Bellus leaking
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Try thinning/tapering the tails and have them end halfway down the channels.
That's not gospel... just a ballpark of where things should be working acceptably.
If it's really "leaking", take it apart and closely inspect all the seals/O-rings. Perhaps the top fill gasket isn't sealing to provide the partial vacuum needed. If it's leaking at one of the glass/metal joints, that's obviously a seal/O-ring.
Mine doesn't "leak", but it's by far the "wetest" tank I have. Don't know why, but it's just a condensation magnet.
That's not gospel... just a ballpark of where things should be working acceptably.
If it's really "leaking", take it apart and closely inspect all the seals/O-rings. Perhaps the top fill gasket isn't sealing to provide the partial vacuum needed. If it's leaking at one of the glass/metal joints, that's obviously a seal/O-ring.
Mine doesn't "leak", but it's by far the "wetest" tank I have. Don't know why, but it's just a condensation magnet.
Fixed it just fill it from the bottom not a ml of leakage nowTry thinning/tapering the tails and have them end halfway down the channels.
That's not gospel... just a ballpark of where things should be working acceptably.
If it's really "leaking", take it apart and closely inspect all the seals/O-rings. Perhaps the top fill gasket isn't sealing to provide the partial vacuum needed. If it's leaking at one of the glass/metal joints, that's obviously a seal/O-ring.
Mine doesn't "leak", but it's by far the "wetest" tank I have. Don't know why, but it's just a condensation magnet.
Yeah... that's not acceptable.
Top-fill is such a game changer. Going forward, it might quickly become a deal breaker for me.
If it's not the top gasket or your wicking, try the trick of flipping it over before turning the top cap the last quarter or half turn. Haven't needed it, but others swear by it.
Top-fill is such a game changer. Going forward, it might quickly become a deal breaker for me.
If it's not the top gasket or your wicking, try the trick of flipping it over before turning the top cap the last quarter or half turn. Haven't needed it, but others swear by it.
What do you think about the positioning of the coils should they be so close to the air holes that they a act as a leak proof?
No, I shouldn't think so.
I've only just started playing and building on mine, but I'll throw out a couple things, some I've been reading, some are just logic and experience.
First, a lot of folk are having a better experience keeping the coil(s) up so the airflow hits the lower half. Makes sense, bottom flow RDAs generally produce better flavor as the air flows up over the entire coil.
For positioning, there's damn little enough room in there to begin with. Having the coil nearer the curvature of the outer wall means fewer wraps before you risk shorting out.
*snipped a bunch that, on consideration, probably doesn't apply to this tank design.*
I've only just started playing and building on mine, but I'll throw out a couple things, some I've been reading, some are just logic and experience.
First, a lot of folk are having a better experience keeping the coil(s) up so the airflow hits the lower half. Makes sense, bottom flow RDAs generally produce better flavor as the air flows up over the entire coil.
For positioning, there's damn little enough room in there to begin with. Having the coil nearer the curvature of the outer wall means fewer wraps before you risk shorting out.
*snipped a bunch that, on consideration, probably doesn't apply to this tank design.*
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Ok, I don't want to take mine apart to check this but what I snipped had to do with a comparison to a leaking issue with bottom airflow RDAs.
Basically... if you let your wicks EVER touch the air hole channel below the coil in those, surface tension and then capillary action will produce a slow steady stream of juice out the airflow slots.
I'm trying to picture the Bellus interior design, and wondering if you've managed to do something similar. As in... don't build so close to the outer wall that the wicks touch it.
Basically... if you let your wicks EVER touch the air hole channel below the coil in those, surface tension and then capillary action will produce a slow steady stream of juice out the airflow slots.
I'm trying to picture the Bellus interior design, and wondering if you've managed to do something similar. As in... don't build so close to the outer wall that the wicks touch it.
After getting it to work right I'd rather not open it up at the moment.
But a quick scan of the big Bellus thread should show plenty of build pics by folks who, to be honest, know a hell of a lot more about RTAs than I do.
Right now I've just got a simple 26g 2mm ID single in it. Came in pretty high around 0.8, may have used 28g.
I bought it for the single coil conversion insert, and I'm trying a 2mm coil because I couldn't get a 2.5 to sit right without shorting. Others manage it but I was too lazy/frustrated to troubleshoot it after awhile. Should probably hunt down a 2.2 or 2.3mm bit/mandrel just for this thing.
For me... the wicking really was less trouble than the lack of space.
But 4 or 5 of my RDAs are bottom airflow, so I'm always aware of that potential wick/leak issue.
If that's even possible here, not sure. Lots more to try with this one, just been too busy this week to play with it much.
But a quick scan of the big Bellus thread should show plenty of build pics by folks who, to be honest, know a hell of a lot more about RTAs than I do.
Right now I've just got a simple 26g 2mm ID single in it. Came in pretty high around 0.8, may have used 28g.
I bought it for the single coil conversion insert, and I'm trying a 2mm coil because I couldn't get a 2.5 to sit right without shorting. Others manage it but I was too lazy/frustrated to troubleshoot it after awhile. Should probably hunt down a 2.2 or 2.3mm bit/mandrel just for this thing.
For me... the wicking really was less trouble than the lack of space.
But 4 or 5 of my RDAs are bottom airflow, so I'm always aware of that potential wick/leak issue.
If that's even possible here, not sure. Lots more to try with this one, just been too busy this week to play with it much.
The bottom around the bell is just press fitted onto the lower deck if that machining is off by a hair it will leak up and around your the whole bell housing. Its really a great design implemented wrong IMO. There's quite a few of these bottom fed devices with that same issue and problems. The best bottom fed devices have threading or an oring seal. On very hot days there's absolutely none of them that will not leak, the better builds if ever so slightly they do/will..
A way I found to stop the leaking was to have the airholes closed up. Fill it up and then once u close the cap off, airholes still closed ,turn it upside down n open the airholes fully n give it bout 10secs or so and turn back it around.
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