware of the fact that juice reacts with brass and turns green! Thats why I decided to use nickel plated finish washers.
Those are the 510 shorty battery connectors madvapes sell for 7 bucks right ? I see what you mean . If you need to fit a tank though you can still use a 14 washer if you just use a v2 510 to 510 adaptor with a flush epoxy connector . This would let you have the larger 14 cup too .Im thinking that would be the same as the 12 with the screw on connector .
V2 510 Shorty Extension
Btw ,is the fitting para used really going to be a problem ? I think the reo woodvil also uses a brass cup .
The #14 is too large for the AA battery boxes that many folks use.
'Beauty rings', that's too funny.
A note about those ext. connectors, I bought them. The insulators are the best I've seen, HOWEVER... the treads suck_, I've stripped everyone of them. Threading on connector does not have enough height.
I was thinking of buying them too . I have been using the 510510 adaptors from madvapes on top of the epoxy 510 connector and they work great .I sometimes get some epoxy ones where boges thread on loosely and the 510510 fixes the problem .
Does anyone sells #12 and #14 in Stainless in small quantities? Like 6 of each.
juice turns green when it comes in contact with brass? I have seen 1/2 in sweat adapters available online in stainless steel however they are more expensive (price + shipping is in that factor) and they are few and far between.
A red dirt REOnaut!!
A red dirt REOnaut!!
The brass turns green. It reacts when juice touches it for some reason. As for the threads not being long enough, it depends on how thick your mod box is. I mod the finish washers before using them. I take a large side flat punch, and I flatten out the middle of the washer so the 510 connector sits straight on it. Doing this also makes the inside of the finish washer larger so it can hold more juice. If you dont do this, it will be very hard to thread on the 510 connector since the threads arent very long. Ill try to post a pic showing the before and after.
I'd like to see a pic of this mv. Also, do you have a part number for the tool you are using?
I want a $1 royalty for every mod you sell mamu 
LOL, J/K!!!
Left washer is how it comes stock, right washer is after the MV special pounding
Here is the punch I use, but I use the .... end (the fatter end)
Takes some practice to get it right, but you end up with a atty connector that sits very straight and with almost 100% of the threads being usable.
Sorry, dont have any idea where I got the punch from, but it measures 11.84mm on the .... end. Also, these are nickel plated steel washers, not brass. I imagine brass would be way easier to do using this punch.
LOL, J/K!!!Left washer is how it comes stock, right washer is after the MV special pounding
Here is the punch I use, but I use the .... end (the fatter end)
Takes some practice to get it right, but you end up with a atty connector that sits very straight and with almost 100% of the threads being usable.
Sorry, dont have any idea where I got the punch from, but it measures 11.84mm on the .... end. Also, these are nickel plated steel washers, not brass. I imagine brass would be way easier to do using this punch.
Mv, nice job with the punch, man this needed pics to understand
The brass aren't more than plated either, so just as easy. Are you implying the real secret to getting these just right is to do it on a glass desk?
The brass aren't more than plated either, so just as easy. Are you implying the real secret to getting these just right is to do it on a glass desk?
Question ,why does the reo woodville have a brass drip cup if it turns green .I havent heard anybody complain about it on the reo . Not saying that brass doesnt turn green but there are a few high end mods using brass parts .Do they use a special coating or something ?
Mv, nice job with the punch, man this needed pics to understand
The brass aren't more than plated either, so just as easy. Are you implying the real secret to getting these just right is to do it on a glass desk?
LOL, please dont do it on glass! LOL!!! Pick a straight and sturdy surface.
Welcome mamu!
I wouldn't worry about it. Anyone who has used a bottom feeder with atties always has liquid in contact with the brass of the atty itself. You are basically filling up the brass base first, then sucking it up, right?
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